Mosquito-Repelling Plant Myths

Posted on May 16, 2025 | Leave a comment

There is a common myth that planting lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) in the garden will prevent mosquitoes. Lemongrass is a stunning specimen plant and a fantastic culinary herb, but it will not repel those nasty pests. Although it is true that the foliage contains an essential oil which mosquitoes do not like, a person would have to cut open or bruise the foliage to release the oil and apply the oil all over the skin. Lemongrass has very sharp foliage and applying an oil directly on the skin could cause a reaction. Plus, you would have to cover every exposed inch, including the face, as mosquitoes can find an unprotected spot the size of a dime.

So don’t be fooled into purchasing lemongrass in order to have a pleasant, insect-free party on the patio. Likewise, don’t think that “mosquito” plant, a type of scented geranium (Pelargonium graveolens citrosa), peppermint (Mentha x piperita), lavender (Lavandula spp.), catnip (Nepeta cataria), citronella lemon balm (Melissa officinalis citronella), and lemon eucalyptus (Corymbia citriodora) will do the trick. All of these may have an essential oil in the foliage that mosquitoes find repellant, but the leaves would have to be crushed, wiped all over the body, and potentially cause a skin reaction.

It is best to spray with DEET or other EPA-approved repellants that have been formulated for use on bare skin. Another alternative is to wear permethrin treated clothing (but even then you would still have to apply something on body parts not covered by clothing). Here are more tips to control mosquitoes on your property.

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Tips for Growing Peppers in the DC Metro Area

Posted on May 9, 2025 | 1 comment
peppers in container

peppers combined with flowers in a container

Peppers are easy to grow from seed, but you also can purchase small plants at the local garden center in the beginning of the growing season. If you grow peppers from seed, you can grow a wider variety than what is available at the garden centers. All peppers are grown the same way, they have the same cultural requirements. There are almost 30 species of Capsicum, but in the mid-Atlantic area, we tend to grow three: C. annuum, C. chinense, and C. frutescens.

Within C. annum, there are many varieties and hybrids. Bell peppers are large and sweet, maturing in a red, yellow, or green color. These do not have capsaicin, the compound responsible for heat, due to a recessive gene that eliminates the capsaicin. Other peppers without capsaicin are the Italian frying peppers, Jimmy Nardello, Giant Marconi or Marconi, and banana or yellow wax peppers. C. annuum also includes hot peppers, also called chili peppers, which have capsaicin.

Capsaicin is primarily concentrated in the veins, ribs, and seeds. Removing these is one way to reduce the heat. Capsaicin is an oil which is why drinking water when you have eaten a particularly hot pepper does not help get rid of the burn. Instead, drink milk or eat yogurt, a banana, bread, pasta, or potatoes.

The Scoville scale is a measurement of the heat of a chili pepper recorded in Scoville Heat Units. It is based on the concentration of capsaicinoids among which capsaicin is the predominant component. This range is 0 to as high as 2,693,000 (Pepper X according to the Guinness World Records in 2023 whereas previously the Carolina Reaper was the hottest). Sweet peppers are 500 or less and include the bell pepper and the pimiento.

The C. chinense species is the habanero type of pepper – a type of chili pepper Native to South and Central America that includes habanero, scotch bonnet, and ghost pepper.

The C. frutescens species is another chili pepper native to South and Central America that produces small fruit that tend to grow upright. C. frutescens includes the tabasco pepper and the colorful ornamental varieties.

If you are really diving deep into peppers, there are two other species you can try to grow but likely you will have to start from seed as the plants usually are not available in this area.

Mad Hatter, a baccatum type sweet pepper with a unique shape that will turn red at maturity

The C. baccatum species has a wide variety of peppers, from sweet to hot, from South and Central America. Many are beautiful with unique shapes. These include bishop’s crown, Brazilian starfish, lemon drop, and the “aji” peppers (have “aji” in their name although not all aji peppers are in this genus).

The C. pubescens species has apple-shaped fruit and hairy foliage. They can be mild or very hot. Native to Peru and Bolivia, popular varieties include rocoto, manzano, and locoto.

Starting Peppers from Seed

If growing from seed, start indoors under lights about 4 to 6 weeks before the average last spring frost. Sow seeds about ¼ inch deep. They like warm rooms to germinate so if you are doing this in your basement, you may need a heating mat. Peppers are slow to germinate, the hottest peppers are the slowest. It could take more than a week to see anything. Direct sowing seeds is not recommended because the soil in May will be too cold.

sweet peppers in a container

In May, after frost has past, night temperature are consistently above 50 degrees, and soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees, move the plants outside or plant the ones you purchased from the garden center.

If you are moving your seedlings outside, remember to harden them off by gradually exposing them to light and the winds. If there is an unforeseen cold night, cover with a cloche or a 2-liter plastic soda bottle with the end cut off.

Transplanting into the Garden

Don’t rush to plant your peppers. They need warm temperatures so this could be June (or if you live in Virginia, after the dogwood blossoms have fallen). Peppers do best in soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7. Make sure you amend the soil with compost; they do not want too much clay. They need good drainage. Peppers also can be grown in raised beds or in containers that are at least 5 gallons with drainage holes. Place in full sun, at least 8 hours of sun a day, spaced at least 18 inches apart (from central stem to stem). They do not like to be crowded. Make sure your hose reaches them.

