Monarda: Natives, Herbs, Beautiful Flowers and Pollinator Magnets

Monarda punctata

I have been on a Monarda kick lately. To me they have many facets: medicinal and culinary herb, pretty color, unusual flower structure, native plant, pollinator friendly, hummingbird favorite, etc., etc., etc. There are 17 species and two of the species, M. didyma and M. fistulosa, have been bred to produce many cultivars for the market. Usually, Monarda prefers moist soil in full sun to partial shade. Most are perennials that spread by rhizomes and can be “assertive” if given optimal conditions. M. didyma is more thuggish than the others.

Monarda didyma

Of all the species, M. didyma is most favored by hummingbirds because of the red, tubular flowers that are arranged in a whorl within a singular inflorescence. This plant was used by Native Americans for culinary and medicinal qualities. In fact, its common name, bee balm, comes from the practice of rubbing the foliage on the skin to alleviate the pain of bee stings. The foliage also can be used to make tea, hence its other common name, Oswego tea. In the 18th century, John Bartram, Philadelphia’s famed botanist, collected the seed in Oswego, New York. The leaves can either flavor a black tea or used as a substitute for traditional English tea, hence its popularity after the Boston tea party. I like using the red flowers to add color to a fruit salad.

Monarda fistulosa

I also planted M. fistulosa and it has thrived and multiplied. The inflorescence is similar to M. didyma but the tubular flowers are purple. My stand is about 3 feet tall. When it bloomed in early summer it provided a nice mass of purple color. This was not a hummingbird magnet, but butterflies liked it and the bees swarmed around the flowers. When the petals eventually fell off, the seed heads remained all summer long to the point that it looked like a different shrub altogether. M. fistulosa is called wild bergamot because its fragrance is similar to true bergamot (Citrus aurantium var. bergamia). Again, the leaves can be used to make tea or flavor a black tea plus the flowers are edible.

I purchased M. punctata (dotted bee balm) for its unique flower structure. The flower heads, which are more of a bleached green color, are stacked on top of each other, reminding me of the Dr. Seuss children’s books. This species is supposed to be resistant to powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that creates a white/gray powdery coating on the foliage in summer and early fall. This does not kill the plants but makes them unsightly and of course it makes it impossible to harvest the leaves for tea.

Monarda bradburiana seedheads (in August)

Last year, I bought M. bradburiana (eastern bee balm) at a plant sale, simply because it was a monarda I had not heard of before. This year it bloomed small flowers and the entire plant remained compact, less than 2 feet tall. The seed heads have stayed on all summer long. It has tolerated this hot summer very well with no signs of powdery mildew.

Early in the spring this year, I purchased two small plants of Monarda austroappalachiana. These are Tennessee natives and are supposed to be white flowered, resistant to powdery mildew, and less than 2 feet tall. The plants have survived but not thrived during this very hot summer so it may be a year or two before I can enjoy their full glory.

Next year I will grow Monarda citriodora (lemon bergamot), which, unlike the others in this article, is an annual. It has stacked purple flower heads and is supposed to be resistant to powdery mildew. I have read that the scent is not really lemon but more like camphor. The leaves can be used for tea and the flowers can be used for dried floral arrangements.

Of course, there are many cultivars of M. didyma at the nurseries, including compact types.  As fall approaches, you may find monarda plants on sale as many garden centers need to move their inventory of perennials. Add these to your garden for their multiple uses!

Monarda citriodora

Plant Now for the Fall and Winter Garden

mustard

mustard

August is the time for harvesting the summer’s bounty in the vegetable garden. But it is also the time to sow seeds for cool season veggies that thrive in the fall and winter. Even though it is hot and humid, by sowing now, your veggies will have the time to achieve maturity before day length gets too short. Also, it takes just a little longer to achieve maturity in the fall. But the good news is that often these plants are not bothered by as much disease and pests as in the summer.

