Category Archives: plants

Mistletoe: Not Just for the Holidays

Mistletoe in the tree

In the beginning of November, I was walking in a nearby Fairfax County park and noticed a dense growth of “green” above in a tree. I knew it was too large to be a bird’s nest and too green to be a squirrel’s nest. The next day I drove back to the place with a ladder and took a few photos. A branch may have fallen because when I got home it was in the car. I could quickly see that it was mistletoe with its distinctive leaves.

Think mistletoe and you think Christmas but you may also think parasitic plant that damages trees. However, the mistletoe we associate with Christmas is not a true parasite, it is a hemiparasite, which has chlorophyll and can conduct some photosynthesis but still needs the tree for nutrients and water. Thus, they do not kill their host plant.

Close up of leaves and remains of small flowers, before berries are produced

Mistletoe plants live in the tree canopy – they never touch the ground, not even their seeds. They flower and fruit, producing a white, semi-translucent berry that has a single seed. The plant depends on birds to eat the fruit and then excrete the seeds on branches. The seeds are surrounded by a sticky substance called viscin, which allows the seeds to attach to the branch. The seeds produce a hypocotyl or stem, and then it forms a structure called a haustorium, which acts like a root and burrows into the branch to gain nutrients and water.

It takes years for a plant to mature so usually one cuts part of the growth for the holiday decorations, leaving the remaining to re-grow. Interestingly, harvesting mistletoe for holiday sales is a cottage industry in rural parts of Virginia.

There are many species of mistletoe but the North America native one commonly used for Christmas is Phoradendron leucarpum, which is not toxic to humans but may cause gastrointestinal illness if eaten. The European variety, Viscum album, is toxic and deaths have been reported in Europe. This variety was introduced to the western states by Luther Burbank (American botanist, horticulturist, and pioneer in plant breeding) in the 1900s. Viscum album is native to Europe and the British Isles but is important for Americans because this is the one that inspired the holiday traditions that were carried over to the colonies in North America.

For sale at Trader Joe’s

There actually is no concrete answer as to how the holiday tradition of kissing under the mistletoe started but there are plenty of stories and folklore.  It is known that by the 18th century it was a tradition in England which of course passed on to the colonies. Prior to Christmas trees, English homes hung up Kissing Boughs made up of greenery including mistletoe. It could be that a sprig of mistletoe is all that is left of those elaborate decorations that were made with a wire frame, greenery, and fruit. Because mistletoe is an evergreen plant that keeps it fruit in the winter and grows between two worlds (earth and sky), the druids believed it was magical, a symbol of fertility and vitality.

In mythology, Norse God Baldur, son of Odin, woke up one morning certain that every plant and animal on earth wanted to kill them. Frigg, his mother, and Nanna, his wife, consoled him but to no avail. Frigg asked every living plant and animal to leave Baldur in peace. They agreed. One day the gods were playing around and throwing objects at Baldur because they would bounce off him and not harm him. Jealous Loki tricked Baldur’s brother, a blind god, into shooting Baldur with a spear made of mistletoe wood. Mistletoe was the one species that Frigg failed to notice because it did not grow out of the ground but in the trees’ branches. Baldur died but Frigg learned to never forget the mistletoe. From then on, mistletoe hangs over doors as a reminder to never forget.

Regardless of the stories and myths, we now know more about the importance of mistletoe in the ecosystem. It is now considered to be a keystone species – a species on which other species in an ecosystem largely depend such that if it were removed, the ecosystem would change drastically. Mistletoe provides food: berries for birds, mammals, and fish and leaves for deer, porcupines, possums, and caterpillars of butterflies. Plus, birds and lizards feed on the insects that live in the leaves. The plant provides shelter – birds, squirrels, raptors such as hawks, and spotted owls use the mass for their nests. Fallen mistletoe leaves decay on the forest floor providing nutrients to plants, fungi, and insects. There are birds and butterflies that are entirely dependent on mistletoe for their survival. Plus, mistletoe provides early spring pollen for bees and there are some insects that feed solely on mistletoe.

