Clara B. Plein Memorial Garden at River Farm

A section of the new garden.

The American Horticultural Society’s (AHS) River Farm in Alexandria, VA, has a new garden for the public to enjoy. The Clara B. Plein Memorial Garden showcases about 2,400 plants native to the region representing 30 species. Scott Plein, chairman of the AHS board, spearheaded the effort to create this garden in honor of his grandmother Clara.

“My first memories of being in the garden were at my grandparents’ home in DC,” said Scott.  “As a kid, I would spend summers there and sit with my grandmother in the backyard. I would tell her what I wanted to do with the landscape. She caught on that I had a great interest in her garden and in the landscape. The first lawn I cut was her lawn with a reel mower, which I still have. In the mid-1970s, she encouraged her friends to use my lawn mowing service. She bought my first new lawnmower. She was always there for me and supported me in my landscape business.”

Part of the new garden with the historic River Farm house (AHS headquarters) in the background.

Scott’s mowing business grew into KT Enterprises, Inc., a landscape development firm. In addition, Scott is principal of Equinox Investments, LLC, a real estate investment, development, and management firm.  As a Virginia native, he has been an AHS member for many years, but was just recently introduced to River Farm when the danger of losing the historic home and property became real in 2020 (situated on the Potomac River, River Farm is north of Mt. Vernon and was part of George Washington’s original tract of land). Scott was invited to be on the AHS board in 2021 and became chairman in 2022.

“I am very interested in the role horticulture plays in all of our lives which is why I am dedicated to helping AHS move forward,” explained Scott. “I also am an environment guy from the standpoint of seeing the need for balance between natural habitat and human habitat.”

As he got to know the historic property, he was inspired to create the Memorial Garden using native plants to attract and support pollinators. Another board member reached out to landscape architect Joan Honeyman of DC-based Jordan Honeyman Landscape Architecture, LLC, to see if she would be interested in designing the garden. Joan and Scott collaborated to create a design that incorporated the existing trees and as many Northern Virginia native plants as possible. Nothing of significance was on that particular tract of the property except the trees so the spaces between the trees were blank canvases.

“We made a concerted effort to design around the trees and not disturb the tree roots,” said Joan. “The area is segmented into a series of rooms that were based on the spaces left by the existing trees. We used predominantly Northern Virginia native plants and some native cultivars. We wanted to create a native plant habitat that attracted pollinators and that also had educational opportunities for visitors. We created mulched pathways for visitors to be able to see the plants and pollinators up close. We also plan to have signage, birdhouses, and places for visitors to sit.”

Another section of the new garden.

Because the soil and sun exposure varied, the actual plants varied but Joan purposely kept it simple. “The palette is limited. We did not want to have too many different varieties because it would have been harder to maintain but also it could have been deceiving to visitors who may think they can grow all of these plants. We used reliable native plants planted in great masses. Planting in mass makes it easier for pollinators to find and access the plants.”

What evolved were thematic pocket gardens: a woodland deciduous azalea and viburnum area; a transition or woods’ edge area; a meadow; shrubs and small trees that produce edible fruit; and a shade garden. “Something is blooming or has visual interest in each season,” explained Joan. “We also used basic design principles such as repetition so you may see the same plant to draw your eye along the edge of the garden and into the interior. Visitors may be inspired to try the same design principles and plants in their garden.” A list of the plants is on the AHS website.

In order to make Scott’s vision a reality, 15 local nurseries and landscape companies collaborated, donating plants, supplies, and labor. “We asked these companies if they could donate any of the plants on Joan’s list and they all donated something,” said Scott. The garden was planted in the fall of 2023; currently Ruppert Landscaping maintains the site. “Ruppert staff were great to work with,” said Joan. “Scott had the vision, and I was honored that he asked me to realize the memorial garden for him.”

On June 7, 2024, AHS held a private dedication ceremony. Scott gave a short speech and cut the ribbon while everyone toasted with the bubbly. Staff from the collaborating nurseries and landscape firms attended, as well as donors, dignitaries, River Farm friends, AHS board members and staff. It was a lovely summer evening, and I am sure Clara would have been proud to have been honored by a native plant garden on the Potomac River.

