Tag Archives: tropical plants

Creating Terrariums with Tropical Plants

When I was in middle school and my family moved into a new home in Sugarland Run, in Virginia, the realtor gave my parents a housewarming gift of a large, foot high glass bottle of little plants. It was the first time I saw a terrarium, and I thought it was magical. A tiny, enclosed forest of tropical plants, where you can just imagine the trolls peeping through.

Now, with the advent of succulents, the word “terrarium” can mean sand-filled landscapes of succulents and bone-dry skulls. It also can be a singular tillandsia on white pebbles in a glass dome. There are many terrarium books on the market and if you flip through the glossy pages, you will see that anything is possible.

But to go back to the basics, to re-create that magical world, is actually very easy. It also is a great indoor project to do in the winter.

At the very least, you need the container, pebbles for drainage, potting mix, and the plants. You can use activated charcoal, moss, and decorations. A water mister with a stream option makes clean up easy and if the opening is wide enough for your hand to get through you should not need special tools.

Look around your house for a glass container. For beginners, it is easier to have one with a wide opening. It can be an open container or one with a lid; you can always add a lid. See if you have an old goldfish bowl, fish tank, or even a glass cookie jar. If you don’t have one, visit the local Salvation Army, Goodwill, flea market, or pet stores for cheap containers.

Purchase pea gravel and houseplant potting mix from the hardware store or nursery. You can get a large, heavy bag of pea gravel in the outdoors nursery section of Home Depot and Lowe’s or you can purchase a small bag where they sell houseplants. You can also purchase small bags of pea gravel at nurseries. The Fair Oaks location of Merrifield Garden Center has a bin where you can purchase pea gravel by the scoop.

Often the plants in the 2-inch containers are root bound so tease the roots apart.

Purchase a few small tropical plants, the type that are sold in plastic 2-inch containers. Make sure you look at the price of each one because when viewing from the top, they all look the same, but when looking at the price tag from the side, you may notice that some plants are three times more expensive than others. No need to purchase expensive ones.

Selecting plants for the terrarium is very similar to purchasing plants for containers in the garden. Think “thriller, spiller, filler.” Choose an upright plant, a mounding plant, and a trailing or creeping plant. Have an odd number of plants — 3 or 5. Create visual interest through different textures and colors. Also, think of how you can create more interest either with moss, decorative stones, or bark.

You can purchase bags of activated charcoal at the houseplant section of the hardware store or the nurseries. Activated charcoal has been treated at a very high temperature to be more porous and is used as a filtration system. It is supposed to remove impurities and prevent mold and mildew. The are just as many advocating the use of charcoal as those who say it is a waste of money. I use it when I am using a completely enclosed system.

Teasing apart one plant to get several.

You also can purchase sheets of dried moss. There are a few types available locally and more online, including live moss. Do not dig up moss from your garden. You could be bringing in insects, bacteria, and fungal organisms, which when placed in a terrarium, could “bloom” out of control.

When selecting the container and the plants, keep in mind the headroom – the space above the plants that is necessary for oxygen. Make the headroom about half the height of the container.

Step-by-Step Process:

