Category Archives: plants

Growing Taro, aka Elephant Ears or Colocasia

taro plantsIn March 2024, I purchased a few taro corms in an Asian supermarket when I made my annual trek to purchase the lemongrass and ginger. I potted them up in small containers with drainage holes, watered and put them in the living room. The warmth of the home and the water encouraged them to sprout. In May, I planted them outside in the garden.

Taro, also known as elephant ears (Colocasia esculenta), produces large, 1 to 2 feet long leaves, similar to an elephant’s ear. The entire plant will reach about 2 to 3 feet tall. Mine had green foliage but there are Colocasia cultivars with beautifully colored foliage.

Colocasia plants are tender herbaceous perennials native to Asia. The “root” is called a corm and is used as a food source, much in the same way we use potatoes. The leaves and stems are edible too but nothing should be eaten raw. This plant must be cooked first. The taro was being sold at the Asian supermarket as food but for a few dollars I purchased them to use as ornamental foliage for my garden.taro corms

My plants grew well in 2024. Mine were in afternoon shade in moist but well-drained soil. Our hot and humid summer did not faze them. Because mine were green, they were relatively simple plants but if I were to do it again I would use them in large containers. Their size makes them more suitable as a thriller. Either that or plant many in one area for a more dramatic effect.

Taro is hardy to Zone 8 and although I am in Zone 7, my plants came back in the summer of 2025. I was pleasantly surprised!  I could have dug up the plants in the fall of 2024 to save the corms (like dahlias) but considering how cheap they were, I decided to leave them in the ground. If I had them in a container, I doubt they would have come back in 2025.

Try growing taro in your garden. For just a few dollars, you can grow taro as a thriller in a container or for a tropical vibe in the garden. And don’t forget to get the lemongrass and ginger.

A Holiday Houseplant: Lemon Cypress

lemon cypressAs Christmas approaches, lemon cypress plants emerge, draped in holiday costumes. You have seen these small, yellow evergreens at garden centers and food markets. Wegmans has them in red containers with a single one red ornament. Trader Joe’s has “Grump” trees inspired by Dr. Seuss’ How the Grinch Stole Christmas. The trees are wrapped to droop with a large ornament. Admittedly, these would make great gifts but then what? How do you take care of these live plants?

The lemon cypress is a yellow-colored form of the Monterey cypress (formerly named Cupressus macrocarpa, and now called Hesperocyparis macrocarpa). The ‘Goldcrest’ cultivar is commonly found during the holidays. The foliage will give off a citrus or lemony scent when brushed. In its real life, it is a narrow, columnar evergreen that can grow very large. Here, it can live a dual role of houseplant or outdoor plant in the summer.

As a houseplant, the lemon cypress prefers cool temperatures in the 60s, but as much light as possible. That is hard to do indoors. Also, the humidity indoors in the winter is low so you may have to increase it around the plant. Water when the soil is dry in the top inch.  Make sure the container has drainage holes. You may have to separate the plant from the holiday décor after Christmas and repot the plant in a container with drainage holes and better potting mix. Also, keep in mind that pests such as spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs flourish during the dry winter months.

Outdoors, a lemon cypress plant can eventually grow to 6-10 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide. It can be grown as a specimen, hedge, bonsai, or container plant. If you bought one for the holidays or received one as a gift, keep it indoors until the last spring frost, usually mid-May. Plant either in the ground or in a container.

Lemon cypress prefers cool, moist summers. It should be grown in full sun, but here in the DC area, it may need protection from the afternoon sun when temperatures get in the nineties. Plant in well-drained soil and water well after planting. Continue to water to make sure it has water until established. The lemon cypress is hardy to Zone 7. If you are lucky, you may be able to keep it alive and decorate it yourself for the next holiday season. Happy holidays!

A Gardener’s Holiday Wish List

I always thought it was easy for my family and friends to select gifts for me because I am a gardener. A gardener always “needs” a particular plant or seeds; the latest gardening book; supplies like pruners, snips, and gloves; and all the accoutrements that exist in the gardening world. I thought having the word “gardener’ branded on my forehead meant everyone knew to give me gardening items for the holidays. But recently I learned that non-gardeners may be in a conundrum. They may be mystified – after all what is a secateur? What plant would do well and how many seeds should be bought?