From left to right: Matt Zuccari (Ruppert), Sophia Ciallela (Ruppert), Cole Stoy (Ruppert), Scott Plein (White House Farm Foundation and American Horticultural Society), Joan Honeyman (Jordan Honeyman Landscape Architecture), Kris Alvarez (KT Enterprises), Matt Teese (South Riding Nurseries), and Matt Deivert (South Riding Nurseries)

All photos courtesy of the American Horticultural Society.

Lemon Eucalyptus: Like a Bowl of Fresh Lemons

A few years ago, I grew a lemon eucalyptus plant (Corymbia citriodora). I discovered it at a farmers market in Alexandria, VA, and the seller told me it was from Australia and was not hardy here in Zone 7 so it would have to be brought indoors in the fall. I had not seen one before so I was intrigued. This past weekend I saw them for sale at Greenstreet Gardens in Alexandria although the tag said “lemon bush” (photo to the left).

The lemon eucalyptus plant is great if you want a strong lemon scent for something like potpourri. It is also a medicinal herb; the leaves are used in traditional aboriginal medicine. The essential oil in the leaves is an antiseptic and is used in perfume. The plant is a rich source of citronella which is a mixture of many compounds including citronellol, citronellal and geraniol. The oil of eucalyptus is an effective mosquito deterrent. The plant itself cannot deter mosquitoes so don’t be fooled into thinking that a plant on the patio will keep you bug free.

There is a difference between the essential oil and the oil of eucalyptus. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has recognized oil of eucalyptus (OLE) as effective in deterring mosquitos. OLE contains p-Methane-3,8-diol (PMD), a naturally occurring compound obtained from the spent distillation of the leaves. PMD also can be synthesized in a laboratory. PMD is the only plant-based mosquito repellent that has been recognized by CDC to be effective in repelling mosquitoes while posing no risk to human health. However, children under the age of three should not use this because it can irritate the eyes. PMD has been registered by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as an effective plant-based mosquito repellent.

Lemon eucalyptus essential oil has a lower level of PMD and is not effective in repelling mosquitoes. The essential oil is made by steam distilling the leaves and twigs.

If you want a commercial, plant-based mosquito repellent, look for a product that lists “oil of lemon eucalyptus” as an active ingredient, which should provide up to six hours of protection.

My lemon eucalyptus plant thrived outside in the summer in a large container in full sun.  It grew several feet tall. The lemon scent was so strong, all you had to do was brush the leaves with your hand and you could visualize a bowl full of lemons.  Of all my lemon scented herbs — lemon balm, lemon grass, lemon verbena, lemon mint, lemon thyme, and lemon scented geranium – this was the most fragrant.

In its native habit, it would grow to be a tall evergreen tree and bloom tiny white flowers. Here in this area, you would have to bring the plant indoors in the fall to keep it alive. Or you can just purchase another one next year. I am glad to see it in nurseries now and I recommend growing this for its beautiful scent. The foliage should dry well (retain the scent) for potpourri or maybe even for wreaths.

Problems in the Garden? Ask These Experts

squash bugs

Summer is here and by now you are seeing a host of issues in your garden. If it isn’t Japanese beetles eating your roses, it’s deformed tomatoes and bugs on the squash. But don’t worry, there are plenty of resources for help in our area. One of the first places you should go to is your local Master Gardeners group and county extension agents.

Help in Northern Virginia

In Northern Virginia, there are two Master Gardener groups. People who live in Arlington and Alexandria are probably familiar with the Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia. They have an excellent website with plenty of resources. If you have a gardening question, you can contact the Extension Master Gardeners Help Desk via phone, in person at their office, or via email at mgarlalex@gmail.com. This is a service for the public. You do not have to be a master gardener, live in those areas, or pay anything. The people answering the questions are volunteer Master Gardeners and County Extension Agents.

