Popcorn Lantana

Recently I visited the JC Raulston Arboretum in North Carolina and came across popcorn lantana (Lantana trifolia). This brought back memories. Years ago, Adrian Higgins, former Washington Post garden writer, wrote about this plant after he saw it at Green Spring Gardens in Alexandria, VA. I remember thinking at the time, what a unique plant!

Popcorn lantana is cousin to Lantana camara, the other lantana that is sold at local garden centers in the beginning of the summer. Treated as an annual, the flower colors of Lantana camara are “warm” — red, orange, or yellow. Popcorn lantana has lavender flowers with a random spot of yellow. Although the flowers are pretty, popcorn lantana is named for its “popcorn” like fruit. The flowers bloom along a 3-inch spike, first flowering at the bottom. After they bloom, they produce a small spherical fruit that looks like a purple metallic bead. Eventually, there are spikes of glossy purple beads.

These are full sun, drought resistant plants that prefer well drained soil. Butterflies love the flowers, and popcorns appear from late summer to fall. The entire plant can reach about 3 feet tall and wide. Like the other lantana plants, though, these are tender perennials, hardy to zone 10, so they will not survive our winters.

I looked online for a seed source but could not find any. I did find one plant source but since winter is approaching, I may purchase the plant next spring. If you know of a seed or plant source, please share in the comments section.

 

Save Your Geraniums for Next Year

Red geraniums in a large container in May

When my mother lived in Vienna, Virginia, she grew red geraniums in large containers by the front door. Every fall she would pull the plants out of the containers, knock off the excess soil, and place the plants on a shelf in the basement. There was one small window allowing very little light. The following summer, she would pot these up again outside and these plants would come back to life. She did this because her mother, who lived in Wisconsin, also saved geraniums in the fall. However, her mother had a sunny foyer so she would cut her plants back, repot them in smaller containers, and treat them as small indoor plants inside. Both methods worked well. Geraniums can take quite a bit of dryness which is what makes them ideal for overwintering.

If you are growing geraniums consider saving them for next year. Not everyone has a sunny foyer but most people in this area have a basement. For the basement method, this month, before frost, lift the plant out of the container. Shake the soil off and cut off diseased parts and the flowers. Let the plant dry for a few days in the shade so that excess moisture will evaporate. Then place the plant in a large paper bag and close with a binder clip.  Store the bag in the coolest place in the basement.

Periodically, check the plant to see if it is getting too dry or, conversely, moldy. If moldy, just cut and throw away those parts.  If too dry, soak the roots in water for a few hours and then dry and put back in the bag. Eventually, the foliage will die off but that is okay.  In the beginning of April, put the plant in a small container with drainage holes. It may look dead but water, warmth, and light should bring it back to life. Water the plant so water runs out of the drainage holes. Place the container in a room where it is warmer and lighter than the basement. This will trigger the plant to leaf out again. After the average last frost date (Mother’s Day in Virginia), put the container outside. Put it in shade first in order for it to acclimate to the increased sunlight. Gradually, move the container to a full sun location. You can either pot up the plant into a larger, ornamental container, pot up with other plants in a large container, or even plant in your garden for the summer.

If you have geraniums, now is the time to think about saving them so you can enjoy them again next summer. This method should enable you to enjoy your geraniums for many years to come.

Pink and red geraniums in the landscape in August

Mandevilla or Dipladenia? What’s the Difference?

Dipladenia ‘White Halo’ in my garden

In past years, I have grown Mandevilla plants but this year I have a Dipladenia growing in a container. I know the name is a mouthful, they have to come up with an easier name to pronounce, let alone spell. My Dipladenia is a Flordenia type which is supposed to be more floriferous, stronger branching, and heat and drought tolerant. I have White Halo which of course has white flowers.

Both Mandevilla and Dipladenia plants are popular tropical plants. They bloom all summer long in full sun, undaunted by dry spells.  The flowers are very similar, trumpet-shaped, in a range of white, pink, reds, yellow and even peach.

But there is one distinct difference between the two.

Mandevilla with hoya-like foliage

Mandevilla is a vining plant; it climbs up to the sunlight. You purchase it with the intent to cover an arbor, pergola, or obelisk. The stems and foliage remind me of a hoya plant (in fact, they are cousins). The leaves seem larger than the Dipladenia, pointed and glossy. However, if you purchased a Mandevilla and would like to grow it as a shrub, you can just prune it.