So if you happen to see a green mass up in the trees, chances are it is just as important as the tree on which it lives.

Plastic mistletoe sold as a holiday decoration at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens

 

Don’t Throw Your Pumpkins Away!

Halloween is around the corner. By now you probably have decorated your front stoop with pumpkins or carved a few to light up the night.

After the witching hour, give your pumpkins a second life. Instead of throwing them in the trashcan, consider these other possibilities for two reasons: 1) pumpkins are still useful to us and wildlife; and 2) pumpkins in landfills are not good for the environment. In this country, more than two billion pounds of pumpkins rot in landfills, which produce methane, a “greenhouse” gas. Methane can trap heat contributing to climate change or global warming. In fact, methane is twenty times more detrimental to the environment than carbon dioxide.

Call your local farm or ask the vendors at farmers markets to see if they accept “used” pumpkins to feed their animals. Look up Pumpkins for Pigs, a Virginia-based non-profit organization, that helps funnel pumpkins to animals by maintaining a database of farms across the country.

See if there are pumpkin-related events such as a pumpkin smash. Sometimes large nurseries or farms will have family friendly events where you can catapult pumpkins or throw them down and smash them up. What a great stress reliever!

Compost your pumpkin after removing the candles and decorations. If you do not have a compost pile, contact local compost companies (often they have tables at farmers markets). Or break up the squash and leave pieces outside for local wildlife.

If your pumpkin is intact, eat it! Cut it up and make pumpkin soup, puree, or bread or roast the seeds. Or don’t cut it and make a centerpiece by gluing with a hot glue gun small succulents, moss, and dried flowers on the top.

If you can think of any more ideas, please put them in the comment section.

Aloe Vera: Your First Aid Kit

Every May, I put my aloe plant (Aloe vera) outside on the deck to enjoy the summer sun and warmth. This succulent plant thrives and by autumn, she has produced many “pups.” The pups, small aloe vera offsets, crowd inside the small pot. When the nights cool down, I upturn the pot and gently pull apart each pup. I plant each one in its own small container of soil.  I then replant the mother and move her in to my house while I box up the pups to bring to the office. Within hours of placing the box in the office kitchen, colleagues have helped themselves to a new plant, armed with growing instructions that I have printed on strips of paper. My colleagues love free plants — it is like leaving cookies in the kitchen.

Aloe vera is a medicinal herb well known for healing burns. If you snap a leaf in two you will see a gel-like liquid. You can apply the gel to a burn on your skin, which will offer pain relief and a faster healing process. The leaves actually have three sections: a thick outer rind, a thin slimy layer of cells, and the inner gel. Just beneath the rind is a bitter yellow substance called aloin. This can cause intestinal irritation creating a laxative effect.  It is the inner gel that is used for burns, sunburns, or as a skin moisturizer. Diluted with water, this gel can be ingested to sooth intestinal irritation. Although aloe’s beneficial effects have been documented for thousands of years, it was not until U.S. researchers discovered that aloe gel could quickly heal burns caused by x-rays and ultraviolet rays in the mid-1930s that interest soared. Today, most people use aloe as an first aid kit for burns, disinfecting minor cuts, and insect stings. Researchers are still studying the plant. So far they have identified more than 75 nutrients and 200 compounds in the gel.

It is easy to grow an aloe vera plant. Give it warmth, sun, and good drainage. You can grow it indoors as a houseplant provided it gets enough light. Place it in a southern exposure window or a sun room. Or you can grow it outside in the summer. When I grow it outside, I just let the rain water it. Remember to bring it back inside before night time temperatures dip into the 40s.

This plant is easy to find at local garden centers. Or if you have a friend who has it, ask for a pup. Try growing aloe for your own personal first aid kit.