Japanese beetles will decimate rose bushes

The second option is to contact the Fairfax County Master Gardeners Help Desk by calling or e-mailing at mgfairfax@vt.edu. This is a service of the Fairfax County Master Gardeners but again, you do not have to be a master gardener, you do not have to live in Fairfax County, and you do not have to pay anything. The reason why there are two Master Gardener groups in Northern Virginia is because the demand for the Master Gardener program is so high. This group also has an informative website.

Master Gardeners staff plant clinics at libraries and farmers markets. If you have a diseased plant or a particular pest issue, it helps to bring a cutting so they can identify the problem.

Help in Maryland

In Maryland, there is the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC) which is managed by the University of Maryland Extension. You can e-mail via a form and questions are answered by horticulturists. In the form, describe the problem and attach photos, if needed. The website lists a few suggestions: include an object to indicate scale for insects; attach both a close-up as well as the entire plant; send a photo of the entire weed plant with flower or seed head; and, if seeking a plant disease diagnosis, send photos showing the transition from healthy to diseased. This is a free service and the HGIC will assist Maryland and DC residents. This website also has a lot of great gardening information.

Leaf hoppers can spread viruses from plant to plant

Plant clinics are by county so just enter “plant clinic” and the county name to see if there is a schedule. Or the county name and “master gardeners” to see if they provide this service in another format.

There is a DC Master Gardener program but they do not provide plant diagnostics which is why DC residents are encouraged to contact the HGIC.

Other Options

One other option is the “Ask Extension” website, which is a portal for the Cooperative Extension System. Your question would be sent to the appropriate extension office within your state. (If you type in Washington DC you will be redirected to the Maryland HGIC.) Questions are answered by cooperative extension/university staff and volunteers within participating land grant institutions across the United States. In Maryland the land grant institution is the University of Maryland and in Virginia it is Virginia Tech. Again, a free service to the public across the country. Complete the form by entering your state, gardening question, e-mail, the county and state where you live, and the images, if needed.

caterpillar

Caterpillar form of the Eastern swallowtail butterfly which loves to eat foliage of parsley, dill and fennel

At many independent garden centers, such as Merrifield Garden Center, there are help desks with staff horticulturists who can help you with your gardening issues. Call your local nursery to see if they have professional staff who can help.

Of course, there are always gardening books at the local public libraries. Remember, do not get stressed about your garden. This is all part of the process. Figuring out what is wrong with a plant is part of gardening because gardening is a learning experience.

Deformed Flowers? It May Be Aster Yellows

If you have noticed that your coneflowers (Echinacea) or black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia) are looking strange, they may have “aster yellows” which is caused by a phytoplasma, a small bacterium. This is a disease that affects more than 300 species of plants, including asters, coneflowers, zinnias, marigolds, heleniums, and chrysanthemums. It also appears on vegetables such as garlic, lettuce, carrots, tomatoes, and celery.

Aster yellows is primarily transmitted via leafhoppers. Leafhoppers are small insects, only a few centimeters long, with wedge-shaped, brown, yellow, or green bodies. As the name suggests, they quickly hop from plant to plant. When a leafhopper feeds on a plant infected with aster yellows, the pathogen enters the leafhopper’s body and stays within for as long as that leafhopper lives. So as it feeds on plants and moves around from plant to plant, it spreads the phytoplasma thus spreading the disease. Once a plant is infected, if it is not removed, it remains a host plant — a source of phytoplasma for the rest of the plants in the garden.

Symptoms vary depending on the plant but in my garden, the flowers are grossly deformed. The flower heads are twisted and some are producing small tufts of green growth in the center of the flower. Some petals are too short or green–often there is more green than the color the flower should be. Once plants are infected, they should be removed from the garden. They cannot be cured.

The only thing you can do to prevent aster yellows is to remove and destroy diseased plants as soon as possible to prevent the spread, control weeds which may harbor the disease, and purchase ornamentals that are not as susceptible such as verbena, salvia, nicotiana, geraniums, impatiens, and cockscomb.

If your plant does look weird but you are not sure if it is because of aster yellows, take a clipping to a local plant clinic (usually at farmer’s markets or libraries) or ask your extension agent.