A Dipladenia is a shrub, it will not climb up a structure. This makes it perfect for containers and hanging baskets. The foliage is smaller, more compact, and more matte than glossy. The space between nodes (joints where leaves arise) is shorter than the Mandevilla. It is more of a slow grower while a Mandevilla will grow fast to cover a structure. Although they both have trumpet-shaped flowers, to me the Dipladenia flowers appear flatter with a shallow throat.

Dipladenia with compact foliage

Both are full sun, drought tolerant with no need to deadhead (the older I get the more important this is to me). They attract pollinators and are deer and rabbit resistant.

As fall approaches, they can be kept overwinter in order to plant in the garden the following year (these are not cheap plants). There are several ways to do this depending on the space and light in your house. You can root 4 to 6-inch stem cuttings and grow them inside as houseplants. You can give your plant a good trim in the fall, up to one half of the foliage to reduce transpiration, bring the plant in and place in a sunny, cool location and water less often. Or you can cut the foliage back severely, place the plant in a cool, dark place and stop watering. Let it go dormant for the winter but check on it so it does not dry out completely.

Don’t be surprised if containers of Mandevilla and Dipladenia get mixed up at the local garden centers. Most people do not recognize the difference. Regardless, they are great investments for constant summer blooms especially when we have dry summers such as this one.

Mandevilla

Pleasantly Scented Paperwhites

Ariel

I placed my order of spring blooming bulbs with Brent and Becky’s Bulbs and expect to get them in late October. I ordered hyacinth, muscari, allium, paperwhites, tulips, and an amaryllis. In addition to the quality, part of the reason why I ordered from this family-owned bulb company in Virginia is that I wanted a better scented paperwhite than Ziva.

Ziva is the most common paperwhite that you will find in the local garden centers. Paperwhites are a type of daffodil that does not need a chilling period. The bulbs are grown indoors, usually in a glass with water and pebbles. In just 6 weeks, they bloom.

Winter Sun

But Ziva blossoms do not produce the “breath of fresh air” one imagines in the winter. Instead, you may be thinking you have a gas leak or worse — rotting meat. What causes this offensive odor?  Indole. Indole exists in trace amounts in gardenias, jasmine, and tuberose (all of which I do like). In these trace amounts, indole becomes more floral and less offensive. It is not surprising that small amounts of indole are used in perfume, such as Chanel No. 5.

However, Ziva has a higher level of indole than others. I do not care for it so I was looking for paperwhites with lower levels and thus better scents. I purchased Wintersun because I like the contrast of the dark yellow cup against the white petals. Others to try are Inball (white flowers), Ariel (white), Nir (white), and Grand Soleil d’Or (yellow with orange cup).

Grand Soleil d’Or

For a better fragrance, try growing something other than Ziva this year. They may not be available in your local garden center but they are available from specialty bulb companies.

All photos courtesy of Brent and Becky’s Bulbs.

Fall-Blooming Obedient Plant

Obedient Plant

Obedient Plant

A familiar fall bloomer in this area is obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana). Thomas Jefferson grew these natives at Monticello, and George Washington had plantings at Mt. Vernon. Philadelphia plantsman John Bartram also grew them and sold them in his catalog.

Obedient plants are “passalong” plants, easily divided and shared.  My plants came from a friend who pulled a clump from her garden several years ago. My original plant has thrived and spread via rhizomes (underground stems) but only a few feet in the same garden bed. Not too much but just enough to provide extra plants to share and abundant flowers to cut for an arrangement.

These perennials prefer moist, well-drained soils in full sun. They are great for wildlife gardens, sunny meadow gardens, and rain gardens. The flowers of these deer-resistant plants attract bumblebees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

The name “obedient” comes from the fact that if you twist the individual flowers, they stay in that new position for some time, hence they are “obedient.”

Obedient plants provide vertical interest and a wash of pink in the fall, when you least expect it.  I prefer the pink flowering variety, but there are obedient plants with white flowers (‘Alba’) and even green and white variegated leaves (‘Variegata’).

In the spring, the emerging stems are easy to identify. They are square shaped, a mint family characteristic, and they have chocolate brown, vertical strips running up and down the green stems. Being shallow-rooted, I can easily pull unwanted plants if I have to but could just as easily share with my gardening club. If unwanted growth is a concern, try ‘Miss Manners’ (white flowers) or ‘Pink Manners’ (pink flowers), both of which are known to maintain a clumping habit.

Hardy to zone 3, they are easy to grow and do not need fertilizing or deadheading. If you have friends who have these in their gardens, ask for a clump in the spring so you do not ruin the fall display. However, they are easy to find at local garden centers. Try growing this native plant in your garden for fall beauty.

