Tag Archives: shrubs

Create More Shrubs with Stem Cuttings

Weigela shrub, ready for stem cuttings

Plant propagation is just a fancy word for making more plants from what you have. I love to propagate the plants in my garden. To me it is magical that an entire shrub can be created from cutting six inches off the stem. Taking stem cuttings is an easy way to make more shrubs to fill in gaps in the garden or to share plants with gardening friends.

Summer is a good time to take “softwood” stem cuttings of shrubs. The term “softwood” relates to the time of year the cutting is done — usually May through July. This is the point where a deciduous shrub’s new spring growth starts to become semi-woody but still supple enough to root easily. The shrub’s stem must have new growth but be firm enough to snap. If you can grasp the end of the branch about 6 inches from the top, bend it at a 90-degree angle and it snaps and breaks off, it is ready. Depending on the plant and your comfort zone, it may not be necessary to use a rooting hormone.

The best time to take cuttings is in the early morning when the plant is turgid, not wilted from the day’s heat. Cut from the tip of stem, about 5-6 inches down, ensuring that there are several nodes. The node is the point where additional stems/branches arise but also the point in which there is a higher chance of roots stimulation. First cut above the node on the shrub and then make a second cut on the stem, just under the last node. Remove the bottom leaves and insert the cutting into water, then a rooting hormone (if going to use one), and then in the pre-moistened potting mix, about one-inch deep.

stem cutting of a weigela shrub

For small shrubs, use a small plastic container and cover the plant with a gallon size Ziploc plastic bag. Blow air into the bag to inflate it as much as possible and close it. Write the plant name on the bag and write down the plant name and date on the calendar or gardening journal.

For large shrubs, such as an oak leaf hydrangea, use an old glass fishbowl, covered, or the large plastic containers of Twizzlers.

Place cuttings in a cardboard box in the shade (the box prevents the bags from blowing over or away). Check the bags to make sure condensation developed inside. If there is condensation, it has enough moisture. If there is no condensation, open the bag, take the plastic container out, water, and put back in the bag.

It may take a few weeks to a few months for the stem cuttings to root. Check by opening a bag and gently pulling the cutting to see if there is resistance. If the cutting has rooted, start to open the bag a little bit, a few hours a day, still in the shade. If the plant wilts very quickly, it has not produced enough roots yet. Successful rooters will keep their color in their leaves; unsuccessful plants will fade or collapse.

weigela cutting in an inflated bag

Once the plant can survive outside the bag, move to a larger container. Gradually expose the plant to full sun. You may end up planting it in the garden bed in the fall because the larger the plant, the more the roots and the more likely it will survive. Plus, cool fall weather is better for transplanting than hot summer heat.

If the plant is a quick and easy rooter, you will not need a commercially prepared rooting hormone. Plants have hormones that aid in the formation of roots called auxins. The amount of auxins may vary in plants throughout the year and within the plant.  If you do not know if it will root easily or you want to increase your chances of a quick root, you can use a commercially prepared rooting hormone. In other words, it does not hurt to use a hormone. Commercially prepared rooting hormones are comprised of synthetic auxins called indolebutyric acid and/or naphthaleneacetic acid. Usually a lower percentage of the synthetic hormone is required for these softwood cuttings (1,000 ppm or .1 percent) and often comes in a white powder form. When you use the rooting hormone, put a small amount in a little container to prevent contamination that could occur if you dip the stem cutting into the original container.

Dipping stem into small amount of rooting hormone

When you are multiplying by stem cuttings you need to prevent fungal growth. Use clean plastic containers with drainage holes and bagged potting mix (not ground soil). Use tap water for watering the potting mix and for moistening the cut before dipping in the rooting hormone.  Bags, including the larger propagation chambers such as plastic shoe boxes, plastic storage containers, Twizzler containers, and glass terrarium/fish tanks, must be clean.

This month, try taking several cuttings from one shrub so if one does not root, you won’t get disappointed. Experiment, take notes, and discover the magic of plant propagation. Good luck!

Time to Prune Lavender

I have several Phenomenal® lavender shrubs from Peace Tree Farm, a wholesale nursery in Pennsylvania. They have been in the front of my house for 8 years. Each summer they bloom profusely, attracting many bees. There are many types of lavender, but this is Lavandula x intermedia which works well as a hardy garden plant. Because of their highly fragrant foliage, deer don’t bother them. I have never had pest/disease issues. Now in August, the blooms are past their prime and the bees have moved on to other flowers in the garden. This is the best time to remove the spent blooms and to prune the shrubs to maintain their shape.

Although we think of lavender as a perennial, it really is a woody shrub that must be pruned annually. As the shrub ages, the branches become thick and gnarled, and they tend to crack and split. Annual pruning is necessary to prevent this with the branches and to remove the spent flower stalks.

A close up shows how far down the flowering stalk you have to cut.

To prune, look at the flowering stalks and where new growth occurred this year. Look for where the woody base ends and the new foliage growth begins. Cut into the new leaf growth but not into the woody section. Usually, the new spring growth you want next year will not occur in the woody section. Make your cut about 2 to 3 inches above the woody part and into the “green” part. You can use pruning shears or hedge shears depending on how many you have. Sometimes it is easier to cut off the stems first and then go back and shape the bush to create a symmetrical, dome-shaped appearance. Remove dead or damaged branches. Everything can go in the compost pile or save the foliage for potpourri.

Shaping it like this prevents the shrub from becoming a woody gnarled unattractive shrub. If left unpruned the shrub’s woody base will only get bigger, making it harder to cut and shape. Also, if left unpruned, it will develop fewer flowers. It is best to prune after the shrub blooms but no later than late August. Pruning in the fall will encourage tender new growth which will be killed by the cold winter temperatures. If you don’t prune in the fall, prune in the spring when new foliage growth emerges but before the plant blooms. Because my bushes are in front of the house and in front of spring blooming bulbs, I prune in the fall. I think the dead flower spikes are unsightly in the winter, and they detract from my spring bulb display.