Lemon Eucalyptus: Like a Bowl of Fresh Lemons

A few years ago, I grew a lemon eucalyptus plant (Corymbia citriodora). I discovered it at a farmers market in Alexandria, VA, and the seller told me it was from Australia and was not hardy here in Zone 7 so it would have to be brought indoors in the fall. I had not seen one before so I was intrigued. This past weekend I saw them for sale at Greenstreet Gardens in Alexandria although the tag said “lemon bush” (photo to the left).

The lemon eucalyptus plant is great if you want a strong lemon scent for something like potpourri. It is also a medicinal herb; the leaves are used in traditional aboriginal medicine. The essential oil in the leaves is an antiseptic and is used in perfume. The plant is a rich source of citronella which is a mixture of many compounds including citronellol, citronellal and geraniol. The oil of eucalyptus is an effective mosquito deterrent. The plant itself cannot deter mosquitoes so don’t be fooled into thinking that a plant on the patio will keep you bug free.

There is a difference between the essential oil and the oil of eucalyptus. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has recognized oil of eucalyptus (OLE) as effective in deterring mosquitos. OLE contains p-Methane-3,8-diol (PMD), a naturally occurring compound obtained from the spent distillation of the leaves. PMD also can be synthesized in a laboratory. PMD is the only plant-based mosquito repellent that has been recognized by CDC to be effective in repelling mosquitoes while posing no risk to human health. However, children under the age of three should not use this because it can irritate the eyes. PMD has been registered by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as an effective plant-based mosquito repellent.

Lemon eucalyptus essential oil has a lower level of PMD and is not effective in repelling mosquitoes. The essential oil is made by steam distilling the leaves and twigs.

If you want a commercial, plant-based mosquito repellent, look for a product that lists “oil of lemon eucalyptus” as an active ingredient, which should provide up to six hours of protection.

My lemon eucalyptus plant thrived outside in the summer in a large container in full sun.  It grew several feet tall. The lemon scent was so strong, all you had to do was brush the leaves with your hand and you could visualize a bowl full of lemons.  Of all my lemon scented herbs — lemon balm, lemon grass, lemon verbena, lemon mint, lemon thyme, and lemon scented geranium – this was the most fragrant.

In its native habit, it would grow to be a tall evergreen tree and bloom tiny white flowers. Here in this area, you would have to bring the plant indoors in the fall to keep it alive. Or you can just purchase another one next year. I am glad to see it in nurseries now and I recommend growing this for its beautiful scent. The foliage should dry well (retain the scent) for potpourri or maybe even for wreaths.

Growing Taro, Also Known as Elephant Ears or Colocasia

taro plantsIn March I purchased a few taro corms in an Asian supermarket when I made my annual trek to purchase the lemongrass and ginger. I potted them up in small containers with drainage holes, watered and put them in the living room. The warmth of the home and the water encouraged them to sprout. Now that it is the end of May, it is time to plant them outside.

Also known as elephant ears (Colocasia esculenta), taro produces large, 1 to 2 feet long leaves, similar to an elephant’s ear. The entire plant will reach about 2 to 3 feet tall. This one will have green foliage but there are Colocasia cultivars with beautifully colored foliage.

Colocasia plants are tender herbaceous perennials native to Asia. The “root” is called a corm and is used as a food source, much in the same way we use potatoes. The leaves and stems are edible too but nothing should be eaten raw. This plant must be cooked first. The taro was being sold at the Asian supermarket as food but for a few dollars I purchased them to use as ornamental foliage for my garden.taro corms

These plants add a touch of the “tropics” and perform well in our hot and humid summers. They prefer part shade or filtered sun and rich, moist but well-drained soil. You can plant them in a large container, as a backdrop in an ornamental garden, or as a specimen plant. You can also “color” them up a bit by planting with other shade tolerant, colorful foliage plants such as caladiums.

Hardy to Zone 8, they may or may not survive in my Zone 7 Virginia garden. Lately we have had mild winters so there is a 50/50 chance. When the growing season ends, I can either dig up and save the corms to plant next year, or I can leave the plant as is and just wait to see if it comes back. If not, I can always purchase more corms.