Unlike tomatoes, you don’t plant them as deep as possible. Plant the transplant so that the shoots are at the soil line as they were before transplanting.

Peppers are susceptible to sunscald which occurs on the fruit that has been exposed to intense direct sunlight. This could happen when you first plant them but will not kill the plant.

Usually, peppers do not need to be staked, nor do they need to be pruned.

Growing Peppers in the Summer

Peppers optimal temperatures for setting fruit is 65 to 85 degrees. However, the flowers can drop (i.e., not produce fruit) if the temperatures are above 90 degrees during the day and 75 degrees at night.

Jimmy Nardello, a sweet frying pepper

Peppers need fertilizer but withhold it when the plant starts to flower. A slow-release organic fertilizer with more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen is best. You can use one especially formulated for tomatoes.

Like tomatoes, peppers can get blossom end rot. To prevent this, make sure the soil moisture is consistent, not varying widely between very wet and very dry.

The small fruit varieties do better in the mid Atlantic’s hot and humid summer than the large fruit varieties.

They fruit up until frost so if it is just one night of cold weather, you may be able to cover for the night to extend the harvest season. If you are expecting a freeze, harvest the mature ones.

Harvesting and Eating Peppers

You need to know your varieties’ mature stage fruit color. Although all peppers may be eaten in the green stage, there is more flavor and vitamins in a ripe, colored up pepper.

Temperature influences color on the pepper. Purple pigment develops under cool temperatures so if you see purple streaks on peppers, it is because the temperature is too cool (maybe in the fall). The purple color does not affect the flavor. However, that is why it is difficult for gardeners in the mid-Atlantic area to grow solid purple varieties – it is just too hot in the summer.

red and black ornamental peppers with dark foliage

When picking chili peppers, you may want to wear gloves as the capsaicin may irritate the skin. After cutting and preparing in the kitchen, wash your hands with soap afterwards and do not touch your face or eyes.  Remember that capsaicin is primarily concentrated in the veins, ribs, and seeds so you can reduce the heat in a chili pepper by removing these.

Peppers dry well and can be ground or crushed. Wash the pepper and either cut and leave open on paper plate inside the house or leave whole (but whole will take longer to dry). Often gardeners will string up the whole peppers to hang in the kitchen. Or dry the peppers in a dehydrator, the oven, or outside in the sun. Dried peppers have more flavor and heat.

Saving Pepper Seed

If you want to save pepper seeds, make sure the plant is an open-pollinated plant, not a hybrid. Peppers have perfect flowers (both male and female parts) therefore they can pollinate themselves and do not need bees. However, bees do visit peppers and can cross pollinate the peppers in your garden and with peppers in neighbors’ gardens. This cross pollination occurs within a species. If you grew more than one variety, such as a sweet and a hot in the same genus (C. annum), be aware that bees may have cross pollinated them. Therefore, if you saved sweet pepper seeds and grow the seeds the next year, the resulting fruit could be hot, not sweet. To prevent cross pollination, you would have to separate your varieties of one species by 300 to 1600 feet or grow different species.

To save seeds, simply slice open a very mature pepper and remove the seeds. Place the seeds on wax paper to dry inside the house. Seeds are dry if they snap when you bend them. When dried, put in a container, seal, and label. Store in a cool, dark, and dry place.

You will get good germination rates from saved seeds for about 3 years.

Final Note

The mid-Atlantic units of the Herb Society of America host a Chili Celebration every October at the U.S. National Arboretum in Washington DC. This is a free event on Saturday, October 11, 2025, in the afternoon. The Units come to the National Herb Garden and set up tables of peppers to taste as well as products made with chili peppers plus a lot of information on growing peppers. The National Herb Garden also has pepper plants that are fruiting at this time. Yes, some of these are hot so we also provide milk and bread. See you there!

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Yes, Virginia, Tarragon Can Grow Here

Posted on May 3, 2025 | Leave a comment

Tarragon re-emerging in April

Tarragon is one of my new culinary herbs in my Virginia garden. It took a couple of tries to figure out its happy place. I had grown a few plants before in different locations but they never reappeared in the spring. This time, the tarragon that was given to me last year is back! It must be happy with full sun exposure in a well-drained area.

A member of the Asteraceae (aster) or Compositae family, tarragon, Artemisia dracunculus, is cousin to the other artemisia plants: mugwort (A. vulgaris), wormwood (A. absinthium), and southernwood (A. abrotanum). The term “dracunculus” is considered a corruption of the French “estragon,” which means little dragon. This refers to the plant’s brown, coiled roots, similar to serpents.

Tarragon in the summer

I have French tarragon, Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa, the preferred culinary variety. French tarragon has anise-flavored leaves (like licorice). An herbaceous perennial, tarragon has green, narrow leaves and woody stems. It dies back in the fall but is one of the first to emerge in early spring, growing to about 2 feet high and wide in the summer. Hardy to zone 5 (although every reference book gives a different number), it is not a long-lived perennial and should be propagated every few years. The plant is sterile so it is propagated by division or stem cuttings. Don’t be fooled into buying tarragon seed packets. They can’t possibly be the flavorful variety, sativa. More likely they are Russian tarragon seeds, Artemisia dracunculus, which has inferior flavor but can still be grown as a plant in the garden.