Growing Cucamelons

cucamelonRecently I grew cucamelons and I recommend growing this veggie for its ease and taste and as a fun kid project. Cucamelon has a variety of common names: Mexican sour gherkins, mouse melons, pepquinos, sandita, and Mexican miniature watermelons. The Latin name is Melathria scabra and they truly are in the cucumber family.

Cucamelons are vining, perennial plants that produce small, inch-long fruit. The fruit can be eaten raw or pickled like cucumbers. Native to Mexico and central America, cucamelons prefer the summer’s warmth.

You may not see the plants in local nurseries but they are easy to grow from seed. You can start the seed indoors under lights like tomato seeds and move out to the garden after danger of frost has passed. Or you can start from seed in May outside after the danger of frost has past. Like cucumber plants, they produce vines but these are very slender vines reaching up to 7 or 10 feet.  Mine grew on an A-frame trellis about 4 feet tall and wide.  Two plants covered one side, climbed over the other side, and are now running across the ground. Because the vines are slender (and not spiny) they are easy to pick up and drape over the frame. The plant is much more robust than regular cucumbers, they certainly are more disease resistant.

mousemelons

I grow other cucumbers as well and by July they have diseased foliage and the plants just peter out. The cucamelons were thriving in July despite Virginia’s heat and humidity.

Cucamelons produce small yellow flowers and green/white variegated fruit, exactly like a miniature watermelon. They taste like a cucumber but not as juicy,  cool or refreshing. We ate them raw as a snack. They can be added to a green salad, cold pasta salad, or a rice salad. They can be pickled or used to make a relish. They can even be used as a garnish in cocktails.

If I had known these vines would be so healthy, I would have placed them on my new privacy fence. They can serve double duty, covering a screen or fence and producing edible fruit. They would be great for children’s teepees or small hideaway places as long as the children are not too young. Because cucamelons are so small they can be a choking hazard for very young children. Although they can be grown in containers, they would still need a trellis system.

fruit

Because the fruit’s coloring does not change as it matures, sometimes it is hard to tell when to pick them. The mature size is the size of a large grape, and should be a little tender. When you squeeze, it should give a little. If it is hard and does not give, it is overripe and may taste bitter. But these can be used for pickling. It is best to harvest early and often.

I highly recommend planting cucamelons. They are easy to grow, disease resistant, and very productive.

Curry Plant, Curry Tree, Curry Leaf

curry plant

Curry plant blooming in June

Recently I gave a presentation on Asian culinary herbs from a gardener’s perspective. The goal was to identify those Asian culinary herbs that we can grow in the mid-Atlantic area for the summer. Also, because some of the plants are difficult to find here, I provided seed and plant resources.

One of the herbs I talked about was the curry tree. There are actually two plants with curry in the name, one is a culinary herb, and one is an ornamental plant that performs well here in Virginia.

The culinary herb is curry tree or curry leaf (Murraya koenigii), a southeast Asian small tree maturing at 10 to 15 feet, hardy to zone 10. We are not likely to find this for sale in this area, but it can be ordered online and grown in the home as a small plant. It is easy to find the foliage in Asian supermarkets. The leaves are used fresh but if you have too many you can freeze them. Although the leaves are used in curry dishes, chutneys, and soups, they do not have a strong curry fragrance. Interestingly, I found a few recipes online for making bread with chopped up curry leaves. I bought a package for the presentation and now have a bag of leaves so I am going to experiment with the Murraya to see how I can use it in the kitchen. Although associated with Asian dishes, many of the herbs I talked about could be used in other cuisines or in other ways. The bread intrigues me so I will try that first.

curry leaf

Curry leaf

I explained in the presentation that there is another curry plant, an ornamental garden plant, called Helichrysum italicum. This plant has been in my garden for several years. Now in June it is about 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide and blooming. I love it because brushing against the shrub releases a lovely fragrance of curry spices, as if you were in an Indian restaurant. This plant is available at most nurseries in this area. It hails from Turkey and is a full sun, drought resistant, deer resistant, silvery shrub. I purposely bought it for a place in my garden that receives very little rain and is in a hot southern exposure area of my property. The plant is hardy to zone 7. So far, no animals or pests have bothered it. It is blooming little yellow flowers now, attracting beneficial insects. The flowers retain their shape and color, which make them ideal for dried flower arrangements and potpourris.