  1. Remove the plants from the containers and examine the root structure to see if a) they are root bound and b) you can easily divide the plant. Like plants you purchase for the garden, these may be root bound and must be teased apart before planting. Likewise, if you look where the growth is coming from, you may see that you can loosen and separate to have more than one plant. If you can get more than one plant but you only need one, just pot up the extras for a future terrarium.
  2. For the plants you are going to put in the terrarium, moisten the root system by submerging in a mug of water.
  3. Add a layer of pea gravel for drainage to your container.
  4. Add a thin layer of charcoal, just to cover the pea gravel.
  5. Add a layer of the potting mix. The depth will depend on the container and plants. Add enough to cover your plants’ root systems.
  6. Insert plants with moist root systems.
  7. Add more potting mix around plants, tamp into place with your fingers.
  8. Add moisten moss if desired (moisten by spritzing with water). Tamp everything in place.
  9. When you are satisfied with the placement you can either clean up now and wait to add the decorative pieces later or add everything now and clean up. I like to clean up and then let my terrarium sit for a few days so I can ponder if it is truly done or not. A terrarium is a work of art. You need to feel comfortable that you have made it the best it can be.
  10. Clean by misting or squirting the foliage with water – just enough to get the soil off. Wipe the container’s sides with a paper towel. It is not necessary to water the plants, and you don’t want to inject too much water.
  11. If there is a lid, put the lid on. The next day, if there is condensation, take the lid off, wipe the sides, and let the moisture evaporate to “dry” out a bit. Condensation is a sign of too much moisture, which may lead to fungal issues.
  12. Place the terrarium in a warm area with bright light, not in direct light.

Terrariums are not watered often like houseplants. Theoretically the plants get enough water by being in an enclosed or partially enclosed environment and by being in proximity with each other. You should water when the soil looks dry, lighter in color, or the plants are wilting. Keep an eye on condensation and “critters.” If a piece of plant has died or is moldy, remove it.

Terrarium plants are not fertilized. You are not encouraging growth; you are encouraging a level of equilibrium, so the plant is able to obtain what it needs. In other words, you are creating a mini world of tropical plants.

Try making a terrarium this winter. This is a fun activity to do with your friends, garden club, or kids. They also make excellent gifts.

Mandevilla or Dipladenia? What’s the Difference?

Dipladenia ‘White Halo’ in my garden

In past years, I have grown Mandevilla plants but this year I have a Dipladenia growing in a container. I know the name is a mouthful, they have to come up with an easier name to pronounce, let alone spell. My Dipladenia is a Flordenia type which is supposed to be more floriferous, stronger branching, and heat and drought tolerant. I have White Halo which of course has white flowers.

Both Mandevilla and Dipladenia plants are popular tropical plants. They bloom all summer long in full sun, undaunted by dry spells.  The flowers are very similar, trumpet-shaped, in a range of white, pink, reds, yellow and even peach.

But there is one distinct difference between the two.

Mandevilla with hoya-like foliage

Mandevilla is a vining plant; it climbs up to the sunlight. You purchase it with the intent to cover an arbor, pergola, or obelisk. The stems and foliage remind me of a hoya plant (in fact, they are cousins). The leaves seem larger than the Dipladenia, pointed and glossy. However, if you purchased a Mandevilla and would like to grow it as a shrub, you can just prune it.

A Dipladenia is a shrub, it will not climb up a structure. This makes it perfect for containers and hanging baskets. The foliage is smaller, more compact, and more matte than glossy. The space between nodes (joints where leaves arise) is shorter than the Mandevilla. It is more of a slow grower while a Mandevilla will grow fast to cover a structure. Although they both have trumpet-shaped flowers, to me the Dipladenia flowers appear flatter with a shallow throat.

Dipladenia with compact foliage

Both are full sun, drought tolerant with no need to deadhead (the older I get the more important this is to me). They attract pollinators and are deer and rabbit resistant.

As fall approaches, they can be kept overwinter in order to plant in the garden the following year (these are not cheap plants). There are several ways to do this depending on the space and light in your house. You can root 4 to 6-inch stem cuttings and grow them inside as houseplants. You can give your plant a good trim in the fall, up to one half of the foliage to reduce transpiration, bring the plant in and place in a sunny, cool location and water less often. Or you can cut the foliage back severely, place the plant in a cool, dark place and stop watering. Let it go dormant for the winter but check on it so it does not dry out completely.

Don’t be surprised if containers of Mandevilla and Dipladenia get mixed up at the local garden centers. Most people do not recognize the difference. Regardless, they are great investments for constant summer blooms especially when we have dry summers such as this one.