Cool season crops include carrots, green onions (scallions), cauliflower, broccoli, broccoli raab, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, collards, spinach, Swiss chard, radish, turnip, and Asian or hardy greens such as mustard, tatsoi, mache, and kale. You still have time to plant garlic: that’s in October.

tatsoi

You can either purchase transplants from local garden centers or sow seed. To determine when to sow seed, look at the “days to maturity” on the seed packet. Count backwards from the average first frost date to determine when to plant. I use Halloween as my marker for a frost in Northern Virginia. When you are sowing seeds in the fall you have to take into account that day length is getting shorter. This “Short Day” factor is not addressed on the seed packet. If you are going to sow seed instead of purchasing a transplant from the garden center, you have to add 2 weeks to the numbers on the seed packet to allow for the cooler night temperatures and the shorter day lengths.  For example, to sow spinach seeds add 7 to 10 days for germination, 35 days to reach maturation, and 14 days for the Short Day factor for a total of 56 to 59 days.

One of the reasons why you start your seeds in August for a fall/winter garden is the Persephone period, where daylight starts to be less than 10 hours per day. When daylight is less than 10 hours, the plant stops growth. It is still alive, just “dormant” until daylight begins to increase a month later. This is based on latitude. Enter your zip code in the almanac website. Where I live, I entered November dates randomly in the almanac until I found a date close to 10 hours. I decided to use November 15, 2024, as the marker: it will be 10 hours and 5 minutes. I can then calculate that from August 1, I have 15 weeks to start a plant from seed to maturity. From September 1, it is 11 weeks. It is important to start the seeds early so the plant grows and is almost or at maturity before this stopping period. You want the plant to be mature before the Persephone period. Later in the winter/early spring when daylight increases, the plant will resume growth.

mache

mache

Also, find out the best temperature range for seed germination (start indoors versus outdoors), keep the seeds moist if starting outside in the hot, dry summer, and learn each crop’s tolerance for cold (soil and air) to know if you should provide additional warmth with row covers, cloches, or hoop tunnels in the winter. As the plant matures and frost comes, you may want to cover some crops to keep them alive during the winter and to harvest during the winter.

Even though it is still summer, start your cool season veggies now so they have time to mature before the day length is too short. You can always provide a little more warmth with coverage but you cannot control the day length. Below are handouts from Virginia and Maryland extension offices as well as a local seed company.

Virginia Cooperative Extension

Vegetable Planting Guide and Recommended Dates

University of Maryland Extension

Vegetable Planting Calendar

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange is a Virginia-based seed company that also has very useful local information: Fall and Winter Gardening Guide

Gallery

Best Performers in my Garden Despite the Heat

This gallery contains 11 photos.

This summer has been a real test – on me as a gardener and on my plants. Although I watered my veggies and some other more valuable plants as much as possible, there were some that I did not water … Continue reading →

Clara B. Plein Memorial Garden at River Farm

A section of the new garden.

The American Horticultural Society’s (AHS) River Farm in Alexandria, VA, has a new garden for the public to enjoy. The Clara B. Plein Memorial Garden showcases about 2,400 plants native to the region representing 30 species. Scott Plein, chairman of the AHS board, spearheaded the effort to create this garden in honor of his grandmother Clara.

“My first memories of being in the garden were at my grandparents’ home in DC,” said Scott.  “As a kid, I would spend summers there and sit with my grandmother in the backyard. I would tell her what I wanted to do with the landscape. She caught on that I had a great interest in her garden and in the landscape. The first lawn I cut was her lawn with a reel mower, which I still have. In the mid-1970s, she encouraged her friends to use my lawn mowing service. She bought my first new lawnmower. She was always there for me and supported me in my landscape business.”

Part of the new garden with the historic River Farm house (AHS headquarters) in the background.

Scott’s mowing business grew into KT Enterprises, Inc., a landscape development firm. In addition, Scott is principal of Equinox Investments, LLC, a real estate investment, development, and management firm.  As a Virginia native, he has been an AHS member for many years, but was just recently introduced to River Farm when the danger of losing the historic home and property became real in 2020 (situated on the Potomac River, River Farm is north of Mt. Vernon and was part of George Washington’s original tract of land). Scott was invited to be on the AHS board in 2021 and became chairman in 2022.

“I am very interested in the role horticulture plays in all of our lives which is why I am dedicated to helping AHS move forward,” explained Scott. “I also am an environment guy from the standpoint of seeing the need for balance between natural habitat and human habitat.”