You can grow both: the Helichrysum outside and Murraya inside. But only cook with the Murraya!

snow on curry plant

Snow on curry plant

Dill: Easy, Versatile Herb to Grow

dill flower headsDill (Anethum graveolens) is easy to grow from seed. I just throw a few seed in a large plastic container on my deck in late March. I don’t worry about frost or cold nights but I do make sure the top of the soil is moist until I see the foliage emerge. Here in Virginia, we seem to have plenty of rain or snow in March so the seeds do not dry out. In May, when the garden soil is warmer, I lift the seedlings out with a trowel and plant in the garden bed in full sun.

Native to the Mediterranean area, dill is a member of the carrot family (Apiaceae). Dill is an annual that may re-seed in the garden. Usually dill foliage, also called dill weed, is used for culinary purposes. It can be used fresh or dried — dried dill weed retains the flavor well. Fresh foliage is great in egg dishes, fish, tomato salads, cucumber salads, cooked carrots, fresh veggie dishes and even dill butter. In the winter, dried dill can be used for canned veggies, egg dishes, and tuna salad.  It is easy to dry the foliage, just wash and let dry flat on paper towels for a few weeks, then store in a glass jar.dill (2)

Dill also is a medicinal herb. The name means to calm or soothe and dill was used to calm troubled stomachs and colicky infants. It is a very old herb that was used by Greeks and Romans.

Dill can be grown in containers or in the ground. However, since some varieties can be several feet tall, the containers need to be heavy and large enough so winds won’t knock the plant over. Dill also is a host plant for butterflies. You may see the distinctive caterpillars of the black swallowtails on the foliage. They can decimate the foliage very quickly so plant some for you and some for them.

dill pl

Dill tends to flower quickly in the summer. You may be able to sow again up until mid-summer.  The flowers are actually beneficial to the garden, they attract the good bugs. The flowers are edible and can be used to garnish a dish. They can be used in floral arrangements and there are specific cultivars that produce large flower heads for this purpose.

However, once the plants flower, they set seed and the plant itself starts to put energy into the seed and not the foliage. It is easy to save the seed because they are all in one structure called an umbel. When the seeds are brown, simply cut the umbel and drop into a large paper bag. Let dry for a few weeks, then put the umbel on a plate or in a large bowl and rub the seeds off. Store seeds in a glass jar and either use them in the kitchen or plant them next year. Seeds can be used in baking, breads, or crackers.

The plant as well as seed packets should be easy to find in local nurseries but if you cannot find dill, check out these seed companies.

Growing Taro, Also Known as Elephant Ears or Colocasia

taro plantsIn March I purchased a few taro corms in an Asian supermarket when I made my annual trek to purchase the lemongrass and ginger. I potted them up in small containers with drainage holes, watered and put them in the living room. The warmth of the home and the water encouraged them to sprout. Now that it is the end of May, it is time to plant them outside.

Also known as elephant ears (Colocasia esculenta), taro produces large, 1 to 2 feet long leaves, similar to an elephant’s ear. The entire plant will reach about 2 to 3 feet tall. This one will have green foliage but there are Colocasia cultivars with beautifully colored foliage.

Colocasia plants are tender herbaceous perennials native to Asia. The “root” is called a corm and is used as a food source, much in the same way we use potatoes. The leaves and stems are edible too but nothing should be eaten raw. This plant must be cooked first. The taro was being sold at the Asian supermarket as food but for a few dollars I purchased them to use as ornamental foliage for my garden.taro corms

These plants add a touch of the “tropics” and perform well in our hot and humid summers. They prefer part shade or filtered sun and rich, moist but well-drained soil. You can plant them in a large container, as a backdrop in an ornamental garden, or as a specimen plant. You can also “color” them up a bit by planting with other shade tolerant, colorful foliage plants such as caladiums.