Mandevilla

Mandevilla: Tropical Beauties Worth Keeping

mandevillaMandevilla plants are popular summer bloomers here in this area.  I have always admired these vigorous climbers with bright, large, trumpet-shaped flowers. Usually, I see pink, red, or white blossoms, but there are other colors on the market.

Mandevilla is a member of the Apocynaceae family, also known as the dogbane family, cousin to Plumeria (frangipani), Nerium (oleander), Vinca (periwinkle), Amsonia (blue star), and Hoya (wax plant). Native to southeastern United States, Mexico, Central America, South America, and the West Indies, these are considered tropical plants here in the DC area. Mandevilla was named after Henry Mandeville, a British diplomat and gardener who discovered this plant in Argentina and sent it back to England in the 1800s.

tango twirl mandevilla

Tango Twirl has fully double petals, photo courtesy of Doreen Wynja for Monrovia

In recent years, there has been a tremendous amount of hybridizing with mandevillas. There are many lines or series such as Sun Parasol, Sunvilla, Bombshell, and Parfait. There are plants that are more compact than the species, really compact for containers, and plants with variegated foliage, double-petaled flowers, and new flower colors such as apricot. They are all beautiful, but they are not cheap. Although they may cost a little more, they thrive in our hot, humid summers; are deer and rabbit resistant; and attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

They do need support and should be planted with a trellis or obelisk or planted near a pergola or a fence. If they are grown in containers, they will need fertilizer in the summer for continuous blooms.  They are actually very versatile. I have seen them in containers at gas stations where they thrive despite the heat and neglect and I have seen them used to decorate arbors, arbors and pergolas.

arch

Brookside Gardens in Wheaton, Maryland

Because these are tropical vines, hardy to Zone 10, they will die here in the DC area in the winter. But you can protect them over the winter so they can be brought outside again next year for another season of beauty.

apricot colored flower

Apricot is an unusual, apricot colored flower, photo courtesy of Doreen Wynja for Monrovia

There are basically two ways to do this. One is to grow them like houseplants indoors and the other is to let them go dormant for the winter. In the fall, before the temperatures dip below fifty degrees, bring the plant inside. Remember that night temperatures can dip below fifty even though day temperatures are still warm in the fall.

To grow like a houseplant, trim them back first. It can be a real haircut, up to one half of the foliage, but do it so you are removing leaves and stems for reducing transpiration, not to make it ugly. Then place in a room that has much light as possible while as cool as possible. Water less frequently; do not fertilize. It may not bloom but that is okay, it is just surviving for a few months. Keep watching for pests. In the spring, prune and fertilize. In early June bring the plant outside. Place in shade first and gradually move to full sun.

The dormant method is to bring the plant indoors and trim back to about twelve inches. Put in a cool garage or basement where temperature is above freezing. Make sure it does not dry out completely. Water only to prevent it from drying out. In the spring, bring it in the house to increased light and heat. In early June, bring it outside. Again, shade first and gradually to full sun.

This way, your mandevilla plant should provide color every summer and you will certainly get your money’s worth.



Sneak Peak at New, Unique Houseplants from Costa Farms

Philodendron ‘Golden Crocodile’

In the beginning of March, I spent a few days in Miami attending Costa Farms’ Season Premiere event. This was at their trial gardens and for me as a garden communicator, this was an opportunity to see how plants performed as well as learn about new plant introductions and meet the plant breeders. Costa Farms is one of the largest horticultural growers in the world. It is a fourth generation, family-run company that employees more than 6,000 people and grows plants on 5,000 acres. The company started in 1961 when Jose Costa Senior purchased 30 acres to grow tomatoes in the winter and calamondin citrus in the summer. Soon he was growing houseplants and now the company has expanded into annuals, perennials, and tropical plants for the garden.