Aloe Vera: Your First Aid Kit

Every May, I put my aloe plant (Aloe vera) outside on the deck to enjoy the summer sun and warmth. This succulent plant thrives and by autumn, she has produced many “pups.” The pups, small aloe vera offsets, crowd inside the small pot. When the nights cool down, I upturn the pot and gently pull apart each pup. I plant each one in its own small container of soil.  I then replant the mother and move her in to my house while I box up the pups to bring to the office. Within hours of placing the box in the office kitchen, colleagues have helped themselves to a new plant, armed with growing instructions that I have printed on strips of paper. My colleagues love free plants — it is like leaving cookies in the kitchen.

Aloe vera is a medicinal herb well known for healing burns. If you snap a leaf in two you will see a gel-like liquid. You can apply the gel to a burn on your skin, which will offer pain relief and a faster healing process. The leaves actually have three sections: a thick outer rind, a thin slimy layer of cells, and the inner gel. Just beneath the rind is a bitter yellow substance called aloin. This can cause intestinal irritation creating a laxative effect.  It is the inner gel that is used for burns, sunburns, or as a skin moisturizer. Diluted with water, this gel can be ingested to sooth intestinal irritation. Although aloe’s beneficial effects have been documented for thousands of years, it was not until U.S. researchers discovered that aloe gel could quickly heal burns caused by x-rays and ultraviolet rays in the mid-1930s that interest soared. Today, most people use aloe as an first aid kit for burns, disinfecting minor cuts, and insect stings. Researchers are still studying the plant. So far they have identified more than 75 nutrients and 200 compounds in the gel.

It is easy to grow an aloe vera plant. Give it warmth, sun, and good drainage. You can grow it indoors as a houseplant provided it gets enough light. Place it in a southern exposure window or a sun room. Or you can grow it outside in the summer. When I grow it outside, I just let the rain water it. Remember to bring it back inside before night time temperatures dip into the 40s.

This plant is easy to find at local garden centers. Or if you have a friend who has it, ask for a pup. Try growing aloe for your own personal first aid kit.

Saving Seeds from Your Garden

Blackberry lily seeds are easy to identify and save

As your plants flower and set seed and your fruit ripens on the vine, think of what you would like to save for next year. Saving seed can be easy and cost effective. In addition to saving seed to plant in your garden next year, you can give away seed packets as gifts or participate in seed swaps.

There are two methods for separating and cleaning the seed depending on the plant. Use the dry method for seeds that are in dried flowers, dried husks, or dried pods like beans, peas, grains, okra, marigolds, cone flowers, calendula, dianthus, basil, mustards, lettuce, kale, dill, fennel (any member of the carrot/dill family and the brassica/broccoli family). Use the wet method when the seeds are imbedded in the fleshy fruit, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, squash, and eggplant.

Dry Method of Saving Seeds

Usually the plant has more than one flower head, each with their own timeline of flowering and setting seeds. During the summer, when the individual flower head has dried or when most of the seeds appear to be dried, cut the seed head and put in a paper bag. Cut when the stalks are brown at least an inch down from the seed head. Label the bag with the plant name and date. Continue to cut and save this way until you are ready to separate seed from fruit.

The flowers of nasturtiums drop off when past their prime and the seeds grow and become prominent later

Some flowers, such as nasturtiums and four o’ clocks, have a single flower that blooms and drops revealing a seemingly empty calyx. Soon though a seed will grow and become more prominent, making it easy to separate and save.

Beans and peas are fleshy so you can cut when the pod has become leathery or yellow and not completely dry. Let it continue to dry off the vine on a cookie sheet until the seeds rattle in the pods. For peppers, it is important to let the fruit ripen to the last color stage (many progress from green to red). For the cool season lovers such as greens (lettuce) and brassica family members such as kale, mustard, pak choi, cabbage, and broccoli, let the plant bolt (flower). Then cut and put in a bag.

Many seeds, especially beans, are also beautiful

In the winter, when I can’t go outside and garden, I gather all my bags and sit down at the dining room table. I put the seed heads on a white dinner plate or a cookie sheet to make it easier to see the seeds and prevent them from rolling off the table. By this time, the seeds and husks are completely dry and I simply pull apart the seed from the husk on the plate. If it is easy to remove, like marigolds, I put the seeds in a glass jar. If it is a fine seed with a lot of husks, like pak choi, I thrash it around in a large paper bag so that the seed falls to the bottom. I pull out and throw away the stems and pods and dump out the seeds on a cookie sheet. I separate further on the plate or I use a sieve. If the seed has a lot of chaff, I continue to separate seed by screening with a sieve. Eventually I work my way down from large grocery bags to small jars.