As he got to know the historic property, he was inspired to create the Memorial Garden using native plants to attract and support pollinators. Another board member reached out to landscape architect Joan Honeyman of DC-based Jordan Honeyman Landscape Architecture, LLC, to see if she would be interested in designing the garden. Joan and Scott collaborated to create a design that incorporated the existing trees and as many Northern Virginia native plants as possible. Nothing of significance was on that particular tract of the property except the trees so the spaces between the trees were blank canvases.

“We made a concerted effort to design around the trees and not disturb the tree roots,” said Joan. “The area is segmented into a series of rooms that were based on the spaces left by the existing trees. We used predominantly Northern Virginia native plants and some native cultivars. We wanted to create a native plant habitat that attracted pollinators and that also had educational opportunities for visitors. We created mulched pathways for visitors to be able to see the plants and pollinators up close. We also plan to have signage, birdhouses, and places for visitors to sit.”

Another section of the new garden.

Because the soil and sun exposure varied, the actual plants varied but Joan purposely kept it simple. “The palette is limited. We did not want to have too many different varieties because it would have been harder to maintain but also it could have been deceiving to visitors who may think they can grow all of these plants. We used reliable native plants planted in great masses. Planting in mass makes it easier for pollinators to find and access the plants.”

What evolved were thematic pocket gardens: a woodland deciduous azalea and viburnum area; a transition or woods’ edge area; a meadow; shrubs and small trees that produce edible fruit; and a shade garden. “Something is blooming or has visual interest in each season,” explained Joan. “We also used basic design principles such as repetition so you may see the same plant to draw your eye along the edge of the garden and into the interior. Visitors may be inspired to try the same design principles and plants in their garden.” A list of the plants is on the AHS website.

In order to make Scott’s vision a reality, 15 local nurseries and landscape companies collaborated, donating plants, supplies, and labor. “We asked these companies if they could donate any of the plants on Joan’s list and they all donated something,” said Scott. The garden was planted in the fall of 2023; currently Ruppert Landscaping maintains the site. “Ruppert staff were great to work with,” said Joan. “Scott had the vision, and I was honored that he asked me to realize the memorial garden for him.”

On June 7, 2024, AHS held a private dedication ceremony. Scott gave a short speech and cut the ribbon while everyone toasted with the bubbly. Staff from the collaborating nurseries and landscape firms attended, as well as donors, dignitaries, River Farm friends, AHS board members and staff. It was a lovely summer evening, and I am sure Clara would have been proud to have been honored by a native plant garden on the Potomac River.

From left to right: Matt Zuccari (Ruppert), Sophia Ciallela (Ruppert), Cole Stoy (Ruppert), Scott Plein (White House Farm Foundation and American Horticultural Society), Joan Honeyman (Jordan Honeyman Landscape Architecture), Kris Alvarez (KT Enterprises), Matt Teese (South Riding Nurseries), and Matt Deivert (South Riding Nurseries)

All photos courtesy of the American Horticultural Society.

Lemon Eucalyptus: Like a Bowl of Fresh Lemons

A few years ago, I grew a lemon eucalyptus plant (Corymbia citriodora). I discovered it at a farmers market in Alexandria, VA, and the seller told me it was from Australia and was not hardy here in Zone 7 so it would have to be brought indoors in the fall. I had not seen one before so I was intrigued. This past weekend I saw them for sale at Greenstreet Gardens in Alexandria although the tag said “lemon bush” (photo to the left).

The lemon eucalyptus plant is great if you want a strong lemon scent for something like potpourri. It is also a medicinal herb; the leaves are used in traditional aboriginal medicine. The essential oil in the leaves is an antiseptic and is used in perfume. The plant is a rich source of citronella which is a mixture of many compounds including citronellol, citronellal and geraniol. The oil of eucalyptus is an effective mosquito deterrent. The plant itself cannot deter mosquitoes so don’t be fooled into thinking that a plant on the patio will keep you bug free.

There is a difference between the essential oil and the oil of eucalyptus. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has recognized oil of eucalyptus (OLE) as effective in deterring mosquitos. OLE contains p-Methane-3,8-diol (PMD), a naturally occurring compound obtained from the spent distillation of the leaves. PMD also can be synthesized in a laboratory. PMD is the only plant-based mosquito repellent that has been recognized by CDC to be effective in repelling mosquitoes while posing no risk to human health. However, children under the age of three should not use this because it can irritate the eyes. PMD has been registered by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as an effective plant-based mosquito repellent.