Tarragon is an old culinary herb that has been used for several thousand years in the Middle East and Europe. It is one of the few culinary herbs that has no significant medicinal use. When Thomas Jefferson was in France, he enjoyed the extensive use of tarragon in French cuisine. Assuming it was propagated by seed, he searched for the seed in the colonies and was not able to find it. Eventually Bernard McMahon sent him a shipment of roots. The first time Jefferson planted tarragon at Monticello it failed but he tried again in different locations until he too found tarragon’s happy place. He then distributed the plant to colleagues. In 1809, General John Mason wrote to him and said “has flourished well in the open air and will in spring afford plenty of slips.” Mason no doubt discovered that tarragon likes plenty of air circulation.

Interestingly, the flavor of tarragon varies depending on how it is used in the kitchen which is why it is so versatile. If I pick a leaf off the plant and chew it, there is a zingy, refreshing flavor like a Peppermint Patty. It slightly numbs the tongue. If I cook with it, the flavor becomes a mellow zingy like black pepper.

Tarragon leaves are used in sauces, vinegars, fish, chicken, spring vegetables, eggs, salads, cheese, cold potato dishes, and fruit such as peaches, melon, apricots and cherries. It is the ingredient in fines herbes and béarnaise sauce. Because of its delicate flavor, it is best to use fresh leaves and to add towards the end of the cooking period so they do not become bitter and overcooked. Because the leaves do not retain their flavor when dry, many people preserve tarragon in vinegar, which also can be used as vinegar for salad dressings.

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Don’t Throw Out Your Easter Lily!

Posted on April 21, 2025 | 1 comment

Easter lilies (Lilium longiflorum) are bulbs that have been forced to bloom during Easter. If you are given one as a gift, keep it in the house in bright, indirect light. Place it in a room with cool temperatures, 60 to 65 degrees, away from drafts and heating vents. Make sure the container has drainage holes. If it came in a decorative foil, remove the foil to allow the water to drain or cut the bottom out of the foil. Keep the soil consistently moist.

Pinching off the yellow anthers prevents pollen stains and makes the blossoms last longer. Once the flowers are past their prime, remove them.

Easter lilies are true lilies, hardy to zone 4. Here in the DC metro area, you can put your plants in your garden in May after the last frost. Plant them in full sun, in well-drained soil. Plant them at the same depth as they were in the pot. Ideally 3 inches deep with 12 to 18 inches between plants. Treat them like perennials — leave the foliage on until eventually the plants become dormant for the winter. In the spring, fertilize with a slow-release balanced fertilizer or use an organic fish fertilizer.

It may take a year or two for the bulbs to bloom again. However, they will not bloom at Easter, they will bloom in the summer. In nature these are summer bloomers, like other garden lilies.

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Twenty-One Tips for Growing Tomatoes Successfully

Posted on April 12, 2025 | Leave a comment

By now you should have started your tomato seeds indoors under lights. This is just if you want a head start of course, it is not necessary. You can also purchase tomato plants but be aware that the night temperatures are still cold for them to be out in the garden now. They prefer warmer weather. Waiting to plant tomatoes until the beginning of May or Mother’s Day will give you the best results. For tomato success, read these twenty tips for growing tomatoes in the Washington DC metro area.

First, know what you grow. Tomatoes have determinate or indeterminate growth habit. Determinate types produce fruit at the end of the branches so most of the crop ripens at one time and you will have one or two harvests per growing season. This is advantageous for canning. The determinate types are more compact and are better for containers than the indeterminate tomato plants; however, you may still have to stake the vines or add a trellis. Indeterminate plants produce fruit along the branches so you can pick tomatoes all season long. They can be large, vining plants; a support system such as hoops or stakes should be used.

Sun Dipper, from PanAmerican Seed Handpicked Vegetables.

2. Tomatoes come in many sizes, shapes, colors, and flavors. Grow what you like to eat or use in the kitchen. For example, determine if you prefer to use tomatoes for salad, snacking, pasta sauce, sandwiches, etc. There are more specialized varieties for specific uses such as the Sun Dipper pictured to the right which is elongated to make it easier to hold while dipping into a dip.

3. If you are limited to containers, grow the determinate type and use a container at least 5 gallons large with drainage holes or an Earthbox. Or look for varieties especially bred for containers such as window box types (usually these will be the small, cherry types).

4. Determine if growing an heirloom plant is particularly important to you. Heirlooms may be tastier, and seeds can be saved for next year, but these plants may be more susceptible to diseases. Hybrids are often bred to be disease resistant. However, if you save and sow the seed next year, the plants may not have the same traits as before. Seed catalogs and packages often have letters after the plant’s name to indicate disease resistance. For example, F is for fusarium, V for verticillium, LB for late blight, TMV for tobacco mosaic virus, and N for nematodes.

tomato

Early Girl gives you fruit earlier than most other tomato plants, photo courtesy of Ball Horticultural Company

5. Days to maturity is the number of days it will take on average for a transplant to produce a tomato (fruit) when planted in the beginning of the summer. It is not the number of days from seed. This varies quite a lot with tomatoes from plants with a lower number of days which will provide an early season harvest, to mid-season, to those with larger numbers, resulting in a late season harvest in late summer. If you have the space and want tomatoes throughout the growing season, you can plant early, mid, and late season plants.

