Category Archives: flowers

Fall Bloomers: Mexican Sunflowers

Mexican sunflowerMexican sunflowers (Tithonia rotundifolia) are very tall, fall blooming annuals. Usually the blossoms are about 3 inches wide, daisy-shaped and orange. Bees and butterflies love the flowers, which are also good for cut flower arrangements.

When Mexican sunflower blooms from September to frost, the sun is at an angle and the light is softer, so the orange is quite nice in the garden. It is not a garish color at all and really blends well with the whole pumpkin fall theme.

The nice thing about this plant is that it is easy to grow from seed and it is easy to collect the seed. When the flower head is past its prime and the resulting seed head is mature, the flower head turns brown and bends down so it is obvious when to cut and save the seed. I cut off the seed heads and save them in a paper bag. In the winter, I separate the actual seed, package them, and give to friends.seedhead

These plants are not fussy. They need full sun, tolerate poor but well-drained soil, should not be fertilized, and are deer resistant. They may need to be staked but there are shorter cultivars on the market. Fiesta del Sol, an All-America Selection (AAS) flower winner in 2000, is the first dwarf at 3 feet tall, making it perfect for containers. Goldfinger is 3 feet tall with orange and gold flowers. Torch is a 1951 AAS flower award winner and Yellow Torch has apricot yellow orange flowers. Both of these can grow to 4 to 6 feet tall. All the plants bloom from September until frost here in the DC metro area.

Try growing Mexican sunflowers, you will be pleasantly surprised at the pretty fall flowers and intense pollinator activity. I linked to companies that I know have the cultivars mentioned above but for a list of more than 100 seed companies, many of which carry the species as well as the cultivars, click here.

Growing and Dividing Bearded Irises

Bearded irises (Iris germanica) are popular perennials in this area, grown for their stunning flowers. So named because of their fuzzy “beards” in the three downward falling petals, bearded irises bloom from spring through summer and make excellent cut flowers.

These plants are grown from rhizomes, which are underground stems. The rhizomes multiply each year and can be divided easily. In fact, they should be lifted and divided about every 5 years. June and July are the best times to divide.

To divide, cut the foliage back to about 6 inches. Dig around the perimeter of the planting to loosen the rhizomes with a gardener’s fork. Using your hands, lift the plantings. Brush off the soil, and remove and trash any diseased, rotten, or old woody parts of the rhizomes. Look for the iris borers and if you see them or damage caused by them, remove and trash. Separate the rhizomes so that each one has a fan of leaves. Save only healthy rhizomes with foliage attached.

Spread out and bury the roots and bury the rhizomes deep enough for them to remain stable but shallow enough so their top sides are exposed. Do not mulch. Plant about 12 to 24 inches apart, depending on the plant’s mature size. Water thoroughly and water until established.

Bearded irises should be planted in well-drained soil, in full sun, and with good air circulation. Soil with too much clay should be amended with organic matter or compost to improve the drainage. When they are established, they are drought tolerant. Deer are not interested in bearded irises.

These irises benefit from deadheading and a shot of fertilize in the summer. To minimize pests, the foliage is trimmed to about 6 inches in the fall. Throw away the foliage, do not put in the compost pile.

The American Iris Society (AIS) has a local region, Region IV, for Virginia, Maryland, and DC. If you are interested in joining or learning of iris shows and sales, visit the Region IV website. AIS has divided the bearded iris into six groups, listed below in order of earliest to latest bloom time and shortest to tallest sizes.