In an effort to help these lost souls, I asked fellow gardeners for gift suggestions for gardeners. I could create my own list, but it would just end up being my wish list for myself.

Here are ideas from fellow gardeners across the country. I especially like Amy Martin’s suggestion of the Clever Fox Gardener’s Journal. I have not heard of this brand before and I know Amy speaks from experience, as she is a local landscape designer with many years of experience.

An accomplished speaker, writer, and radio and podcast host in Massachusetts, C.L. Fornari has published many gardening books. She has several gift suggestions including book recommendations. I have both Carol Michel’s books and Ellen ZachosMythic Plants. Plus, I know Brent and Becky Heath and have ordered from their family-owned, Virginia-based bulb store. Speaking of Carol, earlier this year, she asked fellow garden writers what book impacted their lives, which I have linked here.

In her “Goddess Gardener’s Gift Guide for 2025,” California-based writer, author, speaker, and radio personality Cynthia Brian recommends both adult and children’s gardening books as well as tools. I also can endorse the CobraHead Weeder & Cultivator which I have. The sharp, pick-like end is very good at tearing up weeds.

Based in Colorado, Randy Schultz, well known gardener, writer, author, and founder of the Home, Garden, and Homestead website just published best gardening gifts for the holidays on the website.  I especially liked the Changshou kumquat tree from Logee’s Plants which I could probably grow here if I brought it indoors in the winter. Logee’s Plants sells indoor tropical plants, including edible and unusual plants. I highly recommend visiting their website.

All of these are good suggestions. I am going to make a cup of hot cocoa and modify my list before I mail it to the North Pole. Happy Holidays!

Mosquito-Repelling Plant Myths

There is a common myth that planting lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) in the garden will prevent mosquitoes. Lemongrass is a stunning specimen plant and a fantastic culinary herb, but it will not repel those nasty pests. Although it is true that the foliage contains an essential oil which mosquitoes do not like, a person would have to cut open or bruise the foliage to release the oil and apply the oil all over the skin. Lemongrass has very sharp foliage and applying an oil directly on the skin could cause a reaction. Plus, you would have to cover every exposed inch, including the face, as mosquitoes can find an unprotected spot the size of a dime.

So don’t be fooled into purchasing lemongrass in order to have a pleasant, insect-free party on the patio. Likewise, don’t think that “mosquito” plant, a type of scented geranium (Pelargonium graveolens citrosa), peppermint (Mentha x piperita), lavender (Lavandula spp.), catnip (Nepeta cataria), citronella lemon balm (Melissa officinalis citronella), and lemon eucalyptus (Corymbia citriodora) will do the trick. All of these may have an essential oil in the foliage that mosquitoes find repellant, but the leaves would have to be crushed, wiped all over the body, and potentially cause a skin reaction.

It is best to spray with DEET or other EPA-approved repellants that have been formulated for use on bare skin. Another alternative is to wear permethrin treated clothing (but even then you would still have to apply something on body parts not covered by clothing). Here are more tips to control mosquitoes on your property.

Mukgenia: A Crimson Pig Plant for the Garden

Last year, when I attended the Fling at Puget Sound, I received a plant that was new to me from Little Prince Plants (thank you Little Prince for donating many plants to the Fling attendees). I dutifully packed it in my suitcase and planted it in my Virginia garden as soon as I got home. I am happy to announce it survived both the trip and this past winter. Although it is hardy to Zone 5, you just never know. Now in April the foliage is emerging, promising great things to come.

Developed by Terra Nova Nurseries, Mukgenia NOVA® ‘Flame’ is an intergeneric cross between two genera in the Saxifrage family: Mukdenia and Bergenia. The name “mukgenia” comes from “muk” from Mukdenia and “genia” from Bergenia.

Bergenia is an herbaceous perennial that you may know as pigsqueak. It thrives in shady conditions, in moist soil high organic matter. These plants are known for their large glossy leaves; spring-blooming, pink flowers; and dramatic red/bronze fall color. Rubbing the leaves together produces the sound of a pig squealing.