Hardy to Zone 8, they may or may not survive in my Zone 7 Virginia garden. Lately we have had mild winters so there is a 50/50 chance. When the growing season ends, I can either dig up and save the corms to plant next year, or I can leave the plant as is and just wait to see if it comes back. If not, I can always purchase more corms.

Try growing taro in your garden. This is also a good kid project. For just a few dollars, they can plant the corm and learn about botany, gardening, and food staples from other countries.

Dealing with Mosquitoes in the Garden

mosquitoIf you are like me, you are plagued by mosquitoes in the garden. It is one thing to stay out of their way at dusk but it is quite another when the Asian Tiger attacks you all day long. In fact, we have 40 mosquito species in Virginia in a variety of habitats but most are aquatic. Up until the mid-1980s, the most problematic species was Culex, which comes out at dusk and feeds at night. This species lives in the woods and prefers the type of stagnant water that usually does not occur near residential homes. However, they also breed in “container water.” Container water is fresh rain water that sits in pockets or depressions in objects or in containers.

After the mid-1980s, a Southeast Asian native arrived called the Asian Tiger mosquito, Aedes albopictus. The Asian Tiger is active during the day and prefers to breed in container water. The Asian Tiger has a cousin, Aedes aegypti, who also prefers to breed in container water. Both are vectors for transmitting diseases. Both can transmit the Zika virus but A. aegypti is more effective and considered a primary transmitter.  Both could prosper here, we have the appropriate environmental conditions, but currently there is not a substantial A. aegypti population.

No doubt you have seen plants that are supposed to repel mosquitoes but in reality they do not work if they are just sitting in the landscape. The best you can do is spray yourself and your clothing. If you intend to spend time working in the garden, wear long sleeves, long pants, socks, and shoes, and spray yourself with repellants such as DEET (25-30 percent), Picaridin (20 percent), oil of eucalyptus, or IR-3535 (Merck 3535), which is found in Avon’s Skin So Soft.bucket

You have also seen companies selling mosquito spraying for your property. The most popular mosquito adulticide for home landscapes is permethrin but it is toxic to fish, aquatic arthropods, and the non-target insects (pollinators).  Don’t be fooled when the pesticide applicators try to sell you on the fact that it is “natural” because it comes from a chrysanthemum plant. What they are spraying is not natural, it is a chemical. There are substances called pyrethrins that are the active ingredients in pyrethrum, an extract of a flower, and these are natural insecticides that act by blocking chemical signals at nerve junctions. However, commercial sprayers are not spraying pyrethrins. They are spraying permethrin, which is based on pyrethroids, synthetic pesticides. Permethrin is a pyrethroid insecticide that is light-stable and has a longer duration of activity against insects than pyrethrins. Thus, what the company is spraying on your garden is permethrin, a chemical that kills aquatic life and pollinators and render vegetables, herbs, and fruits non-edible. This is especially important if you have your edibles mixed in with your ornamentals and you are relying on pollinators to set fruit.

In addition, if your property is sprayed, it will kill the existing ones but the next day more can fly in. If you spray your garden and your neighbors don’t, you can always inherit your neighbors’ mosquitoes. Commercial companies may tell you that the spray will last for a month but that does not prevent new mosquitoes from entering nor does the spray continue to kill for up to a month.The most environmentally friendly effective control is to control the larva stage. Because mosquitoes breed in container water, anything that collects water should be dumped after it rains. Mosquitoes require as little as one tablespoon of water to lay eggs. It can take as short a time as 3 days for a new generation. After it rains, either dump the water or eliminate the object (e.g., put watering cans back inside the tool shed or throw away old tires). If the water cannot be dumped, such as a pond, make sure the pond has plenty of mosquito larvae eating fish, dragonfly larva, frogs, toads, and other such organisms. For rain barrels, use the mosquito dunks that are made of a safe bacteria. Or transform the water feature so that the water is moving by installing a bubbler or waterfall. Mosquitoes do not like moving water or moving air.