  • Miniature Dwarf Bearded (MDB): These are 4 to 8 inches tall, earliest to bloom, and used in rock gardens or planted in drifts. The flowers are small, one to 2 inches across. They can bloom as early as March, depending on the zone.
  • Standard Dwarf Bearded (SDB): These are 8 to 16 inches tall, the flowers are larger, and tend to bloom early in spring (April). They are best grown in clumps.
  • Intermediate Bearded (IB): These are 16 to 27 ½ inches tall and bloom in April and May and can be grown in clumps or along a garden border.
  • Border Bearded (BB):  These are 16 to 27 ½ inches tall and bloom in early summer, same time as Tall Bearded but with a shorter height.
  • Miniature Tall Bearded (MTB): These are 16 to 27 ½ inches tall. The stems are thinner, and the flower sizes are smaller than Border Bearded and Tall Bearded but bloom at the same time. Often called table irises because they are good for cut arrangements.
  • Tall Bearded (TB): These are 27 ½ inches tall and taller and may need staking. They have a lot of branching and many buds. Typically, these are summer bloomers but the timing of the bloom varies with the cultivar so they can bloom from late spring to early summer.

Because there are thousands of cultivars, it may be best to choose from award-winning irises listed on the AIS or Region IV websites. Each year, the AIS gives awards to the different classification of irises, including the six types of bearded irises. In addition, the AIS sponsors the tall bearded iris symposium, which is an annual popularity poll of tall bearded irises. AIS members and nonmembers may vote. The top irises are ranked, and the results are published on the website. The list provides the plant’s rank in the current year and previous year, cultivar name, votes received, hybridizer’s name, introduction year, bloom season, height, and a brief description of the flower color.

Bearded irises are available at local garden centers. For a wider variety, check out these bulb companies. Try growing these in your garden this year!

May Is Dahlia Planting Time

May is dahlia planting time — when you know for sure that there will be no chance of frost. Like chrysanthemums, many people associate dahlias with the fall but dahlias can bloom from the beginning of summer to frost. Dahlia flowers are available in a wide range of sizes, colors, and shapes. Each bloom can be 2 inches across to more than 10 inches, in all colors except blue. Plants can reach one to 6 feet tall. Some plants have beautiful dark foliage instead of green leaves. Although there are 40 plus species there are thousands of cultivars. In addition, there are numerous forms such as the single, peony, anemone, collerette, star or single orchid, double orchid, cactus, waterlily, ball, and pompom.

Planting Tubers or Seed

To grow dahlias, you can either purchase tubers, start them from seed, or buy small containers of dahlias already started from the nursery. If you purchase a tuber that is a named variety you will know exactly what the plant will look like. Plus, if you purchase cultivars that have been trialed and proven to do well in this area, you will have a good chance of success. With dahlias, it is important to purchase one that is known to do well in your area.  It is best to ask for recommendations from local dahlia growers. Seed is cheaper than tubers but there is a lot of variability with plant vigor and flower color. Although the seed will grow and produce a plant with pretty flowers for the garden, the flowers may not be exhibition quality.

Tubers can be planted outside in warm soil with temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees minimum. Tubers also can be started indoors in April in containers under fluorescent lights or by the window to initiate growth. Seed should be started indoors under lights because planting seed in cold soil may retard the germination rate. Starting seed outdoors in May will only delay the time to reach blooming stage.

Caring for Dahlias

“Put the tuber in a four-inch hole and cover so that it is just peeking through. This way you can see the growth. When it grows, add more soil,” advises John Spangenberg, member of the National Capital Dahlia Society and owner of Crazy 4 Dahlias. John is a long time dahlia enthusiast who also sells tubers from his website.

Growing a dahlia plant is similar to growing a tomato plant: full sun and plenty of water and food. A dahlia can grow in less than 6 hours of sun but would not produce as many flowers. After planting the tubers, insert stakes such as tomato cages, peony hoops, or posts. In the beginning, dahlias will require plenty of water, generally one inch of water per week. Dahlias are heavy feeders and will need fertilizer throughout the summer. Seaweed-based liquid fertilizers or slow release fertilizers work well. Dahlias appreciate a leaf or straw mulch to keep the tubers cool and to prevent weeds.

Encouraging More Flowers

In the beginning of the growing season, John recommends topping the plants to encourage bushier, sturdier plants with more flowers. The center bud (not flower bud but central growth) should be pinched back. “When you see three to four sets (or pairs) of leaves, break the center top off,” explained John.