Mukdenia ‘Crimson Fans’ also is an herbaceous perennial known for large, ragged leaves that look like half the leaves were dipped in red paint. It too blooms white flowers in the spring but not as pretty as Bergenia. However, its fall color is gorgeous – a solid mahogany red plant.

Mukgenia NOVA ‘Flame’ combines the pink flowers of Bergenia with the interesting foliage of Mukdenia ‘Crimson Fans.’ The foliage is ragged, as if the edges were torn by hand. Many leaves have dark red edges. Hardy to zone 4, this clumping plant grows to about 8 inches tall, blooms in the spring and then exhibits great red fall color. Although the foliage is thicker than Mukdenia, this is not a drought resistant plant. It likes shade, and moist but well drained soil high in organic matter.

I am looking forward to this new addition to the garden but does anyone know if it still squeals like a pig?

Happy St. Patrick’s Day! Enjoy Your Shamrock Plants

Happy St. Patrick’s Day! Although the shamrock plant looks like a three-leaf clover it is actually a species of Oxalis. These are commonly sold as St. Patrick’s Day gift plants but they make great houseplants and garden plants.

The plants can have either green or burgundy foliage. The small flowers rise high above the leaves with five white or pink to white petals. Most people grow them as houseplants but they can be grown outdoors in the summer here in Virginia. Because they are small, it is best to grow them in containers (off the ground level) for better viewing. These are great to plant at the base of a large container that has other flowers to hide bare stalks. Or combine a burgundy foliage shamrock with a green plant like lemon verbena in a container for contrast (just eat the lemon verbena, not the shamrock).

Shamrock plants grow from rhizomes called pips which can rot if overwatered so it is best to let the soil dry out a little between watering. Eventually the plant will go through a dormant period and produce more pips that can be dug up for more plants in the fall.

In the house, the plant is best grown in indirect light with cool temperatures. Usually it is only after you purchase the plant that you learn of its charm. The leaves move up and down every day. In the daytime, at maximum light, the leaves are horizontal or open. By nightfall, when light levels are reduced, the leaves bend down almost as if the plant is wilting. Don’t worry, this is normal and does not mean that you have to water.

Shamrocks are beautiful houseplants but there is one caveat: they do not combine well with pets. Oxalis contains a high level of oxalic acid, which can be poisonous.

When Can I Plant My Tomatoes? When Is the Last Spring Frost?

Basil plants for sale in March in Northern Virginia

A lot of us are just itching to start seeds, purchase plants, and start gardening as soon as possible. It is important to know that some plants need warm summer weather, while others thrive in cool spring temperatures. Also, just because it is for sale does not mean that you should sow the seed now or plant the plant in your garden.

First, learn which of your plants/seeds are cool season versus warm season plants. Second, identify your average last frost date so you can figure out your starting time.

Cool season plants thrive in March and April. They can tolerate a cold nip at night. By summer, they may have disappeared, gone to flower, or died back. In the DC metro area, March and April are cool season months and this is when we can plant/sow seeds of spinach, lettuce, cilantro, and kale outside. However, if we were to plant a warm season plant such as tomatoes and basil outside, they would not survive a frost. Warm season plants have to be planted after the danger of frost has passed and the night temperatures are constantly in the mid-fifties. Usually they will do well in the summer, from May until our first autumn frost. You can start the seeds of basil and tomatoes indoors in April under lights where they will stay warm and toasty until you bring them out when it is warmer.

From winter to spring, the chance of frost diminishes. Although some gardeners will plant their warm season plants in mid April, there is still a slight risk of a frost. There is no risk in May and some gardeners use Mother’s Day as a marker for when they can safely plant warm season plants in the garden.

Tomato plants for sale in March in Northern Virginia

Many hardware stores and garden centers will sell plants as early as March, including basil and tomatoes.  People assume that because the plant is there for sale it is okay to plant it in the ground.