Don’t get your landscape sprayed. Be vigilant about dumping water after it rains. Garden in the cool morning with long sleeves and pants. Don’t spray your face with mosquito spray but spray the back of your hand (before you put your gardening gloves on) and then apply the back of your hand to your neck, tips of your ears, temples. If you have any more useful suggestions, please enter them in the comments. But don’t let the mosquitoes deter you from gardening!

Tips for Growing Peppers

peppers in container

peppers combined with flowers in a container

Peppers are easy to grow from seed, but you also can purchase small plants at the local garden center in the beginning of the growing season. If you grow peppers from seed, you can grow a wider variety than what is available at the garden centers. All peppers are grown the same way, they have the same cultural requirements. There are almost 30 species of Capsicum, but in the mid-Atlantic area, we tend to grow three: C. annuum, C. chinense, and C. frutescens.

Within C. annum, there are many varieties and hybrids. Bell peppers are large and sweet, maturing in a red, yellow, or green color. These do not have capsaicin, the compound responsible for heat, due to a recessive gene that eliminates the capsaicin. Other peppers without capsaicin are the Italian frying peppers, Jimmy Nardello, Giant Marconi or Marconi, and banana or yellow wax peppers. C. annuum also includes hot peppers, also called chili peppers, which have capsaicin.

Capsaicin is primarily concentrated in the veins, ribs, and seeds. Removing these is one way to reduce the heat. Capsaicin is an oil which is why drinking water when you have eaten a particularly hot pepper does not help get rid of the burn. Instead, drink milk or eat yogurt, a banana, bread, pasta, or potatoes.

The Scoville scale is a measurement of the heat of a chili pepper recorded in Scoville Heat Units. It is based on the concentration of capsaicinoids among which capsaicin is the predominant component. This range is 0 to as high as 2,693,000 (Pepper X according to the Guinness World Records in 2023 whereas previously the Carolina Reaper was the hottest). Sweet peppers are 500 or less and include the bell pepper and the pimiento.

The C. chinense species is the habanero type of pepper – a type of chili pepper Native to South and Central America that includes habanero, scotch bonnet, and ghost pepper.

The C. frutescens species is another chili pepper native to South and Central America that produces small fruit that tend to grow upright. C. frutescens includes the tabasco pepper and the colorful ornamental varieties.

If you are really diving deep into peppers, there are two other species you can try to grow but likely you will have to start from seed as the plants usually are not available in this area.

Mad Hatter, a baccatum type sweet pepper with a unique shape that will turn red at maturity

The C. baccatum species has a wide variety of peppers, from sweet to hot, from South and Central America. Many are beautiful with unique shapes. These include bishop’s crown, Brazilian starfish, lemon drop, and the “aji” peppers (have “aji” in their name although not all aji peppers are in this genus).

The C. pubescens species has apple-shaped fruit and hairy foliage. They can be mild or very hot. Native to Peru and Bolivia, popular varieties include rocoto, manzano, and locoto.

Starting Peppers from Seed

If growing from seed, start indoors under lights about 4 to 6 weeks before the average last spring frost. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep. They like warm rooms to germinate so if you are doing this in your basement, you may need a heating mat. Peppers are slow to germinate, the hottest peppers are the slowest. It could take more than a week to see anything. Direct sowing seeds is not recommended because the soil in May will be too cold.

sweet peppers in a container

In May, after frost has past, night temperature are consistently above 50 degrees, and soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees, move the plants outside or plant the ones you purchased from the garden center.

If you are moving your seedlings outside, remember to harden them off by gradually exposing them to light and the winds. If there is an unforeseen cold night, cover with a cloche or a 2-liter plastic soda bottle with the end cut off.

Transplanting into the Garden

Don’t rush to plant your peppers. They need warm temperatures so this could be June (or if you live in Virginia, after the dogwood blossoms have fallen). Peppers do best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Make sure you amend the soil with compost; they do not want too much clay. They need good drainage. Peppers also can be grown in raised beds or in containers that are at least 5 gallons with drainage holes. Place in full sun, at least 8 hours of sun a day, spaced at least 18 inches apart (from central stem to stem). They do not like to be crowded. Make sure your hose reaches them.