Try growing taro in your garden. This is also a good kid project. For just a few dollars, they can plant the corm and learn about botany, gardening, and food staples from other countries.

Growing Luffas for Sponges

Luffa plants (Luffa aegyptiaca) are fun to grow and they make a great kid project in the garden. Although you can eat immature luffas as vegetables, most people grow them for sponges.  They are grown like cucumbers – they need to trail up a structure, they need full sun, and they prefer plenty of soil moisture. You can start them from seed easily, either indoors under lights in April or outdoors in May after our last frost.

In the summer, luffas bloom yellow flowers, about 3 inches wide. The bees love them, which is good because you need the bees to pollinate the flowers in order to get the fruit. Like summer squash, there are male and female flowers. After pollination occurs, you will see little green fruit behind female flowers.

Luffas take 90 to 120 days to mature. For sponges, pick them when the skin is yellow or brown, the fruit is lighter in weight, and the fruit “gives” if you lightly squeeze it. Cut it off the vine with about 2 inches of vine. Let it dry further (bring inside the home where it is dryer and warmer than outside). Remove the skin and remove the seeds. If it hard to remove the skin, soak in warm water for about 20 minutes. Save the seeds for next year.

The interior has a fibrous structure that is stiff when dry but softens and becomes flexible when wet. It makes an excellent scrubber for pots and barbeque grills, as well as for exfoliating the skin. You will find that your luffa is not white like store-bought luffas. The natural color is tan and may look “dirty.” Store-bought ones are bleached. You can bleach your luffas in 1 part bleach to 10 parts water for about 20 to 30 minutes.

When you start to use your luffa often in the shower, make sure it is allowed to dry between showers so it does not harbor bacteria or mold. Tie a string on one end and allow it to hang outside of the shower stall.

They can be put in the dishwasher or boiled in water to clean them. If you think they are no longer useable you can put them in the compost pile.

Luffa seeds are easy to purchase through seed companies. I rarely see luffa plants for sale at the local nurseries in this area. Try growing your own sponges this year, they are as easy as growing cucumbers!

When Can I Plant My Tomatoes? Calculating the Last Spring Frost

Basil plants for sale in March in Northern Virginia

A lot of us are just itching to start seeds, purchase plants, and start gardening as soon as possible. It is important to know that some plants need warm summer weather, while others thrive in cool spring temperatures. Also, just because it is for sale does not mean that you should sow the seed now or plant the plant in your garden.

First, learn which of your plants/seeds are cool season versus warm season plants. Second, identify your average last frost date so you can figure out your starting time.

Cool season plants thrive in March and April. They can tolerate a cold nip at night. By summer, they may have disappeared, gone to flower, or died back. In the DC metro area, March and April are cool season months and this is when we can plant/sow seeds of spinach, lettuce, cilantro, and kale outside. However, if we were to plant a warm season plant such as tomatoes and basil outside, they would not survive a frost. Warm season plants have to be planted after the danger of frost has passed and the night temperatures are constantly in the mid-fifties. Usually they will do well in the summer, from May until our first autumn frost. You can start the seeds of basil and tomatoes indoors in April under lights where they will stay warm and toasty until you bring them out when it is warmer.

From winter to spring, the chance of frost diminishes. Although some gardeners will plant their warm season plants in mid April, there is still a slight risk of a frost. There is no risk in May and some gardeners use Mother’s Day as a marker for when they can safely plant warm season plants in the garden.

Tomato plants for sale in March in Northern Virginia

Many hardware stores and garden centers will sell plants as early as March, including basil and tomatoes.  People assume that because the plant is there for sale it is okay to plant it in the ground.

Frost is predicted when air temperatures reach 32 degrees. It also may occur when air temperatures are just above freezing due to open exposure to the clear night sky. Frost can be a “light freeze” at 29 to 32 degrees, which usually kills tender plants. Using the 1991-2020 climate normals from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, the National Gardening Association provides a useful chart outlining probabilities of cold temperatures by dates.