Later in the season when flower buds appear, disbud or cut off smaller, lateral flower buds to encourage the top bud to form a single, larger flower. When a dahlia flowers, there are three stems with three buds in a v-shape. When the outer two smaller buds are the size of peas they should be cut leaving the center flower bud.

“The more you cut your flowers, the more flowers you get,” said John. If you don’t cut a flower for a vase, make sure you at least deadhead them. Deadheading is cutting off and disposing flowers that are past their prime to encourage the plant to produce more flowers. For the vase, it is best to cut flowers in the morning when the weather is cool and the plant is most turgid.

Saving Tubers in the Fall

Dahlias are native to Mexico. In this area they are treated as tender perennials and may or may not come back the following year. To ensure that the plants can be grown again next year, most gardeners lift and store the tubers in October.

“In the fall when get the first frost, cut the plant a couple of inches above the ground and let sit for a week or dig them up,” explained John. “You want to have the eyes develop and swell to be able to see them well. It helps to see the eyes when dividing the tubers. You can divide in the spring or fall but it is easier to divide in the fall.”

Dahlia tubers are swollen roots. Each tuber has to have an “eye,” which is a growing point in order to grow. From that eye the stem will emerge. In May, a single tuber with an eye is planted for a single plant. In the fall, when the plant is lifted out of the ground, there will be more new tubers joined together in an area called the crown. The “eyes,” or viable growing points, are in the crown. This can be stored as is or divided to create more plants.

John uses vermiculite in a box to store his tubers but there are many methods to store tubers. He finds vermiculite works best because it absorbs and releases moisture. Tubers should be in the coolest place in the house where there is constant temperature such as a crawl space or basement or a closet next to the outer wall of the house.

Because they are native to Mexico, one would think that dahlias would be easy to grow here with our sunny, warm summers. In fact, dahlias are native to a mountainous region in Mexico with more wind, less humidity, and cooler temperatures. Thus dahlias grow very well in the Pacific Northwest but have some difficulty in the mid-Atlantic. They need quite a bit of water, yet as heavy feeders, the rain can leach the nutrients. Plus the humidity can encourage disease. “In this area, we have issues with slugs, earwigs, rabbits, groundhogs, and deer,” said John. “Plus we have noticed that Japanese beetles prefer white and yellow flowered dahlias.”

Selecting Dahlias for Washington DC Metro Area

To choose a dahlia that performs well here, look to the National Capital Dahlia Society for recommendations. A branch of the American Dahlia Society (ADS), the National Capital Dahlia Society is comprised of dahlia enthusiasts and breeders who meet on a regular basis. They have events and shows that may be open to the public to see blossoms and to be able to ask experts questions in person.

The Society manages a trial garden at the Agricultural History Park in Derwood, MD. “The display garden is a trial garden to test new introduction from across the country to see how they do here. We look at bloom quality and plant vigor and report this to the American Dahlia Society,” said John.

To learn more, check out the National Capital Dahlia Society website which also has a calendar of events. Attend a show, usually in the fall, to see the variety of flower colors and shapes and to be able to speak with experts.

Winter Sowing Snapdragons

This year I am winter sowing snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus), which are annuals that prefer to bloom in the cool spring season. Easy to grow from seed, snapdragons have been bred extensively. There are cultivars with traditional “snap” flowers, open-faced flowers, or double flowers in all colors except for blue. There are dwarfs (6-15 inches), intermediate (15-30 inches), and tall snapdragons (30-48 inches) as well as trailing varieties. These plants are very versatile. They can be grown in rock gardens, containers, hanging baskets, or in the garden.

Snapdragons need full sun and moist but well drained soil high in organic matter. Although they are known for blooming in the spring, if kept watered in the summer and deadheaded, they could bloom again.