Since its 2013 introduction of Phenomenal®, Peace Tree Farm has introduced Exceptional™ which has white blooms, Sensational!® which has purple flowers, and Inspirational!™ which has white flowers. All of these are winter hardy and perform well for us in the DC metro area. You should be able to purchase these from local garden centers. Lavender plants need full sun, plenty of air circulation, and well-drained soil. Good drainage is key so think about amending the soil or placing in raised beds.

Bush Honeysuckle Colors the Summer Garden

Flower of Firefly Bush Honeysuckle

Recently I have discovered an outstanding shrub for the garden — I really don’t know why it is not commonly grown here in the DMV. Bush honeysuckle is a deciduous, small woody shrub that thrives in full sun. It is native, deer resistant, and drought resistant and so far I have not seen any pest/disease issues. I have four different ones that I planted 2 years ago. I will admit, it took that long for them to settle down and thrive but once they are established, they provide pretty summer color.

Although not grown for flowers, bush honeysuckle blooms small, yellow tubular flowers that open up to yellow or orange florets. These attract bees and hummingbirds. Sometimes the floral color contrasts with the foliage making them stand out but if you were to cut something and put it in a vase, it would be the foliage.

Firefly from Bloomin’ Easy

I have Firefly and Nightglow from Bloomin’ Easy. Firefly® (Diervilla sessilifolia) is about 3 feet tall and wide with green summer foliage. I say “summer” because foliage can change color with these cultivars depending on the season and maturity (new versus old leaves). The orange reddish new growth appears mid-summer and contrasts nicely with the green. It also blooms mid-summer with yellow and orange flowers at the end of the branches. Nightglow® (D. splendens) is smaller, about 2 feet tall and wide, with summer burgundy red foliage (so far, no blooms).

Kodiak Fresh from PW Color Choice

Proven Winners Color Choice sells the Kodiak® series in green, dark purple to black, and copper red foliage colors. These are D. x splendens, a cross between D. lonicera and D. sessilifolia. I have Kodiak® Red and Kodiak Fresh®. Red has green summer foliage, and the new growth is red. It bloomed earlier in the year leaving behind small upright seed heads. Fresh has light green summer foliage with copper-orange new growth. This year it has not bloomed yet.

If you search on the internet, you may find more color variations. There has been quite a lot of breeding to expand the foliage color in this outstanding shrub. They are all relatively small, no bigger than 4 feet, which makes them perfect for small homes. These should be available at the local garden centers but if not, you can order directly from Bloomin’ Easy or check out the Proven Winners Color Choice website for online sources and local retailers.

Nightglow from Bloomin’ Easy

Multiplying Shrubs with Stem Cuttings

Weigela shrub, ready for stem cuttings

Plant propagation is just a fancy word for making more plants from what you have. I love to propagate the plants in my garden. To me it is magical that an entire shrub can be created from cutting six inches off the stem. Taking stem cuttings is an easy way to make more shrubs to fill in gaps in the garden or to share plants with gardening friends. Continue reading

Taking Stem Cuttings From Your Garden

Weigela shrub, ready for stem cuttings

Plant propagation is just a fancy word for making more plants from what you have. To me it is magical that an entire shrub can be created from cutting six inches off the stem. Taking stem cuttings is an easy way to make more shrubs to fill in gaps in the garden or to share plants with gardening friends. Continue reading

Remove the Bagworms in Your Shrubs and Trees

Bagworms are common pests in the Washington DC metro area. Usually we do not see the actual worms (Thyridoptery x ephemeraeformis), we see their “homes,” which are 2-inch long “bags” they have spun from silk and plant debris. These bags are hung like small, brown ornaments on shrubs and trees. At this time of year, they are prominent and should be removed.

Continue reading

Fall is a Great Time for Planting!

 

chrysanthemumsFall is a great time to plant shrubs, trees, bulbs, and hardy perennials in the DC metro area. The cooler temperatures, increased moisture, and decreased sun/heat allow the plants to settle in the ground, send out roots, and get established before winter. Continue reading

Multiply Shrubs in Your Garden with Stem Cuttings

Weigela shrub, ready for stem cuttings

Plant propagation is just a fancy word for making more plants from what you have. I love to propagate the plants in my garden. To me it is magical that an entire shrub can be created from cutting six inches off the stem. Taking stem cuttings is an easy way to make more shrubs to fill in gaps in the garden or to share plants with gardening friends. Continue reading

Fall is a Great Time for Planting Shrubs, Trees, Bulbs, and Perennials!

Fall is Fantastic! from Prides Corner Farms

Fall is Fantastic!
from Prides Corner Farms

It’s October — time to plant shrubs, trees, bulbs, and hardy perennials. Fall is a great time to plant in our area. The cooler temperatures, increased moisture, and decreased sun/heat allow the plants to settle in the ground, send out roots, and get established. While the soil is still warm, roots continue to develop until the ground actually freezes so the plant’s energy goes into getting firmly settled in the soil, not on top growth. The plants you buy now can be planted with minimal stress to them as well as to your wallet. Many garden centers are concerned with moving their inventory, especially the container grown plants that are outside. As winter approaches, discounts increase thus increasing the possibility of finding bargains.

Visit your garden center this month to enhance your landscape, support a healthy environment, and boost your well-being! For a list of garden centers in the Northern Virginia, Maryland, and Washington DC area, view the “nurseries” tab at the top of my website, http://www.pegplant.com.