Lemon eucalyptus essential oil has a lower level of PMD and is not effective in repelling mosquitoes. The essential oil is made by steam distilling the leaves and twigs.

If you want a commercial, plant-based mosquito repellent, look for a product that lists “oil of lemon eucalyptus” as an active ingredient, which should provide up to six hours of protection.

My lemon eucalyptus plant thrived outside in the summer in a large container in full sun.  It grew several feet tall. The lemon scent was so strong, all you had to do was brush the leaves with your hand and you could visualize a bowl full of lemons.  Of all my lemon scented herbs — lemon balm, lemon grass, lemon verbena, lemon mint, lemon thyme, and lemon scented geranium – this was the most fragrant.

In its native habit, it would grow to be a tall evergreen tree and bloom tiny white flowers. Here in this area, you would have to bring the plant indoors in the fall to keep it alive. Or you can just purchase another one next year. I am glad to see it in nurseries now and I recommend growing this for its beautiful scent. The foliage should dry well (retain the scent) for potpourri or maybe even for wreaths.

Problems in the Garden? Ask These Experts

squash bugs

Summer is here and by now you are seeing a host of issues in your garden. If it isn’t Japanese beetles eating your roses, it’s deformed tomatoes and bugs on the squash. But don’t worry, there are plenty of resources for help in our area. One of the first places you should go to is your local Master Gardeners group and county extension agents.

Help in Northern Virginia

In Northern Virginia, there are two Master Gardener groups. People who live in Arlington and Alexandria are probably familiar with the Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia. They have an excellent website with plenty of resources. If you have a gardening question, you can contact the Extension Master Gardeners Help Desk via phone, in person at their office, or via email at mgarlalex@gmail.com. This is a service for the public. You do not have to be a master gardener, live in those areas, or pay anything. The people answering the questions are volunteer Master Gardeners and County Extension Agents.

Japanese beetles will decimate rose bushes

The second option is to contact the Fairfax County Master Gardeners Help Desk by calling or e-mailing at mgfairfax@vt.edu. This is a service of the Fairfax County Master Gardeners but again, you do not have to be a master gardener, you do not have to live in Fairfax County, and you do not have to pay anything. The reason why there are two Master Gardener groups in Northern Virginia is because the demand for the Master Gardener program is so high. This group also has an informative website.

Master Gardeners staff plant clinics at libraries and farmers markets. If you have a diseased plant or a particular pest issue, it helps to bring a cutting so they can identify the problem.

Help in Maryland

In Maryland, there is the Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC) which is managed by the University of Maryland Extension. You can e-mail via a form and questions are answered by horticulturists. In the form, describe the problem and attach photos, if needed. The website lists a few suggestions: include an object to indicate scale for insects; attach both a close-up as well as the entire plant; send a photo of the entire weed plant with flower or seed head; and, if seeking a plant disease diagnosis, send photos showing the transition from healthy to diseased. This is a free service and the HGIC will assist Maryland and DC residents. This website also has a lot of great gardening information.

Leaf hoppers can spread viruses from plant to plant

Plant clinics are by county so just enter “plant clinic” and the county name to see if there is a schedule. Or the county name and “master gardeners” to see if they provide this service in another format.

There is a DC Master Gardener program but they do not provide plant diagnostics which is why DC residents are encouraged to contact the HGIC.

Other Options

One other option is the “Ask Extension” website, which is a portal for the Cooperative Extension System. Your question would be sent to the appropriate extension office within your state. (If you type in Washington DC you will be redirected to the Maryland HGIC.) Questions are answered by cooperative extension/university staff and volunteers within participating land grant institutions across the United States. In Maryland the land grant institution is the University of Maryland and in Virginia it is Virginia Tech. Again, a free service to the public across the country. Complete the form by entering your state, gardening question, e-mail, the county and state where you live, and the images, if needed.

caterpillar

Caterpillar form of the Eastern swallowtail butterfly which loves to eat foliage of parsley, dill and fennel

At many independent garden centers, such as Merrifield Garden Center, there are help desks with staff horticulturists who can help you with your gardening issues. Call your local nursery to see if they have professional staff who can help.

Of course, there are always gardening books at the local public libraries. Remember, do not get stressed about your garden. This is all part of the process. Figuring out what is wrong with a plant is part of gardening because gardening is a learning experience.