Frost is predicted when air temperatures reach 32 degrees. It also may occur when air temperatures are just above freezing due to open exposure to the clear night sky. Frost can be a “light freeze” at 29 to 32 degrees, which usually kills tender plants. Using the 1991-2020 climate normals from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, the National Gardening Association provides a useful chart outlining probabilities of cold temperatures by dates.

By entering my Northern Virginia zip code, I can see that March 29 is the point where there is a fifty-fifty chance of frost occurring. Some gardeners look for this point to get a head start knowing they may have to cover their plants.  I am more interested in being safe than sorry  — I have no desire to rush out and cover my plants so I am looking for a number lower than 50. Also, the National Gardening Association recommends using 36 degrees as the marker because frost can form at 32 degrees and then fall down into your garden even though it is 36 degrees on the ground. Using this logic, the 50/50 mark is April 9.

On April 10, I have a 10 percent chance of 32 degree temperatures. Ten days later, I have a 10 percent chance of 36 degree temperatures. As time goes by it, the 10 percent chance of frost will diminish to zero (until autumn). Because I am a low risk taker (or possibly too lazy to go outside and cover my plants), I am shooting for less than 10 percent to near zero. Therefore, I can plant basil and tomatoes at the end of April with a slight risk of frost to Mother’s Day when there is no risk.

At this point, when to plant is a personal preference and it also depends on your schedule, your available time. But don’t sow your tomato seeds now and do not plant tomatoes in the garden in March!

Creating Terrariums with Tropical Plants

When I was in middle school and my family moved into a new home in Sugarland Run, in Virginia, the realtor gave my parents a housewarming gift of a large, foot high glass bottle of little plants. It was the first time I saw a terrarium, and I thought it was magical. A tiny, enclosed forest of tropical plants, where you can just imagine the trolls peeping through.

Now, with the advent of succulents, the word “terrarium” can mean sand-filled landscapes of succulents and bone-dry skulls. It also can be a singular tillandsia on white pebbles in a glass dome. There are many terrarium books on the market and if you flip through the glossy pages, you will see that anything is possible.

But to go back to the basics, to re-create that magical world, is actually very easy. It also is a great indoor project to do in the winter.

At the very least, you need the container, pebbles for drainage, potting mix, and the plants. You can use activated charcoal, moss, and decorations. A water mister with a stream option makes clean up easy and if the opening is wide enough for your hand to get through you should not need special tools.

Look around your house for a glass container. For beginners, it is easier to have one with a wide opening. It can be an open container or one with a lid; you can always add a lid. See if you have an old goldfish bowl, fish tank, or even a glass cookie jar. If you don’t have one, visit the local Salvation Army, Goodwill, flea market, or pet stores for cheap containers.

Purchase pea gravel and houseplant potting mix from the hardware store or nursery. You can get a large, heavy bag of pea gravel in the outdoors nursery section of Home Depot and Lowe’s or you can purchase a small bag where they sell houseplants. You can also purchase small bags of pea gravel at nurseries. The Fair Oaks location of Merrifield Garden Center has a bin where you can purchase pea gravel by the scoop.

Often the plants in the 2-inch containers are root bound so tease the roots apart.

Purchase a few small tropical plants, the type that are sold in plastic 2-inch containers. Make sure you look at the price of each one because when viewing from the top, they all look the same, but when looking at the price tag from the side, you may notice that some plants are three times more expensive than others. No need to purchase expensive ones.

Selecting plants for the terrarium is very similar to purchasing plants for containers in the garden. Think “thriller, spiller, filler.” Choose an upright plant, a mounding plant, and a trailing or creeping plant. Have an odd number of plants — 3 or 5. Create visual interest through different textures and colors. Also, think of how you can create more interest either with moss, decorative stones, or bark.

You can purchase bags of activated charcoal at the houseplant section of the hardware store or the nurseries. Activated charcoal has been treated at a very high temperature to be more porous and is used as a filtration system. It is supposed to remove impurities and prevent mold and mildew. The are just as many advocating the use of charcoal as those who say it is a waste of money. I use it when I am using a completely enclosed system.

Teasing apart one plant to get several.