6. If starting from seed, sow seeds about a month before average last frost date (Mother’s Day here). Start inside under lights. When the seedlings produce a set of true leaves, you can pot up the plant into a larger container and put outside for a few hours a day. Gradually introduce seedlings to more daylight and more time outside in order to harden off before putting in the ground. Hardening off is the process of acclimatizing seedlings to higher light levels, cooler (than your home) temperatures, and breezes so they can withstand being outside. Here is a link to tips for starting seeds indoors.

7. At first the nighttime temperatures may be too cold (forties and below) to leave these transplants outside so you may have to bring the pots inside for the night.

8. Seedlings and transplants in the spring may develop purple tinged leaves which means cool temperatures are preventing phosphorus absorption. In the summer, when it gets warmer, they will grow out of this so no need to do anything.

tomato

The purple coloring on Indigo sun tomato is intentional, it is a higher level of anthocyanins, which is healthy for you, photo courtesy of Ball Horticultural Company

9. Tomato plants need at least six hours of sun and like warm soil, which is why it is best to put the transplant in the ground after Mother’s Day. If you plant them in cold soil, they will sit, unhappy.

10. Tomatoes like fertile, well-composted soil, not clay. In this area, you may have to amend your garden bed with compost. In the spring, a raised bed and a container will have warmer soil than the ground.

11. When nighttime temperatures are in fifties and the transplant is hardened off, plant in ground. For the indeterminate types, insert staking or hoops immediately after planting. Make sure you have spaced your tomato plants so there is a minimum of 2 feet apart for air circulation (to decrease a pathogen’s ability to spread).

12. Tomato stems will develop roots if covered with soil. Some gardeners will bury as much stem as possible to encourage root production. The theory is that if there are more roots, the plant will be able to take up more water and nutrients. Some people lay the transplant down on the ground, horizontally, burying the stem, but leaving 1 to 2 set of leaves above ground. Some people plant vertically, but very deep, leaving 1 to 2 sets of leaves above ground. Before you submerge the stem, strip off the leaves and little branches that would be underground.

13. A lot of gardeners add calcium in the form of crushed eggshells to the soil or 1/4 cup of lime before planting to prevent blossom end rot. If you do not do this, then pick a fertilizer especially formulated for tomatoes because it should have the added calcium.

14. In the beginning of the summer, mulch with straw, leaves, or compost to prevent weeds and to keep a constant level of soil temperature and moisture. Try Maryland’s Leaf-Gro; do not use composted manure.

15. Tomatoes will need to be watered so make sure a hose or watering can is available. Water the soil, not the plant, and water in the morning to decrease possibility of fungal disease. It isn’t that tomato plants need a lot of water, it is that the soil moisture must be consistent, and not fluctuate often. Mulching helps with this.

tomato

Think of how much water, sun and fertilizer it will take to produce this large slicer, Beefmaster. Photo courtesy of Ball Horticultural Company.

16. In mid-summer, tomatoes will need to be fertilized, especially if grown in containers. Espoma has organic Tomato-Tone and Neptune’s Harvest has a Tomato and Vegetable Formula.

17. To obtain fruit, temperatures must be above 55 degrees at night but temperatures of 75 or higher will inhibit fruit set and may cause blossoms to drop. However, there are heat-tolerant varieties.

18. Tomatoes are wind pollinated. Some gardeners hand-pollinate with a paintbrush if they feel the plant is not setting fruit. All the more reason why there should be good air circulation. Harvest frequently to encourage plants to produce fruit.

19. Pruning is optional, but only indeterminate plants should be pruned. Pruning here refers to removing the side shoots or suckers. Some gardeners do this to increase or to have more uniform fruit size and to help tomatoes ripen faster. It will not increase the number of tomatoes. If prune, start when plants are about 2 feet tall and suckers are small. Do this when the plant is dry, not wet from rain.

20. If possible rotate crops to prevent soil-borne diseases. If your tomato plants are having problems, check out the Virginia Tech Extension site on growing tomatoes, tomato diseases, and tomato pests; and the University of Maryland Extension site on tomato diseases, pests, and nutritional issues, growing tomatoes, and tomato topics; or contact your local extension agent.

21. Pick the fruit when it begins to color and bring inside. Ripen at room temperature and do not put in the refrigerator. This also prevents animals from eating the fruit before you do.

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Mukgenia: A Crimson Pig Plant for the Garden

Posted on April 6, 2025 | Leave a comment

Last year, when I attended the Fling at Puget Sound, I received a plant that was new to me from Little Prince Plants (thank you Little Prince for donating many plants to the Fling attendees). I dutifully packed it in my suitcase and planted it in my Virginia garden as soon as I got home. I am happy to announce it survived both the trip and this past winter. Although it is hardy to Zone 5, you just never know. Now in April the foliage is emerging, promising great things to come.

Developed by Terra Nova Nurseries, Mukgenia NOVA® ‘Flame’ is an intergeneric cross between two genera in the Saxifrage family: Mukdenia and Bergenia. The name “mukgenia” comes from “muk” from Mukdenia and “genia” from Bergenia.

Bergenia is an herbaceous perennial that you may know as pigsqueak. It thrives in shady conditions, in moist soil high organic matter. These plants are known for their large glossy leaves; spring-blooming, pink flowers; and dramatic red/bronze fall color. Rubbing the leaves together produces the sound of a pig squealing.