By entering my Northern Virginia zip code, I can see that March 29 is the point where there is a fifty-fifty chance of frost occurring. Some gardeners look for this point to get a head start knowing they may have to cover their plants.  I am more interested in being safe than sorry  — I have no desire to rush out and cover my plants so I am looking for a number lower than 50. Also, the National Gardening Association recommends using 36 degrees as the marker because frost can form at 32 degrees and then fall down into your garden even though it is 36 degrees on the ground. Using this logic, the 50/50 mark is April 9.

On April 10, I have a 10 percent chance of 32 degree temperatures. Ten days later, I have a 10 percent chance of 36 degree temperatures. As time goes by it, the 10 percent chance of frost will diminish to zero (until autumn). Because I am a low risk taker (or possibly too lazy to go outside and cover my plants), I am shooting for less than 10 percent to near zero. Therefore, I can plant basil and tomatoes at the end of April with a slight risk of frost to Mother’s Day when there is no risk.

At this point, when to plant is a personal preference and it also depends on your schedule, your available time. But don’t sow your tomato seeds now and do not plant tomatoes in the garden in March!

Mt. Cuba Center Trial of Amsonia Plants

I have long admired Amsonia, especially when grown en masse. These perennial herbaceous plants bloom small blue “stars” in the spring, provide wispy green foliage in the summer, and turn a solid gold or orange color in the fall. Most are native and there are several cultivars and hybrids. Mt. Cuba Center in Delaware just published a report on their 10-year amsonia trial of 20 different types of plants, including one non-native for comparison. The 16-page report is available for download here.

Also known as “bluestars,” these perennials look like two to three-feet shrubs in the summer. They are native bee habitats, support early season pollinators, and  serve as host plants for several species of butterflies and moths. Like milkweeds, these plants produce a milky sap that deters deer.

Spring Sky, photo courtesy of Mt. Cuba Center

During the trial, the plants were virtually pest and disease free. They were grown in part to full sun on average soil and given minimal care. Supplemental water was only provided during the first year to encourage plant establishment.

The plants were rated on a scale of 1 to 5 with 1 being very poor and 5 being excellent for habit, vigor, and floral display. Not one rated a 5, but almost every plant in the evaluation was considered a top performer. The report provides a chart with the ratings, bloom time, floral display, size, foliage texture, and growth habit. The report also provides a 2023 bloom times chart as some plants bloom as early as mid-April and as late as June.

Short Stack, photo courtesy of Mt. Cuba Center

The two top performers are Amsonia ciliata ‘Spring Sky’ at 4.9 followed by A. tabernaemontana ‘Short Stack’ at 4.8. A. ciliata ‘Spring Sky’ or fringed bluestar reaches 2 feet high, blooms in mid-April to late May, and has finely textured foliage. ‘Short Stack’ is considered dwarf at 2 feet, blooms from mid-April to late May, and has more coarsely textured foliage.

The trial demonstrated that Amsonia are beautiful, easy to care for plants with three season interest. Like other perennials, they take time to get established.

This is the type of plant that attracts your attention in the fall with blazes of gold color and you think to yourself: Darn, I should have planted amsonia in the spring. So before the season starts this year, buy a few from your local garden center or check out the resources below. These companies were not in the report and do not imply a Mt. Cuba Center endorsement.
Plant Delights Nursery
Bluestone Perennials
American Meadows
Burpee
Izel Plants

A Winter Green: Arum italicum or Lords and Ladies

Yes, Virginia, there is life in the gardens during the cold winter months. Arum italicum, also known as Lords and Ladies or Orange Candleflower, emerges when most else has died down. Usually green marked with white, these arrow-shaped leaves begin to populate the ground before Christmas in my garden.  In the spring, demure, spathe-type flowers, similar to the flowers on the common, peace lily houseplant, appear. The flowers are not showy but they produce eye-popping fruit – thick sticks of bright orange berries in the early summer. By this time the leaves have receded, further emphasizing the orange berries.