Madame Butterfly is an excellent cut flower type and a 1970 All-America Selections Flower Winner

I winter sow snapdragons for several reasons: 1) starting from seed provides a wider range of varieties; 2) starting from seed is cheaper; and 3) winter sowing gives me a jump on the spring season.

In early spring, I will open up the milk jug and transplant the seedlings into the garden. They can take a light frost.

Snapdragons make an excellent cut flower. They need to be deadheaded to encourage a long blooming period. The florets start opening at the bottom of the flower spike first so remove those spent flowers first. Or just cut the entire flower head when blooms are past their prime but cut at the base of the plant.

When cutting the flowers for the vase, cut when a few florets have opened at the bottom and the top buds are still closed. Cut the stem at the base, near the ground and strip off the lower leaves. Cut snapdragons last several weeks.

Try growing snapdragons in your garden this year for deer resistant, cool season flowers.

Snap Doubleshot Yellow Red Heart is a 2025 All-America Selections Ornamental Seed Winner

 

Bottom two photos are courtesy of All-America Selections.

Color Your Cocktail with Butterfly Pea

Often seen in cocktails on social media, butterfly pea plants (Clitoria ternatea) are vines that bloom beautiful pea-like flowers, about 2 inches wide. Typically, flowers are cobalt blue with a yellow inner strip. A member of the legume family (Fabaceae), the green leaves are similar to Kentucky coffee trees.

The flowers are also available in white,  lavender, and a pale light blue, single or double flower, but the cobalt blue is well-known in Asian countries. The flowers are dried and sold in bags, or in powdered form, or as an extract. A tea is made with the flowers, which can be brewed alone or with other herbs such as lemongrass, ginger, and mint.

When brewed with boiling water the tea is blue and can be drunk like an herbal tea. However, when an acid is added, such as lemon juice, the tea turns purple. When an alkaline liquid such as roselle tea is added, the tea turns red. Butterfly pea tea acts like a litmus strip, the color of the drink changes with the pH of what it is mixed with. This does not affect the taste but has transformed butterfly tea into a novelty cocktail drink. You will find lots of cocktail drinks made with the flowers on the internet. The blue flowers also are used to dye food such as custards, puddings, rice dishes, and sticky rice.

Butterfly pea is native to Africa. Here in Virginia it is grown as an annual which grows rapidly in the summer up a trellis or obelisk. As a member of the pea family, the plant fixates nitrogen, which is good for the soil. The vine can take full sun to light shade and is drought tolerant.

I have not seen the plant sold at local garden centers but you can order seeds online. It is relatively easy to grow from seed and once you have a mature plant, you can let some flowers go to seed to save the seed pods. Save the pods and split open when dried to reveal the seeds. Save the seeds to grow next year.

Here are a few online seed companies: Eden Brothers, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds,  Park Seed, Strictly Medicinal Seeds, and Hudson Valley Seed Company. Include the butterfly pea with your 2025 seed order and try growing magical flowers!

A Great Houseplant: Anthurium

When I was young, we lived in Thailand and my mother (who grew up in Milwaukee) would buy plants and orchids from the market. I remember one houseplant in particular. The beautiful flowers were so waxy they looked like they had been polished with furniture polish. The red flowers would last for months. We did not know the names of the plants but we enjoyed their exotic beauty. Now that I am older, I know the waxy plants are called anthuriums. Although I associate them with tropical Asian countries, they really hail from South America tropical environments.

Anthuriums are members of the Araceae or arum family. The “flower,” the red, heart-shaped part, is a modified leaf called a spathe. The actual flowers are tiny and appear in the center vertical structure called the spadix. The “flower” lasts a long time, making them ideal for cut flower arrangements.

As a houseplant, anthuriums can grow in low light conditions. However, the more light you can provide the more likely it will bloom throughout the year. It definitely does not like moist soil. Water when the soil is dry to the touch. Anthuriums are easy, low maintenance plants, perfect for the home and office.