Mukdenia ‘Crimson Fans’ also is an herbaceous perennial known for large, ragged leaves that look like half the leaves were dipped in red paint. It too blooms white flowers in the spring but not as pretty as Bergenia. However, its fall color is gorgeous – a solid mahogany red plant.

Mukgenia NOVA ‘Flame’ combines the pink flowers of Bergenia with the interesting foliage of Mukdenia ‘Crimson Fans.’ The foliage is ragged, as if the edges were torn by hand. Many leaves have dark red edges. Hardy to zone 4, this clumping plant grows to about 8 inches tall, blooms in the spring and then exhibits great red fall color. Although the foliage is thicker than Mukdenia, this is not a drought resistant plant. It likes shade, and moist but well drained soil high in organic matter.

I am looking forward to this new addition to the garden but does anyone know if it still squeals like a pig?

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Happy St. Patrick’s Day! Enjoy Your Shamrock Plants

Posted on March 17, 2025 | 1 comment

Happy St. Patrick’s Day! Although the shamrock plant looks like a three-leaf clover it is actually a species of Oxalis. These are commonly sold as St. Patrick’s Day gift plants but they make great houseplants and garden plants.

The plants can have either green or burgundy foliage. The small flowers rise high above the leaves with five white or pink to white petals. Most people grow them as houseplants but they can be grown outdoors in the summer here in Virginia. Because they are small, it is best to grow them in containers (off the ground level) for better viewing. These are great to plant at the base of a large container that has other flowers to hide bare stalks. Or combine a burgundy foliage shamrock with a green plant like lemon verbena in a container for contrast (just eat the lemon verbena, not the shamrock).

Shamrock plants grow from rhizomes called pips which can rot if overwatered so it is best to let the soil dry out a little between watering. Eventually the plant will go through a dormant period and produce more pips that can be dug up for more plants in the fall.

In the house, the plant is best grown in indirect light with cool temperatures. Usually it is only after you purchase the plant that you learn of its charm. The leaves move up and down every day. In the daytime, at maximum light, the leaves are horizontal or open. By nightfall, when light levels are reduced, the leaves bend down almost as if the plant is wilting. Don’t worry, this is normal and does not mean that you have to water.

Shamrocks are beautiful houseplants but there is one caveat: they do not combine well with pets. Oxalis contains a high level of oxalic acid, which can be poisonous.

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Growing Ginger, Turmeric, and Lemongrass

Posted on March 13, 2025 | 1 comment
lemongrass

Bunch of lemongrass culms wrapped in plastic

Every year at this time, I visit a local Asian supermarket and pick up a few turmeric and ginger rhizomes and a couple of lemongrass stalks. For a few dollars, you can grow these tropical herbs for the summer. It is important to start early inside as ginger and turmeric have long growing seasons. It can take 8 to 10 months for the plants to fully develop in order to be able to harvest the rhizomes. Fortunately, they do not need the type of light structures you use to start seeds indoors.

Visit your local Asian supermarket and you will see bins of turmeric, ginger, and lemongrass. If possible, purchase organic ones but of these, I only see organic ginger in my stores.

ginger

Organic ginger rhizomes in bins

For the ginger (Zingiber officinale), pick rhizomes that are as healthy, disease free, and as plump as possible. Ginger is a rhizome, an underground swollen stem. It has eyes, like a potato, so make sure you purchase a piece with several eyes. It is best to purchase organic ginger as regular ginger may have been sprayed with a growth inhibitor. Regardless, soak the rhizomes in water for 24 hours before you plant to remove any chemicals.  Use a plastic container with drainage holes. It is best to start with a small container, just large enough for the rhizome to fit. Think of these as starter containers. Fill with potting mix (I use commercially prepared potting mix). Plant only 2 inches deep, and plant flat or horizontally.  Keep soil moist but not water-logged until you see the foliage emerge. It can take a long time, even a month, so don’t give up hope. Because the watering is a little tricky — too much and they rot, too little and they dry out, you may want to pot up one rhizome per container. That way, if one does not make it, you still have the others. These will not need light until the foliage emerges. But they will need warmth so don’t place the containers in your basement or garage.

turmeric

Turmeric rhizomes in bins

For the turmeric (Curcuma longa), plant the same way as above. I never see organic turmeric in the supermarket so I buy what there is in the bin. I also soak them in case they were sprayed with a growth retardant (it certainly cannot hurt).  Again, best to not put all your eggs in one basket, plant one per container so if one rots, you will have the others.

Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is a little different in that it does not take that long to grow in order to be able to cut the stalks to use in the kitchen. I start them in March because I am buying all of my tropical herbs at the same time but you can start them later. Lemongrass is a true grass.  The foot-long stalk you purchase from the grocery store is called a culm. The entire stalk was cut to make it easier to handle so you are buying the bottom foot of the stalk with the base and maybe a rootlet at the base.  Look for culms that are as plump as possible and not dried out. No need to soak the night before, just plant in the container with drainage holes with potting mix. These also will root if they are in a container of water but make sure you change the water every few days.  One culm can grow to be a large 3- to 4-foot-tall plant so for my family of four I only need one but I buy several in case one does not root. If I start mine in March, I can probably start to cut and harvest in the summer, up until frost.

lemongrass

Lemongrass is relatively cheap

In May, when the evening temperatures are consistently warm, I transfer the plants outside. I put them on my deck in the shade first for them to adapt to the stronger sunlight (shade for them is stronger sunlight than what they received indoors). Then gradually I move them to larger containers and more sun. The lemongrass is moved to a full sun location. The turmeric and ginger can take part shade. I prefer to leave mine in containers because it is easier to harvest in the fall. They will not overwinter in the DC metro area. Fortunately, they are relatively easy to purchase every March and can make interesting gift plants as well. If you are really want to start a conversation, try growing the ginger and turmeric as houseplants!