Lords and Ladies is a perennial plant, preferring full sun to partial shade. It is hardy to USDA Hardiness Zone 5. All parts of the plants are toxic so wear gloves if handling and don’t eat the berries. Fortunately, deer and pests are not interested and I have yet to see any diseases.

When we moved to this house more than 20 years ago, the plants were under a beauty berry (Kolkwitzia amabelis), a large deciduous shrub about 6 feet tall. Winter sun filtered through the branches, encouraging good leaf production. However, the soil was poor, rocky, and dry – not at all the woodland conditions preferred by Lords and Ladies. This lack of moisture and nutrients must have kept them in line; they have survived every year but don’t spread. In the wild, where they may grow in moist, forest-like areas, they have been reported to be aggresive. The Lewis Ginter Botanical Gardens in Richmond categorizes Lords and Ladies as one of its “dirty dozen,” and warns gardeners not to plant them. The Maryland Invasive Species Council says it “misbehaves,” and the Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia labels it a noxious weed, further stating that it is invasive in Northern Virginia.

So while I inherited Lords and Ladies that have not moved in 20 years in my garden, I am not recommending you purchase this plant. It is still available in local nurseries and plant catalogs but just because it is offered for sale does not make it a good choice for your garden. Instead, check out Plant NOVA Natives’ list of native plant alternatives for moist shady areas.

Carex: The Wondercover

Carex woodii blooming

A few years ago, I had the opportunity to create a new garden bed toward the front of the property. It was a little too far away from the spigot so watering was going to be an issue and quite possibly deer. I wanted native shrubs but my saplings were going to take time to mature, thus leaving bare space for a few years. Having a new bed as a blank canvas is great but you have a lot of “blank” until the saplings mature.

I thought I would cover the soil with groundcovers and had heard great things about the genus Carex. I visited the local nursery and selected several Carex “Evergold” plants. In fact, this well-known local garden center only had the brightly variegated cultivars of Carex. But I liked the fact that its graceful arching leaves added color to the garden and stayed evergreen in the winter. True to form, the plants performed well despite the lack of watering. Deer have not bothered them (although they did enjoy the oakleaf hydrangea). In fact nothing has bothered the plants – they are work horses in my Virginia garden.

So when I saw the new Mt. Cuba Center Research Report on Carex for the mid-Atlantic region at a nursery trade show this past week, I picked up a copy. The 24-page publication is great. There are many detailed photos illustrating the botanical structure of the plant, photos of the top performers, and charts. The report can be downloaded from Mt. Cuba Center.

Top performer: Carex woodii

In 2017, Mt. Cuba Center’s Trial Garden staff planted 70 different types of Carex, 65 species and five cultivars (no, not my ‘Evergold’). Carex are grass-like perennials that are found in diverse habitats from wetlands to coastal sand dunes. A member of the Cyperaceae plant family, Carex is a sedge. Its stems are triangular with three edges and a solid interior. Usually their flowers are grass-like and insignificant but there are a few with larger, more pronounced flowers. The plants can be clumping or spreading. They are evergreen, semi evergreen, or deciduous in the winter. Most gardeners use them as groundcovers or as a “spiller” in a large container. They also can be used to stabilize soil, prevent erosion, and serve as a turf alternative.

Carex plants under shade at Trial Garden

For four years, the Trial Garden staff evaluated the plants for their horticultural qualities, vigor, and adaptability. They were planted in the fall of 2017 and given supplemental water for the first year to get established. From then on, they did not get supplemental water, they were not fertilized, and they only received a late winter cutback. Each plant was assessed in both full sun and shade and in average soil. The plants were rated on a scale of 1 to 5 with 1 being very poor and 5 being excellent. Top performers are in the 4.2 range or higher, but the report does caution that those plants with lower scores are not necessarily inferior. They may be useful or good performers in other conditions (more wet or more dry soils).

Top performers are listed below. The report provides a full paragraph and one to two photos for each.