Deformed Flowers? It May Be Aster Yellows

If you have noticed that your coneflowers (Echinacea) or black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia) are looking strange, they may have “aster yellows” which is caused by a phytoplasma, a small bacterium. This is a disease that affects more than 300 species of plants, including asters, coneflowers, zinnias, marigolds, heleniums, and chrysanthemums. It also appears on vegetables such as garlic, lettuce, carrots, tomatoes, and celery.

Aster yellows is primarily transmitted via leafhoppers. Leafhoppers are small insects, only a few centimeters long, with wedge-shaped, brown, yellow, or green bodies. As the name suggests, they quickly hop from plant to plant. When a leafhopper feeds on a plant infected with aster yellows, the pathogen enters the leafhopper’s body and stays within for as long as that leafhopper lives. So as it feeds on plants and moves around from plant to plant, it spreads the phytoplasma thus spreading the disease. Once a plant is infected, if it is not removed, it remains a host plant — a source of phytoplasma for the rest of the plants in the garden.

Symptoms vary depending on the plant but in my garden, the flowers are grossly deformed. The flower heads are twisted and some are producing small tufts of green growth in the center of the flower. Some petals are too short or green–often there is more green than the color the flower should be. Once plants are infected, they should be removed from the garden. They cannot be cured.

The only thing you can do to prevent aster yellows is to remove and destroy diseased plants as soon as possible to prevent the spread, control weeds which may harbor the disease, and purchase ornamentals that are not as susceptible such as verbena, salvia, nicotiana, geraniums, impatiens, and cockscomb.

If your plant does look weird but you are not sure if it is because of aster yellows, take a clipping to a local plant clinic (usually at farmer’s markets or libraries) or ask your extension agent.

Growing Cucamelons

cucamelonRecently I grew cucamelons and I recommend growing this veggie for its ease and taste and as a fun kid project. Cucamelon has a variety of common names: Mexican sour gherkins, mouse melons, pepquinos, sandita, and Mexican miniature watermelons. The Latin name is Melathria scabra and they truly are in the cucumber family.

Cucamelons are vining, perennial plants that produce small, inch-long fruit. The fruit can be eaten raw or pickled like cucumbers. Native to Mexico and central America, cucamelons prefer the summer’s warmth.

You may not see the plants in local nurseries but they are easy to grow from seed. You can start the seed indoors under lights like tomato seeds and move out to the garden after danger of frost has passed. Or you can start from seed in May outside after the danger of frost has past. Like cucumber plants, they produce vines but these are very slender vines reaching up to 7 or 10 feet.  Mine grew on an A-frame trellis about 4 feet tall and wide.  Two plants covered one side, climbed over the other side, and are now running across the ground. Because the vines are slender (and not spiny) they are easy to pick up and drape over the frame. The plant is much more robust than regular cucumbers, they certainly are more disease resistant.

mousemelons

I grow other cucumbers as well and by July they have diseased foliage and the plants just peter out. The cucamelons were thriving in July despite Virginia’s heat and humidity.

Cucamelons produce small yellow flowers and green/white variegated fruit, exactly like a miniature watermelon. They taste like a cucumber but not as juicy,  cool or refreshing. We ate them raw as a snack. They can be added to a green salad, cold pasta salad, or a rice salad. They can be pickled or used to make a relish. They can even be used as a garnish in cocktails.

If I had known these vines would be so healthy, I would have placed them on my new privacy fence. They can serve double duty, covering a screen or fence and producing edible fruit. They would be great for children’s teepees or small hideaway places as long as the children are not too young. Because cucamelons are so small they can be a choking hazard for very young children. Although they can be grown in containers, they would still need a trellis system.

fruit

Because the fruit’s coloring does not change as it matures, sometimes it is hard to tell when to pick them. The mature size is the size of a large grape, and should be a little tender. When you squeeze, it should give a little. If it is hard and does not give, it is overripe and may taste bitter. But these can be used for pickling. It is best to harvest early and often.

I highly recommend planting cucamelons. They are easy to grow, disease resistant, and very productive.

Curry Plant, Curry Tree, Curry Leaf

curry plant

Curry plant blooming in June

Recently I gave a presentation on Asian culinary herbs from a gardener’s perspective. The goal was to identify those Asian culinary herbs that we can grow in the mid-Atlantic area for the summer. Also, because some of the plants are difficult to find here, I provided seed and plant resources.