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Tips for Starting Seeds Indoors

Posted on March 5, 2025 | Leave a comment

marigoldsIts time! The month of March is a good time to start many seeds indoors under lights. You can get a head start on warm season plants such as tomatoes and peppers. Before you begin to sow seeds indoors, check out these tips to ensure as much success as possible. If you haven’t ordered your seeds yet, here is a list of seed companies.

ONE: The sunlight through your windows will not provide enough light. Use fluorescent tubes from hardware stores or purchase special grow lights but make sure their height can be adjusted. Seedlings are grown an inch away from the light source but as they grow the light source must be able to be adjusted. Lights have to be on for 14 to 16 hours daily but you can use a timer.

TWO: Yes, you can make your own seed starting mix but why? It is easier to purchase a bagged mix made especially for starting seeds – this mix is sterile with enough porosity for seeds to germinate and push through.

THREE: Not every seed should be started indoors. Some should be sown outdoors such as cilantro, dill, carrots, spinach, radishes, beans, and peas. Look at the seed package for instructions.

FOUR: What you use as a container is partially determined by what you are sowing. For example, if you are starting a lot of tomatoes, you can use one large tray because the seeds are likely to germinate and grow at the same rate. If you are sowing a variety of plants, use many small containers because each plant will have a different rate of germination and growth. Use plastic containers with drainage holes, draining excess water into a watertight, plastic tray. These can be small plastic cups, fruit cups, or yogurt cups. Another option is soil blocking.

FIVE: Once you sow and water seeds, you need to keep the seed moist until germination because if they dry out, they are no longer viable. This is why many people use clear plastic domes but remember to remove these domes when you see the seed emerge.

SIX: Water the mix in the container so it is moist before planting the seed. It will likely be hard to get moist, it may take several waterings, letting the water drain through, and tamping down with your fingers until you can sow the seeds. Then water again to soak the seeds.

SEVEN: The most common problem is “damping-off” which is caused by a fungus that thrives in warm, moist environments that are poorly ventilated. You will see pinched stems and seedlings that fall over. There is no recovering from this so one must prevent damping off by using clean containers, fresh water, increased air circulation, and not overwater.

seed packetsEIGHT: Usually, fine seed need light to germinate while larger seeds should be buried; check the seed package.

NINE: Heat mats are only necessary if you are starting warm season seeds in a cold area. Not all plants need this and not all places in the home need extra warmth. If you are starting seeds in a very warm room in the house (maybe upstairs – heat rises) you should be fine. If you are using a cool basement, you may need a seed heating mat. However, once the seeds have emerged, they can tolerate cooler temperatures.

TEN: Always label and keep records–within weeks you won’t remember anything. Because the small containers will be close together and under the light, you may want to mark the containers with a black magic marker instead of using plant tags at first.

ELEVEN: What you will see first is not the true leaves but the cotyledons. These once were the halves of the seed. They will look like leaves but soon they will shrivel and die off. Then you should see the first set of true leaves that can begin the photosynthesis process (i.e., make its own food). Decrease watering as you see growth emerge because really the roots are now down deep in the container taking up water so the surface can look a little drier than when you first sowed.

TWELVE: If you planted too many in one container, you can transplant seedlings into other containers after you see this first set of true leaves. Alternatively, you can remove the weakest looking ones with small scissors, just cut across at the base of the soil, do not pull it out.

THIRTEEN: When to start the seed indoors under lights? First determine your average last frost date for your area. Then count backwards the number of weeks given on the seed package. For example, if I use Mother’s Day as my average last frost date then I would start Black Krim tomato seed 6 weeks prior so it would be the last week in March. In that six-week timeframe, I know that probably the last 2 weeks, end of April, beginning of May, I will have moved the seedling to a larger 4-inch pot and place outside on the deck. This period will allow it to harden off.

FOURTEEN: Some seeds have to go through a scarification process where the seed coat either has to be nicked with a file or the seeds have to soak in a container of water for 24 hours before they are sown. For example, soak morning glories in water overnight before you sow them to help the process of breaking down the seed coat and letting the water in. Other seeds need to go through a stratification process of moist, cool temperatures several months before they will germinate. These seeds can be stored in the fridge for a few months before you attempt to sow them. Seed packets should state these requirements.

FIFTEEN: The caveat to #14 is that the seed packet is small and can only offer so much information, so read more information on the company’s website or catalog, or search on the internet, or look in a gardening book in order to have as much knowledge and success as possible for that particular plant.

SIXTEEN: Often there is too much seed in a packet. Don’t think you have to sow all the seed in the packet. In fact, save some in case your initial planting does not work out, or share/swap with friends, or use next year. Most vegetable seed will be viable next year with the exception of onions and leeks.