Wet Method of Saving Seeds

For this method the fruit has to be very ripe. For pumpkins, squash, and melon, simply remove the seeds and rinse the stringy fruit parts off with water, straining with a colander. For eggplant, cut into cubes and cover with water for a day, stirring once. Squish the seeds out and clean off with water in a colander. If there are remaining seeds, repeat the process the next day to get the rest out. Put clean seeds on a cookie sheet and let dry.

Pumpkin seeds can be saved or eaten

For cucumbers, scoop seeds out and put in a jar. Add water and stir every day for 2 days. Strain to remove seeds and let dry on a cookie sheet.

For tomatoes, squeeze or cut up the flesh and put into a jar. Add enough water to be able to stir the mixture and to create volume for the pulp to separate from the seeds. I keep my jars in the kitchen out of direct light and stir daily for a few days. The tomatoes will ferment and will look gross but this process separates the seeds.

After a few days, the heavy seeds will sink to the bottom and the lighter seeds and pulp will float to the top. Skim off and throw away the top layer. Keep the heavy seeds, they are the ones that are viable. Keep adding water, swishing until the good drops down and the bad surfaces, and skim again. Keep doing this until the water is clear with good seeds at the bottom. Pour the mixture into a sieve and put the seeds on a plate or cookie sheet in a dry area, out of direct light. Every few hours, stir around until dry. You want them to dry quickly at this point in time because the moisture left on them may induce them to germinate. Once they seem dry, let them sit for several weeks until completely dry and then store in a glass jar.

Open Pollinated versus Heirloom Plants

When saving seeds, it is important to know if your plants are open-pollinated or hybrids. If they are open pollinated, then the next generation will be the same. You will get the same plant with the same characteristics such as flower color or flavor. Heirlooms are open pollinated so you can save seeds of heirloom tomatoes and grow the same tomatoes each year.

If the plant is a hybrid, it was produced by crossing two genetically distinct parents. The hybrid was bred to have desirable characteristics such as disease resistance or better flavor. In seed catalogs, hybrids are often referred to as “F1”s – filial 1 hybrid. If you save the seed of this plant, the next generation may not retain the same desirable characteristics. You will get the same type of plant, but the plant may not be as tasty or not be resistant to a disease.

Try these simple methods to save seed for your own home garden or to give as gifts. Consider saving seeds for seed swaps with friends or local seed swap events.

Learn More About Gardening by Joining a Garden Club

As school starts again, it may be time to think about joining a garden club or plant society. It seems counterintuitive to join in the fall when the garden season starts in the spring, but clubs become more active again in the fall as many people go on vacation in the summer. By joining a local gardening club or plant society, you can learn so much more about plants that do well in this area plus you can make new friends who have similar interests.

In addition to the Master Gardener program (another article entirely), there are many garden clubs, societies, and organizations to join in the DC metro area. Check out their websites and contact them to find out about membership, activities, and meetings. This list is not all inclusive, if an organization is missing, put it in the comments section to include next time.

The American Horticultural Society

The American Horticultural Society is a national membership organization and its physical location is River Farm, 7931 East Boulevard Drive, Alexandria, VA. The property was part of George Washington’s tract along the Potomac River. The organization has numerous benefits, a magazine, and virtual workshops and events.

National Garden Clubs, Inc.

The National Garden Clubs, Inc., has 50 state garden clubs that are further broken down into regional clubs and local clubs. The National Garden Clubs is headquartered at 4401 Magnolia Avenue, St. Louis, MO. In this area, the state level clubs are: Virginia Federation of Garden Clubs, headquartered at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, 1800 Lakeside Avenue, Richmond, VA; and Federated Garden Clubs of Maryland, Inc., at 4915 Greenspring Avenue, Baltimore, MD. The local regional unit is the National Capital Area Garden Clubs. Within the National Capital Area Garden Clubs are many “neighborhood” clubs with differing meeting times so it is best to contact them for a local unit near you.

Garden Club of America

The Garden Club of America is headquartered at 14 East 60th Street, 3rd Floor, New York, NY.  There are only a few local clubs in this area which is Zone VI according to their map. There is the Garden Club of Chevy Chase, MD; and the Trowel Club and the Georgetown Garden Club in DC.