Philodendron ‘Ring of Fire’

I attended the event with several other GardenComm members. Justin Hancock, senior horticulturist at Costa Farms, treated us to a sneak preview of the 2023 and 2024 introductions for Costa Farms’ Trending Tropicals® collection. He also gave us a tour of the packing and shipping facility where orders are carefully wrapped, packaged, and put on trucks to deliver across the country. Each plant order comes with a postcard providing light, water, and fertilizer requirements as well as growing tips. They have a staff dedicated to answering the customers’ plant questions and a very informative website.

Although you can see their houseplants at Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart, and other retail locations, you can also buy direct via their shop costa website.

Most of the Trending Tropicals® collection of houseplants are selected by their plant hunters (yes, that really is a profession) who travel to other countries to look for unique plants that can be grown here. Once they identify possibilities, they bring them back to Costa Farms to propagate and trial before they are sold to the public. Some of the plants Justin showed us were discovered by staff at Costa Farms as “sports” (natural mutations) from their current inventory.

Dieffenbachia ‘Crocodile’

Justin showed us 19 new plants for 2023 and 2024 in one of the production warehouses. In my descriptions below, I hyperlinked to those varieties that are in stock and ready to be ordered directly from their website at the time of this writing.

Of the 19, there are three 2024 introductions that are not available yet and not on the Costa Farms’ website but here is a sneak peek at these fascinating plants. All are large houseplants, perfect for living room décor, and easy to grow in bright light. Philodendron ‘Golden Crocodile’ has large, serrated leaves that first appear as golden yellow maturing to light green. Philodendron ‘Ring of Fire’ has variegated foliage with splashes of white, cream, and yellow. Dieffenbachia ‘Crocodile’ has large green leaves speckled white or light green. The back of the leaves’ midrib has “scales” – like a crocodile’s back.

In the photo above, from left to right in the back:  Epipremnum ‘Lemon Meringue’, Aglonema ‘Solar Flare’, Spathiphyllum ‘Sophia’. Two in front from left to right: Alocasia azlanii and Cordyline ‘Mini Me’.

Epipremnum Lemon Meringue is a pothos or devil’s ivy with gold leaf margins. It is very easy to grow and can tolerate low light. Aglonema ‘Solar Flare’ also is easy to grow and can take low light and a bit of dryness — perfect for those who forget to water plants or travel frequently. ‘Solar Flare’ is variegated with white petioles (stems), almost like a bok choi Chinese cabbage. Spathiphyllum ‘Sophia’ (also known as peace lily) has variegated green leaves. Cordyline ‘Mini Me’ is a great tabletop houseplant. Given its small stature, it packs a punch of pink foliage, especially if given bright light. Alocasia azlanii has very dark purple, almost metallic colored leaves. It too is a small plant, perfect for tables or even terrariums.

In the photo above, from left to right in the back: Philodendron ‘Pink Princess’, Philodendron ‘Painted Lady’, and Epipremnum amplissimum ‘Silver Streak’. The two in front from left to right: Philodendron ‘White Knight’ and Philodendron ‘Golden Violin’.

Philodendron ‘Pink Princess’ is a climbing vine with bronze-green leaves splashed with pink. ‘Pink Lady’ has gold green foliage with pink petioles (stems). Epipremnum amplissimum ‘Silver Streak’ is an unusual pothos in that it has narrow, long green leaves. To me, its branching habit makes it look like an orchid. White Knight has white markings on green leaves. Philodendron ‘Golden Violin’ is coming soon; you may not see it on the website now. The new growth is golden yellow, changing to chartreuse. This is a climber that needs bright light, and the leaves get larger if grown vertically.

 

In the photo above, from left to right in the back:  Zamioculcas zamiifolia ‘Chameleon’, Aglonema spathomena, and Monstera standleyana albo-variegata. In front center is Tradescantia ‘Roxxo’.