Unlike tomatoes, you don’t plant them as deep as possible. Plant the transplant so that the shoots are at the soil line as they were before transplanting.

Peppers are susceptible to sunscald which occurs on the fruit that has been exposed to intense direct sunlight. This could happen when you first plant them but will not kill the plant.

Usually, peppers do not need to be staked, nor do they need to be pruned.

Growing Peppers in the Summer

Peppers optimal temperatures for setting fruit is 65 to 85 degrees. However, the flowers can drop (i.e., not produce fruit) if the temperatures are above 90 degrees during the day and 75 degrees at night.

Jimmy Nardello, a sweet frying pepper

Peppers need fertilizer but withhold it when the plant starts to flower. A slow-release organic fertilizer with more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen is best. You can use one especially formulated for tomatoes.

Like tomatoes, peppers can get blossom end rot. To prevent this, make sure the soil moisture is consistent, not varying widely between very wet and very dry.

The small fruit varieties do better in the mid Atlantic’s hot and humid summer than the large fruit varieties.

They fruit up until frost so if it is just one night of cold weather, you may be able to cover for the night to extend the harvest season. If you are expecting a freeze, harvest the mature ones.

Harvesting and Eating Peppers

You need to know your varieties’ mature stage fruit color. Although all peppers may be eaten in the green stage, there is more flavor and vitamins in a ripe, colored up pepper.

Temperature influences color on the pepper. Purple pigment develops under cool temperatures so if you see purple streaks on peppers, it is because the temperature is too cool (maybe in the fall). The purple color does not affect the flavor. However, that is why it is difficult for gardeners in the mid-Atlantic area to grow solid purple varieties – it is just too hot in the summer.

red and black ornamental peppers with dark foliage

When picking chili peppers, you may want to wear gloves as the capsaicin may irritate the skin. After cutting and preparing in the kitchen, wash your hands with soap afterwards and do not touch your face or eyes.  Remember that capsaicin is primarily concentrated in the veins, ribs, and seeds so you can reduce the heat in a chili pepper by removing these.

Peppers dry well and can be ground or crushed. Wash the pepper and either cut and leave open on paper plate inside the house or leave whole (but whole will take longer to dry). Often gardeners will string up the whole peppers to hang in the kitchen. Or dry the peppers in a dehydrator, the oven, or outside in the sun. Dried peppers have more flavor and heat.

Saving Pepper Seed

If you want to save pepper seeds, make sure the plant is an open-pollinated plant, not a hybrid. Peppers have perfect flowers (both male and female parts) therefore they can pollinate themselves and do not need bees. However, bees do visit peppers and can cross pollinate the peppers in your garden and with peppers in neighbors’ gardens. This cross pollination occurs within a species. If you grew more than one variety, such as a sweet and a hot in the same genus (C. annum), be aware that bees may have cross pollinated them. Therefore, if you saved sweet pepper seeds and grow the seeds the next year, the resulting fruit could be hot, not sweet. To prevent cross pollination, you would have to separate your varieties of one species by 300 to 1600 feet or grow different species.

To save seeds, simply slice open a very mature pepper and remove the seeds. Place the seeds on wax paper to dry inside the house. Seeds are dry if they snap when you bend them. When dried, put in a container, seal, and label. Store in a cool, dark, and dry place.

You will get good germination rates from saved seeds for about 3 years.

Final Note

The mid-Atlantic units of the Herb Society of America host a Chili Celebration every October at the U.S. National Arboretum in Washington DC. This is a free event on Saturday, October 12, 2024, in the afternoon. The Units come to the National Herb Garden and set up tables of peppers to taste as well as products made with chili peppers plus a lot of information on growing peppers. The National Herb Garden also has pepper plants that are fruiting at this time. Yes, some of these are hot so we also provide milk and bread. See you there!