Garden Club of Virginia

The Garden Club of Virginia is headquartered at the Kent-Valentine House, 12 East Franklin Street, Richmond, VA. There are many local units across the Commonwealth so contact headquarters for one near you. The Garden Club of Virginia is famous for its annual Historic Garden Week in April when private and public gardens are open to the public and the local units’ volunteers not only help to put on this event but make floral arrangements for the homes.

Local Chapters of Plant Societies

There probably is an association for every type of plant and most have local chapters. These are the local chapters in order of the boldfaced plant name.

Local African Violet Society Clubs

Northern Virginia Chapter of the Azalea Society of America

Potomac Branch of the American Begonia Society

Northern Virginia Bonsai Society

Potomac Bonsai Association

Baltimore Bonsai Club

The American Boxwood Society

National Capital Cactus and Succulent Society

Camellia Society of the Potomac Valley

Old Dominion Chrysanthemum Society

American Conifer Society

Maryland, Virginia and DC Daffodil Societies

National Capital Dahlia Society

Northern Virginia Daylily Society

American Fern Society

National Capital Area Chapter of the Gesneriad Society

American Gourd Society.

Potomac Unit of the Herb Society of America

Potomac Hosta Club

American Iris Society, Region IV

National Capital Orchid Society

Mid-Atlantic Peony Society

Middle Atlantic Chapter of the American Rhododendron Society

And Potomac Chapter

Potomac Valley Chapter of the Northern American Rock Garden Society

Potomac Rose Society

Arlington Rose Foundation

Local Chapters of Native Plant Societies

There is a Maryland Native Plant Society headquartered in Silver Spring and a Virginia Native Plant Society located at 400 Blandy Farm Road, Unit 2, Boyce, VA. Check them out for local chapters.

Private Garden Clubs

Annapolis Horticultural Society

Bethesda Community Garden Club

Beltsville Garden Club

Burtonsville Garden club

Falls Church Garden Club

Greater Brookland Garden Club

Greenbelt Community Garden Club

Horticultural Society of Maryland

Hyattsville Horticulture Society

Sandy Spring Museum Garden Club

Silver Spring Garden Club

Takoma Horticulture Club

Friends of Organizations

There are opportunities to volunteer at public gardens, which is like being a member of a garden club. For example, there is a Friends of Green Spring in Alexandria, VA; Friends of Brookside Gardens in Wheaton, MD; and the Friends of the National Arboretum. There is a similar organization called the All Hallows Guild of the Washington National Cathedral, which has extensive grounds and a garden at Massachusetts & Wisconsin Avenues, NW, Washington, DC.

Monarda: Natives, Herbs, Beautiful Flowers and Pollinator Magnets

Monarda punctata

I have been on a Monarda kick lately. To me they have many facets: medicinal and culinary herb, pretty color, unusual flower structure, native plant, pollinator friendly, hummingbird favorite, etc., etc., etc. There are 17 species and two of the species, M. didyma and M. fistulosa, have been bred to produce many cultivars for the market. Usually, Monarda prefers moist soil in full sun to partial shade. Most are perennials that spread by rhizomes and can be “assertive” if given optimal conditions. M. didyma is more thuggish than the others.

Monarda didyma

Of all the species, M. didyma is most favored by hummingbirds because of the red, tubular flowers that are arranged in a whorl within a singular inflorescence. This plant was used by Native Americans for culinary and medicinal qualities. In fact, its common name, bee balm, comes from the practice of rubbing the foliage on the skin to alleviate the pain of bee stings. The foliage also can be used to make tea, hence its other common name, Oswego tea. In the 18th century, John Bartram, Philadelphia’s famed botanist, collected the seed in Oswego, New York. The leaves can either flavor a black tea or used as a substitute for traditional English tea, hence its popularity after the Boston tea party. I like using the red flowers to add color to a fruit salad.

Monarda fistulosa

I also planted M. fistulosa and it has thrived and multiplied. The inflorescence is similar to M. didyma but the tubular flowers are purple. My stand is about 3 feet tall. When it bloomed in early summer it provided a nice mass of purple color. This was not a hummingbird magnet, but butterflies liked it and the bees swarmed around the flowers. When the petals eventually fell off, the seed heads remained all summer long to the point that it looked like a different shrub altogether. M. fistulosa is called wild bergamot because its fragrance is similar to true bergamot (Citrus aurantium var. bergamia). Again, the leaves can be used to make tea or flavor a black tea plus the flowers are edible.