Usually one sees red-flowering plants at the hardware store or nursery but pink, green and white, and purple colored cultivars are available. There is even a black flower cultivar called ‘Black Love‘. My plant was less than ten dollars at the local hardware store but it was very root bound in a 4-inch pot so check your plant’s roots after you purchase it.

Anthuriums are the perfect winter houseplant: the flowers last a long time and the plant has an exotic, year round appeal. Try growing this easy houseplant or purchase one as a hostess gift when you visit family and friends this year.

Popcorn Lantana

Recently I visited the JC Raulston Arboretum in North Carolina and came across popcorn lantana (Lantana trifolia). This brought back memories. Years ago, Adrian Higgins, former Washington Post garden writer, wrote about this plant after he saw it at Green Spring Gardens in Alexandria, VA. I remember thinking at the time, what a unique plant!

Popcorn lantana is cousin to Lantana camara, the other lantana that is sold at local garden centers in the beginning of the summer. Treated as an annual, the flower colors of Lantana camara are “warm” — red, orange, or yellow. Popcorn lantana has lavender flowers with a random spot of yellow. Although the flowers are pretty, popcorn lantana is named for its “popcorn” like fruit. The flowers bloom along a 3-inch spike, first flowering at the bottom. After they bloom, they produce a small spherical fruit that looks like a purple metallic bead. Eventually, there are spikes of glossy purple beads.

These are full sun, drought resistant plants that prefer well drained soil. Butterflies love the flowers, and popcorns appear from late summer to fall. The entire plant can reach about 3 feet tall and wide. Like the other lantana plants, though, these are tender perennials, hardy to zone 10, so they will not survive our winters.

I looked online for a seed source but could not find any. I did find one plant source but since winter is approaching, I may purchase the plant next spring. If you know of a seed or plant source, please share in the comments section.

 

Save Your Geraniums for Next Year

Red geraniums in a large container in May

When my mother lived in Vienna, Virginia, she grew red geraniums in large containers by the front door. Every fall she would pull the plants out of the containers, knock off the excess soil, and place the plants on a shelf in the basement. There was one small window allowing very little light. The following summer, she would pot these up again outside and these plants would come back to life. She did this because her mother, who lived in Wisconsin, also saved geraniums in the fall. However, her mother had a sunny foyer so she would cut her plants back, repot them in smaller containers, and treat them as small indoor plants inside. Both methods worked well. Geraniums can take quite a bit of dryness which is what makes them ideal for overwintering.

If you are growing geraniums consider saving them for next year. Not everyone has a sunny foyer but most people in this area have a basement. For the basement method, this month, before frost, lift the plant out of the container. Shake the soil off and cut off diseased parts and the flowers. Let the plant dry for a few days in the shade so that excess moisture will evaporate. Then place the plant in a large paper bag and close with a binder clip.  Store the bag in the coolest place in the basement.

Periodically, check the plant to see if it is getting too dry or, conversely, moldy. If moldy, just cut and throw away those parts.  If too dry, soak the roots in water for a few hours and then dry and put back in the bag. Eventually, the foliage will die off but that is okay.  In the beginning of April, put the plant in a small container with drainage holes. It may look dead but water, warmth, and light should bring it back to life. Water the plant so water runs out of the drainage holes. Place the container in a room where it is warmer and lighter than the basement. This will trigger the plant to leaf out again. After the average last frost date (Mother’s Day in Virginia), put the container outside. Put it in shade first in order for it to acclimate to the increased sunlight. Gradually, move the container to a full sun location. You can either pot up the plant into a larger, ornamental container, pot up with other plants in a large container, or even plant in your garden for the summer.

If you have geraniums, now is the time to think about saving them so you can enjoy them again next summer. This method should enable you to enjoy your geraniums for many years to come.

Pink and red geraniums in the landscape in August

Mandevilla or Dipladenia? What’s the Difference?

Dipladenia ‘White Halo’ in my garden

In past years, I have grown Mandevilla plants but this year I have a Dipladenia growing in a container. I know the name is a mouthful, they have to come up with an easier name to pronounce, let alone spell. My Dipladenia is a Flordenia type which is supposed to be more floriferous, stronger branching, and heat and drought tolerant. I have White Halo which of course has white flowers.