Good luck!

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New Herbs to Grow in 2025

Posted on February 19, 2025 | Leave a comment

Thai Double Sky Blue butterfly pea, photo courtesy of Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co./rareseeds.com

As you are making your seed list and checking it twice, consider growing new herbs this year. Every year I scour more than 20 seed/plant catalogs/websites for new introductions–something new to try in my garden. In the past, I think I was constrained by a narrow definition of herbs but the more I learn, the more my definition has expanded. Many plants could be considered herbs, including greens. Herbs are plants that are of use to humans, either for culinary, medicinal, aromatherapy, cosmetic, and even coloring (dyes).

Also, “new” can be defined in different ways. The item may be new to the company’s inventory but that does not mean it would be a new plant for an experienced gardener. To me “new” is: “Wow! This herb is really different from all the other ones — I have not seen this before, and I think you might be interested.” Obviously, my list is not all new herbs on the market but a selection of “herbs of interest” – suggestions for you to try as you expand your herb gardening experience.

Finally, not all companies list new introductions. They may have them but they do not highlight or tag them, so it is difficult to ascertain. If you want to keep exploring new introductions, here is a link to more than 100 seed companies. Many will send you free catalogs!

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds always has tantalizing introductions — many of which are from other countries, so you always learn something new. Note that plants are listed in alphabetical order in the catalog — not categorized by flower, vegetable, or herb. I think they recognize the overlap or blurred distinctions between many ornamental and medicinal and/or culinary useful plants. For example, new this year is ‘Beetroot Amaranth’, an ornamental edible plant from India. The red foliage can add color to the ornamental garden and can be cooked as a green, like spinach. There also is a new white version called ‘White Beauty’ with ice white stems and green foliage.

Purple Perfume hot pepper, photo courtesy of Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co./rareseeds.com

Another example is butterfly pea (Clitoria ternatea) and this year Baker Creek is introducing ‘Thai Double Sky Blue’. This vine blooms stunning double-flowering pale blue flowers which can be used to color beverages, cocktails, and food such as rice.

Baker Creek has several new hot peppers which are too spicy for me, but I would grow ‘Purple Perfume’ (Cheiro Roxa) as an ornamental for its translucent purple fruit. A staple in Brazilian cooking, these plants produce many very small colorful peppers which Baker Creek says are “pretty enough for the flowerbed.”

And if you are strictly looking for herbs, try their new papalo seeds. They have two types: butterfly leaf and narrow leaf form. I have seen the broad leaf form in my area (Porophyllum ruderale var.  macrocephalum) so it is not really “new” but I have not seen the narrow leaf form. Papalo foliage commonly is used in Mexican cuisine. The flavor is supposed to be similar to cilantro but with a more pronounced flavor. However, papalo thrives in the summer while cilantro will flower and set seed when the summer begins. The narrow leaf form (Porophyllum ruderale) reminds me of willow leaves. It is a lesser-known variety of papalo, and again used like cilantro, but prefers warm weather. This plant also is known as quilquina.

If you have not heard of Experimental Farm Network, you need to check it out. EFN is the quiet studious bookworm to party girl Baker Creek, chock full of interesting plants from other countries as well as seed saving, plant breeding, and preserving genetic diversity efforts and collaborations. There are quite a lot of new items so I am going to bullet list them here because the EFN website provides chapters of descriptions for each:

  • ‘Big Hip Apple Rose’ (Rosa villosa): They are offering seed to grow this rose, which produces very large red hips (hips are the fruit used for culinary and medicinal purposes).
  • ‘Hun Ken’ (Allium ramosum): This is a fragrant flowering garlic from China, cold hardy to zone 5.
  • ‘Iraqi Rashad’ garden cress (Lepidium sativum): Cress is a hot and spicy green, which can use as a microgreen, garnish, salad green or on soups and sandwiches. It prefers cool weather, grow like cilantro.
  • ‘Kyrgyzstani Kalmyk’ dill (Anethum graveolens): This is a flavorful heirloom dill bred for its foliage from Kalmyk (Dzungar) in Bishkek, capitol of Kyrgyzstan.
  • ‘Monhegan Post Office’ sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata): Sweet cicely is a perennial in the carrot family known for edible leaves, seed, and roots. This one is named after an old post office on Monhegan Island, Maine (how cute is that?).
  • ‘Nga Khaw Buk’ sesame seeds (Sesamum indicum): Yes, Virginia, you too can grow sesame. This is an annual plant from Thailand.
  • ‘Togolese’ hoary basil (Ocimum americanum): Despite the botanical name this basil hails from west Africa and has a strong fruity fragrance. The word “hoary” means gray-white color but this plant has green, small, pointy leaves.
  • Clary sage, redwood strain (Salvia sclarea): This particular strain of seeds has large white lilac pink bracts surrounding light blue flowers. This is a biennial or short-lived perennial known for its medicinal properties and stunning flowers.
  • Sanshō Japanese peppercorn (Zanthoxylum piperitum): Native to Japan, this will grow to a small shrub and the leaves, flowers, and fruit are used for culinary and medicinal purposes. A primary ingredient in Chinese five spice powder, this peppercorn’s claim to fame is its ability to cause a spicy and numbing sensation when consumed.