One of the herbs I talked about was the curry tree. There are actually two plants with curry in the name, one is a culinary herb, and one is an ornamental plant that performs well here in Virginia.

The culinary herb is curry tree or curry leaf (Murraya koenigii), a southeast Asian small tree maturing at 10 to 15 feet, hardy to zone 10. We are not likely to find this for sale in this area, but it can be ordered online and grown in the home as a small plant. It is easy to find the foliage in Asian supermarkets. The leaves are used fresh but if you have too many you can freeze them. Although the leaves are used in curry dishes, chutneys, and soups, they do not have a strong curry fragrance. Interestingly, I found a few recipes online for making bread with chopped up curry leaves. I bought a package for the presentation and now have a bag of leaves so I am going to experiment with the Murraya to see how I can use it in the kitchen. Although associated with Asian dishes, many of the herbs I talked about could be used in other cuisines or in other ways. The bread intrigues me so I will try that first.

curry leaf

Curry leaf

I explained in the presentation that there is another curry plant, an ornamental garden plant, called Helichrysum italicum. This plant has been in my garden for several years. Now in June it is about 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide and blooming. I love it because brushing against the shrub releases a lovely fragrance of curry spices, as if you were in an Indian restaurant. This plant is available at most nurseries in this area. It hails from Turkey and is a full sun, drought resistant, deer resistant, silvery shrub. I purposely bought it for a place in my garden that receives very little rain and is in a hot southern exposure area of my property. The plant is hardy to zone 7. So far, no animals or pests have bothered it. It is blooming little yellow flowers now, attracting beneficial insects. The flowers retain their shape and color, which make them ideal for dried flower arrangements and potpourris.

You can grow both: the Helichrysum outside and Murraya inside. But only cook with the Murraya!

snow on curry plant

Snow on curry plant

Dill: Easy, Versatile Herb to Grow

dill flower headsDill (Anethum graveolens) is easy to grow from seed. I just throw a few seed in a large plastic container on my deck in late March. I don’t worry about frost or cold nights but I do make sure the top of the soil is moist until I see the foliage emerge. Here in Virginia, we seem to have plenty of rain or snow in March so the seeds do not dry out. In May, when the garden soil is warmer, I lift the seedlings out with a trowel and plant in the garden bed in full sun.

Native to the Mediterranean area, dill is a member of the carrot family (Apiaceae). Dill is an annual that may re-seed in the garden. Usually dill foliage, also called dill weed, is used for culinary purposes. It can be used fresh or dried — dried dill weed retains the flavor well. Fresh foliage is great in egg dishes, fish, tomato salads, cucumber salads, cooked carrots, fresh veggie dishes and even dill butter. In the winter, dried dill can be used for canned veggies, egg dishes, and tuna salad.  It is easy to dry the foliage, just wash and let dry flat on paper towels for a few weeks, then store in a glass jar.dill (2)

Dill also is a medicinal herb. The name means to calm or soothe and dill was used to calm troubled stomachs and colicky infants. It is a very old herb that was used by Greeks and Romans.

Dill can be grown in containers or in the ground. However, since some varieties can be several feet tall, the containers need to be heavy and large enough so winds won’t knock the plant over. Dill also is a host plant for butterflies. You may see the distinctive caterpillars of the black swallowtails on the foliage. They can decimate the foliage very quickly so plant some for you and some for them.

dill pl

Dill tends to flower quickly in the summer. You may be able to sow again up until mid-summer.  The flowers are actually beneficial to the garden, they attract the good bugs. The flowers are edible and can be used to garnish a dish. They can be used in floral arrangements and there are specific cultivars that produce large flower heads for this purpose.

However, once the plants flower, they set seed and the plant itself starts to put energy into the seed and not the foliage. It is easy to save the seed because they are all in one structure called an umbel. When the seeds are brown, simply cut the umbel and drop into a large paper bag. Let dry for a few weeks, then put the umbel on a plate or in a large bowl and rub the seeds off. Store seeds in a glass jar and either use them in the kitchen or plant them next year. Seeds can be used in baking, breads, or crackers.

The plant as well as seed packets should be easy to find in local nurseries but if you cannot find dill, check out these seed companies.