Both Mandevilla and Dipladenia plants are popular tropical plants. They bloom all summer long in full sun, undaunted by dry spells.  The flowers are very similar, trumpet-shaped, in a range of white, pink, reds, yellow and even peach.

But there is one distinct difference between the two.

Mandevilla with hoya-like foliage

Mandevilla is a vining plant; it climbs up to the sunlight. You purchase it with the intent to cover an arbor, pergola, or obelisk. The stems and foliage remind me of a hoya plant (in fact, they are cousins). The leaves seem larger than the Dipladenia, pointed and glossy. However, if you purchased a Mandevilla and would like to grow it as a shrub, you can just prune it.

A Dipladenia is a shrub, it will not climb up a structure. This makes it perfect for containers and hanging baskets. The foliage is smaller, more compact, and more matte than glossy. The space between nodes (joints where leaves arise) is shorter than the Mandevilla. It is more of a slow grower while a Mandevilla will grow fast to cover a structure. Although they both have trumpet-shaped flowers, to me the Dipladenia flowers appear flatter with a shallow throat.

Dipladenia with compact foliage

Both are full sun, drought tolerant with no need to deadhead (the older I get the more important this is to me). They attract pollinators and are deer and rabbit resistant.

As fall approaches, they can be kept overwinter in order to plant in the garden the following year (these are not cheap plants). There are several ways to do this depending on the space and light in your house. You can root 4 to 6-inch stem cuttings and grow them inside as houseplants. You can give your plant a good trim in the fall, up to one half of the foliage to reduce transpiration, bring the plant in and place in a sunny, cool location and water less often. Or you can cut the foliage back severely, place the plant in a cool, dark place and stop watering. Let it go dormant for the winter but check on it so it does not dry out completely.

Don’t be surprised if containers of Mandevilla and Dipladenia get mixed up at the local garden centers. Most people do not recognize the difference. Regardless, they are great investments for constant summer blooms especially when we have dry summers such as this one.

Mandevilla

Fall-Blooming Obedient Plant

Obedient Plant

Obedient Plant

A familiar fall bloomer in this area is obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana). Thomas Jefferson grew these natives at Monticello, and George Washington had plantings at Mt. Vernon. Philadelphia plantsman John Bartram also grew them and sold them in his catalog.

Obedient plants are “passalong” plants, easily divided and shared.  My plants came from a friend who pulled a clump from her garden several years ago. My original plant has thrived and spread via rhizomes (underground stems) but only a few feet in the same garden bed. Not too much but just enough to provide extra plants to share and abundant flowers to cut for an arrangement.

These perennials prefer moist, well-drained soils in full sun. They are great for wildlife gardens, sunny meadow gardens, and rain gardens. The flowers of these deer-resistant plants attract bumblebees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

The name “obedient” comes from the fact that if you twist the individual flowers, they stay in that new position for some time, hence they are “obedient.”

Obedient plants provide vertical interest and a wash of pink in the fall, when you least expect it.  I prefer the pink flowering variety, but there are obedient plants with white flowers (‘Alba’) and even green and white variegated leaves (‘Variegata’).

In the spring, the emerging stems are easy to identify. They are square shaped, a mint family characteristic, and they have chocolate brown, vertical strips running up and down the green stems. Being shallow-rooted, I can easily pull unwanted plants if I have to but could just as easily share with my gardening club. If unwanted growth is a concern, try ‘Miss Manners’ (white flowers) or ‘Pink Manners’ (pink flowers), both of which are known to maintain a clumping habit.

Hardy to zone 3, they are easy to grow and do not need fertilizing or deadheading. If you have friends who have these in their gardens, ask for a clump in the spring so you do not ruin the fall display. However, they are easy to find at local garden centers. Try growing this native plant in your garden for fall beauty.