Anil (indigo), photo courtesy of Owen Taylor, Truelove Seeds

If you are interested in herbs, you need to become familiar with True Love Seeds. In addition to their informative website, they have a podcast called Seeds and their People and they offer seeds/herbs/veggies from many countries. Check out their collections such as African diaspora, East Asian, Italian, Ark of Taste, and the Roughwood Seed Collection. They have a lot of new products, many of which would be hard to categorize as either herb or veggie so check out their website. Here are some of the new 2025 introductions:

  • Shambalileh Iranian Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum): Fenugreek is a medicinal and culinary herb, both foliage and seeds are used. This variety is from Iran.
  • Reyhan Sabz Basil (Ocimum basilicum): Also from Iran, this green basil is supposed to be milder than other basils.
  • Shevid (Persian dill) (Anethum graveolens): This Persian dill is known as Shevid in Iran.
  • Persian purple basil (Ocimum basilicum): Although not entirely purple, this basil makes a great ornamental plant. Can be used for cooking of course but think about using it for foliage color in a container.
  • Rashad Iraqi Cress (Lepidium sativum): A cress from Iraq, a spicy green.
  • Añil (Indigo) (Indigofera suffruticosa): Indigo is grown for its use as a plant dye.
  • Besobela (Ocimum): A type of holy basil from Ethiopia that is very floriferous so consider growing it for pollinators.
  • Scent leaf (Ocimum gratissimum): A type of basil from Nigeria and Ghana used for various dishes.

Johnny’s Selected Seeds and High Mowing Seeds are go to sources for downy mildew resistant basils.  Both are introducing ‘Thai Thai Prospera ® Active DMR’, an organic seed; while High Mowing Seeds also is introducing ‘Noga Prospera ® Active DMR’, organic pelleted seed. Johnny’s is introducing Everleaf lemon basil that is supposed to be slower to bolt. High Mowing Seeds is introducing two green basils: Large Leaf and Saporoso. High Mowing Seeds has expanded their herb offerings to include Thalia and Ceres Dill, Beefsteak Plant Bi-color Shiso, Rosemary, and Za’atar.

Rashad cress, photo courtesy of Owen Taylor, Truelove Seeds

Adaptive Seeds is offering organic caraway (Carum carvi) seeds called ‘Sprinter’. Caraway is an annual, about 2 feet tall, similar looking to fennel and dill. The foliage and seeds are consumed. Although caraway is a biennial herb, Sprinter has been selected for annual production.

Another edible ornamental is organic celosia, Sokoyokoto or Lagos Spinach (Celosia argentea var. spicata). This leafy green is from Africa, similar to callaloo greens. It is a warm season annual with green foliage splashed with red. The flowers are ruby pink spikes, perfect for arrangements.

Organic Forest Green Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is a curly parsley, but it does not have a tight curl. The flavor is less bold than flat leaf parsley and can be used to garnish or add flavor in cooking. Although people don’t associate parsley with an ornamental garden, it makes a lovely green accent.

Scent leaf, photo courtesy of Owen Taylor, Truelove Seeds

Known for their works of art seed packets, Hudson Valley Seeds is now offering organic Resina calendula (Calendula officinalis) which is the best strain for making herbal salves. Not really new but Hudson is making it available in one of their art packs, which makes it an elegant gift. They also are selling lemon mint bergamot, Monarda citriodora, for the first time in 2025 but this one is not available as an art pack. This annual is not “new” but nice to know that Hudson Valley Seed offers it so you can include it when you order their other seeds.

If you are interested in dying fabrics with natural dyes, try their 1-2-3 indigo dye kit using organic indigo. They provide indigo seeds; you supply the fabric of your choice. They sell the Japanese indigo seeds separately, which is one of the oldest plant textile dyes. This one is available as an art pack.

Park Seed has a Sow Effortless Seed Collection where you just sow, water, and grow plants from paper discs, mats, and tapes embedded with seeds. The theory is you just lay down the paper, water, and magic! The advantage is that the seeds are “pre-spaced” or spaced correctly but also if you have dexterity issues with small seeds, this could make life easier. They have these available in several herbs, flowers, and veggies.

Park is introducing the new Bonsai Basil from the Kitchen Minis ™ Collection. These are Greek basil seeds (Ocimum basilicum) which produce a fine leaved, compact plant about 6 to 12 inches tall — perfect for containers.

Another Park introduction is purple ball basil which has very dark red purple foliage. A great container plant, purple ball basil grows to be a 10-to-12-inch ball shape that can either be used as an ornamental or harvested for use in the kitchen.

Coarse besobela, photo courtesy of Owen Taylor, Truelove Seeds

Territorial Seed has a wide variety of herbs, flowers, veggies, berries, and fruits. The nice thing about this company is their extensive inventory, free catalog, and for many, they sell both plants and seed. If you cannot find a particular herb in your area or would rather have the plant than sow seed, they sell many herb plants. New to their inventory is the ashwagandha plant (Withania somnifera) which is a medicinal herb used to alleviate stress and anxiety. They also are offering yerba buena (Satureja douglasii), a plant harvested for tea. Like Park Seed, Territorial Seed is offering the new Bonsai Basil but their sizes include a smaller package of fewer seed, for those who do not need a large quantity.

These are just a few selections for you to increase your herbal gardening palette. Good luck and happy gardening!

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