Zamioculcas zamiifolia is a mouthful; most people just say “ZZ plant.” With ‘Chameleon’, the new foliage is bright yellow because the leaves do not have chlorophyll. This plant can survive in low light plant but you want to give it as much light as possible to encourage new growth, thus new yellow leaves. As the leaves age, the chlorophyll develops and the foliage becomes green. Aglonema spathomena looks like a spathiphyllum but there are no flowers. The foliage is variegated with dark and light green colors. Monstera standleyana albo-variegata is a creamy white variegated monstera plant. Unlike other monstera plants, the leaves do not have the Swiss cheese effect of holes in the foliage. Tradescantia ‘Roxxo’ is an upright form of tradescantia. The thick foliage is dark green with purple undersides.

Dieffenbachia ‘Cool Beauty’

For a fuller, bushy Dieffenbachia, try ‘Cool Beauty’ with green and white variegated leaves and white margins. This plant suckers (puts forth new stems) from the base. It can reach a foot tall — still a good height for a table.

Another new introduction that will appear on Costa Farms’ website soon is Alocasia ‘Jacklyn’. Jacklyn has very large, dark green, fuzzy leaves with reticulated stems (big word for color changes). This unusually hairy alocasia plant just screams ‘Amazon River’!

All of these plants would be great houseplants for your home. Explore their other plant collections on their website and sign up for their newsletter to learn of new plant introductions.

Alocasia ‘Jacklyn’

 

 

 

Mandevilla: Tropical Beauties Worth Keeping

mandevillaRecently I was given a mandevilla plant, which is a popular summer bloomer in the DC metro area.  I have always admired these vigorous climbers with bright, large, trumpet-shaped flowers. Usually, I see pink, red, or white blossoms, but there are other colors on the market. Continue reading

The Magical Flowers of Butterfly Pea Plants

In August 2017, I visited the Atlanta Botanical Garden. It was beautiful and I took many photos. As always the plants that stayed with me were the ones I had not seen before. I remember vines with beautiful pea-like flowers, about 2 inches wide, wrapped around dead trees, which were painted (“art”). The flowers were blue/purple with a yellow inner strip and the green leaves reminded me of Kentucky coffee trees. Obviously it was a tropical vine in the legume family (Fabaceae) but I could not find a sign. Later when I got home, I stumbled across the same plant on Facebook only with cobalt blue flowers. Its name, I learned, was butterfly pea (Clitoria ternatea).

The Facebook post said the flowers were used for an herbal tea. I had no idea this pretty vine had herbal qualities.  I researched online and discovered that the cobalt blue variety is well-known in Asian countries. The flowers are dried and sold in bags but one can purchase a powdered form or an extract. The flowers can be brewed alone or combined with other herbs such as lemongrass, ginger, and mint. The blue comes from anthocyanins, which are antioxidant compounds, similar to blueberries.

When brewed with water the tea is cobalt blue. However, when an acid is added, such as lemon juice, the tea turns purple. When an alkaline liquid such as roselle tea is added, the tea turns red. Apparently butterfly pea tea acts like a litmus strip, the color of the drink changes with the pH of what it is mixed with. This does not affect the taste but has transformed butterfly tea into a novelty cocktail drink. The cobalt blue flowers also are used to dye food such as custards, puddings, rice dishes, and sticky rice.

Butterfly pea is native to Africa. Here in Virginia it would be grown as an annual. The vine grows rapidly in the summer and needs support so an arbor is ideal but would be interesting to try it in a hanging basket. As a member of the pea family, the plant fixates nitrogen and is good for the soil. The vine can take full sun to light shade and is drought tolerant. There are several varieties, some have cobalt blue, lavender, or white flowers in single or double flowered forms.

This is not an easy plant to find here in Virginia but it seems that once you have the plant, you can let some flowers go to seed and collect the pods for next year. Last week I was in Florida and toured a friend’s garden. He was growing this plant in a large container with a trellis. I was so excited to see the butterfly pea again and explained how I was interested in growing it. He had a plastic bag full of the seed pods and offered me some. I took a handful of pods which by now had dried and split open and brought them home. This week, I plan to sow the seeds outside and grow butterfly pea plants in order to experiment with novelty drinks!