You also can purchase sheets of dried moss. There are a few types available locally and more online, including live moss. Do not dig up moss from your garden. You could be bringing in insects, bacteria, and fungal organisms, which when placed in a terrarium, could “bloom” out of control.

When selecting the container and the plants, keep in mind the headroom – the space above the plants that is necessary for oxygen. Make the headroom about half the height of the container.

Step-by-Step Process:

  1. Remove the plants from the containers and examine the root structure to see if a) they are root bound and b) you can easily divide the plant. Like plants you purchase for the garden, these may be root bound and must be teased apart before planting. Likewise, if you look where the growth is coming from, you may see that you can loosen and separate to have more than one plant. If you can get more than one plant but you only need one, just pot up the extras for a future terrarium.
  2. For the plants you are going to put in the terrarium, moisten the root system by submerging in a mug of water.
  3. Add a layer of pea gravel for drainage to your container.
  4. Add a thin layer of charcoal, just to cover the pea gravel.
  5. Add a layer of the potting mix. The depth will depend on the container and plants. Add enough to cover your plants’ root systems.
  6. Insert plants with moist root systems.
  7. Add more potting mix around plants, tamp into place with your fingers.
  8. Add moisten moss if desired (moisten by spritzing with water). Tamp everything in place.
  9. When you are satisfied with the placement you can either clean up now and wait to add the decorative pieces later or add everything now and clean up. I like to clean up and then let my terrarium sit for a few days so I can ponder if it is truly done or not. A terrarium is a work of art. You need to feel comfortable that you have made it the best it can be.
  10. Clean by misting or squirting the foliage with water – just enough to get the soil off. Wipe the container’s sides with a paper towel. It is not necessary to water the plants, and you don’t want to inject too much water.
  11. If there is a lid, put the lid on. The next day, if there is condensation, take the lid off, wipe the sides, and let the moisture evaporate to “dry” out a bit. Condensation is a sign of too much moisture, which may lead to fungal issues.
  12. Place the terrarium in a warm area with bright light, not in direct light.

Terrariums are not watered often like houseplants. Theoretically the plants get enough water by being in an enclosed or partially enclosed environment and by being in proximity with each other. You should water when the soil looks dry, lighter in color, or the plants are wilting. Keep an eye on condensation and “critters.” If a piece of plant has died or is moldy, remove it.

Terrarium plants are not fertilized. You are not encouraging growth; you are encouraging a level of equilibrium, so the plant is able to obtain what it needs. In other words, you are creating a mini world of tropical plants.

Try making a terrarium this winter. This is a fun activity to do with your friends, garden club, or kids. They also make excellent gifts.

Mistletoe: Not Just for the Holidays

Mistletoe in the tree

In the beginning of November, I was walking in a nearby Fairfax County park and noticed a dense growth of “green” above in a tree. I knew it was too large to be a bird’s nest and too green to be a squirrel’s nest. The next day I drove back to the place with a ladder and took a few photos. A branch may have fallen because when I got home it was in the car. I could quickly see that it was mistletoe with its distinctive leaves.

Think mistletoe and you think Christmas but you may also think parasitic plant that damages trees. However, the mistletoe we associate with Christmas is not a true parasite, it is a hemiparasite, which has chlorophyll and can conduct some photosynthesis but still needs the tree for nutrients and water. Thus, they do not kill their host plant.

Close up of leaves and remains of small flowers, before berries are produced

Mistletoe plants live in the tree canopy – they never touch the ground, not even their seeds. They flower and fruit, producing a white, semi-translucent berry that has a single seed. The plant depends on birds to eat the fruit and then excrete the seeds on branches. The seeds are surrounded by a sticky substance called viscin, which allows the seeds to attach to the branch. The seeds produce a hypocotyl or stem, and then it forms a structure called a haustorium, which acts like a root and burrows into the branch to gain nutrients and water.

It takes years for a plant to mature so usually one cuts part of the growth for the holiday decorations, leaving the remaining to re-grow. Interestingly, harvesting mistletoe for holiday sales is a cottage industry in rural parts of Virginia.