  • C. woodii (Wood’s sedge): 4.7 shade rating, 4.4 sun rating
  • C. cherokeensis (Cherokee sedge): 4.7 shade rating, 4.3 sun rating
  • C. bromoides (common brome sedge): 4.6 shade rating, 4.3 sun rating
  • C. haydenii (Hayden’s sedge) 4.5 shade rating, 4.5 sun rating
  • C. stricta (upright sedge) 4.2 shade rating, 4.5 sun rating
  • C. emoryi (Emory’s sedge) 4.1 shade rating, 4.4 sun rating
  • C. sprengelii (long-beaked sedge) 4.4 shade rating, 4.0 sun rating
  • C. pensylvanica (Pennsylvania sedge) 4.3 shade rating, and 4.2 sun rating
  • C. pensylvanica ‘Straw Hat’ (Straw Hat Pennsylvania sedge) 4.4 shade rating, 4.1 sun rating
  • C. muskingumensis ‘Little Midge’ (Little Midge Muskingum sedge) 4.3 shade rating, 5.2 sun rating
  • C. albicans (white-tinge sedge) 4.3 shade rating, 4.1 sun rating
  • C. jamesii (James’s sedge) 4.3 shade rating, 3.9 sun rating
  • C. muskingumensis ‘Oehme’ (Oehme Muskingum sedge) 4.1 shade rating, 4.4 sun rating
  • C. crinita (fringed sedge) 4.0 shade rating, 4.2 sun rating
  • C. leavenworthii (Leavenworth’s sedge) 4.2 shade rating, 3.7 sun rating
  • C. plantaginea (plantain-leaf edge) 4.2 shade rating and failed to thrive in full sun and did not complete trial for sun rating

Because Carex plants are wind pollinated, there is no benefit to pollinators, but the plants are important as host plants and for habitat. Small mammals and birds eat the seeds and caterpillars of butterflies and moths consume the leaves. Toads, frogs, and turtles like to take up residence in the plants.

Looking down on Carex muskingumensis ‘Little Midge’ which has unusual foliage

The report also assessed Carex as a lawn alternative. In 2022, they did a year long mowing trial to identify which ones would be tolerant of regular mowing, grown both in sun and shade. Most were tolerant but those with medium to coarse textured foliage were not as aesthetically pleasing as mowed turf grass. Fine textured foliage looked better after mowing. The trial did not assess foot traffic which would occur in a home landscape. The top five top performers for this trial are:

  • C. woodii (Wood’s Sedge): 4.9 shade, and 4.9 sun
  • C. eburnea (bristle-leaf sedge) 4.6 shade, and 3.6 sun
  • C. socialis (low woodland sedge) 2.4 shade, and 4.6 sun
  • C. pensylvanica (Pennsylvania sedge) 4.3 shade, and 4.4 sun
  • C. jamesii (James’s sedge) 4.0 shade, and 4.4 sun

Carex crinita has pretty flowers

As I mentioned before, my ‘Evergold’ is a brightly colored cultivar that I found in a local garden center. None of these native species mentioned in the report were at the center, nor have I seen them at any other local garden center. In fact, there are many native species but you may not find them at your nursery. So if this report has you salivating for these plants, you may want to try these nurseries below. Full disclosure: these were not listed in the report and do not imply endorsement by Mt. Cuba Center.

Prairie Moon Nursery
Digging Dog Nursery
Izel Native Plants
Plant Delights Nursery

Also, if you are intrigued and want to learn more about carex plants, Sam Hoadley, who manages the Mt. Cuba Center’s Trial Garden and was responsible for this trial, will present Carex for Every Garden on February 1, 6 to 7:30 pm, virtually for a nominal fee. Register here.

Mt. Cuba Center is a destination garden, a public garden in Delaware that highlights the beauty and value of native plants to inspire conservation. I highly recommend visiting them and checking out their website for educational events and past reports on other plants.

All photos are courtesy of Mt. Cuba Center.