I purchased M. punctata (dotted bee balm) for its unique flower structure. The flower heads, which are more of a bleached green color, are stacked on top of each other, reminding me of the Dr. Seuss children’s books. This species is supposed to be resistant to powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that creates a white/gray powdery coating on the foliage in summer and early fall. This does not kill the plants but makes them unsightly and of course it makes it impossible to harvest the leaves for tea.

Monarda bradburiana seedheads (in August)

Last year, I bought M. bradburiana (eastern bee balm) at a plant sale, simply because it was a monarda I had not heard of before. This year it bloomed small flowers and the entire plant remained compact, less than 2 feet tall. The seed heads have stayed on all summer long. It has tolerated this hot summer very well with no signs of powdery mildew.

Early in the spring this year, I purchased two small plants of Monarda austroappalachiana. These are Tennessee natives and are supposed to be white flowered, resistant to powdery mildew, and less than 2 feet tall. The plants have survived but not thrived during this very hot summer so it may be a year or two before I can enjoy their full glory.

Next year I will grow Monarda citriodora (lemon bergamot), which, unlike the others in this article, is an annual. It has stacked purple flower heads and is supposed to be resistant to powdery mildew. I have read that the scent is not really lemon but more like camphor. The leaves can be used for tea and the flowers can be used for dried floral arrangements.

Of course, there are many cultivars of M. didyma at the nurseries, including compact types.  As fall approaches, you may find monarda plants on sale as many garden centers need to move their inventory of perennials. Add these to your garden for their multiple uses!

Monarda citriodora

Plant Now for the Fall and Winter Garden

mustard

mustard

August is the time for harvesting the summer’s bounty in the vegetable garden. But it is also the time to sow seeds for cool season veggies that thrive in the fall and winter. Even though it is hot and humid, by sowing now, your veggies will have the time to achieve maturity before day length gets too short. Also, it takes just a little longer to achieve maturity in the fall. But the good news is that often these plants are not bothered by as much disease and pests as in the summer.

Cool season crops include carrots, green onions (scallions), cauliflower, broccoli, broccoli raab, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, collards, spinach, Swiss chard, radish, turnip, and Asian or hardy greens such as mustard, tatsoi, mache, and kale. You still have time to plant garlic: that’s in October.

tatsoi

You can either purchase transplants from local garden centers or sow seed. To determine when to sow seed, look at the “days to maturity” on the seed packet. Count backwards from the average first frost date to determine when to plant. I use Halloween as my marker for a frost in Northern Virginia. When you are sowing seeds in the fall you have to take into account that day length is getting shorter. This “Short Day” factor is not addressed on the seed packet. If you are going to sow seed instead of purchasing a transplant from the garden center, you have to add 2 weeks to the numbers on the seed packet to allow for the cooler night temperatures and the shorter day lengths.  For example, to sow spinach seeds add 7 to 10 days for germination, 35 days to reach maturation, and 14 days for the Short Day factor for a total of 56 to 59 days.

One of the reasons why you start your seeds in August for a fall/winter garden is the Persephone period, where daylight starts to be less than 10 hours per day. When daylight is less than 10 hours, the plant stops growth. It is still alive, just “dormant” until daylight begins to increase a month later. This is based on latitude. Enter your zip code in the almanac website. Where I live, I entered November dates randomly in the almanac until I found a date close to 10 hours. I decided to use November 15, 2024, as the marker: it will be 10 hours and 5 minutes. I can then calculate that from August 1, I have 15 weeks to start a plant from seed to maturity. From September 1, it is 11 weeks. It is important to start the seeds early so the plant grows and is almost or at maturity before this stopping period. You want the plant to be mature before the Persephone period. Later in the winter/early spring when daylight increases, the plant will resume growth.

mache

mache

Also, find out the best temperature range for seed germination (start indoors versus outdoors), keep the seeds moist if starting outside in the hot, dry summer, and learn each crop’s tolerance for cold (soil and air) to know if you should provide additional warmth with row covers, cloches, or hoop tunnels in the winter. As the plant matures and frost comes, you may want to cover some crops to keep them alive during the winter and to harvest during the winter.

Even though it is still summer, start your cool season veggies now so they have time to mature before the day length is too short. You can always provide a little more warmth with coverage but you cannot control the day length. Below are handouts from Virginia and Maryland extension offices as well as a local seed company.

Virginia Cooperative Extension

Vegetable Planting Guide and Recommended Dates

University of Maryland Extension

Vegetable Planting Calendar

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange is a Virginia-based seed company that also has very useful local information: Fall and Winter Gardening Guide