There are many species of mistletoe but the North America native one commonly used for Christmas is Phoradendron leucarpum, which is not toxic to humans but may cause gastrointestinal illness if eaten. The European variety, Viscum album, is toxic and deaths have been reported in Europe. This variety was introduced to the western states by Luther Burbank (American botanist, horticulturist, and pioneer in plant breeding) in the 1900s. Viscum album is native to Europe and the British Isles but is important for Americans because this is the one that inspired the holiday traditions that were carried over to the colonies in North America.

For sale at Trader Joe’s

There actually is no concrete answer as to how the holiday tradition of kissing under the mistletoe started but there are plenty of stories and folklore.  It is known that by the 18th century it was a tradition in England which of course passed on to the colonies. Prior to Christmas trees, English homes hung up Kissing Boughs made up of greenery including mistletoe. It could be that a sprig of mistletoe is all that is left of those elaborate decorations that were made with a wire frame, greenery, and fruit. Because mistletoe is an evergreen plant that keeps it fruit in the winter and grows between two worlds (earth and sky), the druids believed it was magical, a symbol of fertility and vitality.

In mythology, Norse God Baldur, son of Odin, woke up one morning certain that every plant and animal on earth wanted to kill them. Frigg, his mother, and Nanna, his wife, consoled him but to no avail. Frigg asked every living plant and animal to leave Baldur in peace. They agreed. One day the gods were playing around and throwing objects at Baldur because they would bounce off him and not harm him. Jealous Loki tricked Baldur’s brother, a blind god, into shooting Baldur with a spear made of mistletoe wood. Mistletoe was the one species that Frigg failed to notice because it did not grow out of the ground but in the trees’ branches. Baldur died but Frigg learned to never forget the mistletoe. From then on, mistletoe hangs over doors as a reminder to never forget.

Regardless of the stories and myths, we now know more about the importance of mistletoe in the ecosystem. It is now considered to be a keystone species – a species on which other species in an ecosystem largely depend such that if it were removed, the ecosystem would change drastically. Mistletoe provides food: berries for birds, mammals, and fish and leaves for deer, porcupines, possums, and caterpillars of butterflies. Plus, birds and lizards feed on the insects that live in the leaves. The plant provides shelter – birds, squirrels, raptors such as hawks, and spotted owls use the mass for their nests. Fallen mistletoe leaves decay on the forest floor providing nutrients to plants, fungi, and insects. There are birds and butterflies that are entirely dependent on mistletoe for their survival. Plus, mistletoe provides early spring pollen for bees and there are some insects that feed solely on mistletoe.

So if you happen to see a green mass up in the trees, chances are it is just as important as the tree on which it lives.

Plastic mistletoe sold as a holiday decoration at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens

 

Don’t Throw Your Pumpkins Away!

Halloween is around the corner. By now you probably have decorated your front stoop with pumpkins or carved a few to light up the night.

After the witching hour, give your pumpkins a second life. Instead of throwing them in the trashcan, consider these other possibilities for two reasons: 1) pumpkins are still useful to us and wildlife; and 2) pumpkins in landfills are not good for the environment. In this country, more than two billion pounds of pumpkins rot in landfills, which produce methane, a “greenhouse” gas. Methane can trap heat contributing to climate change or global warming. In fact, methane is twenty times more detrimental to the environment than carbon dioxide.

Call your local farm or ask the vendors at farmers markets to see if they accept “used” pumpkins to feed their animals. Look up Pumpkins for Pigs, a Virginia-based non-profit organization, that helps funnel pumpkins to animals by maintaining a database of farms across the country.

See if there are pumpkin-related events such as a pumpkin smash. Sometimes large nurseries or farms will have family friendly events where you can catapult pumpkins or throw them down and smash them up. What a great stress reliever!

Compost your pumpkin after removing the candles and decorations. If you do not have a compost pile, contact local compost companies (often they have tables at farmers markets). Or break up the squash and leave pieces outside for local wildlife.

If your pumpkin is intact, eat it! Cut it up and make pumpkin soup, puree, or bread or roast the seeds. Or don’t cut it and make a centerpiece by gluing with a hot glue gun small succulents, moss, and dried flowers on the top.

If you can think of any more ideas, please put them in the comment section.