Winter Sowing 101

It is time for winter sowing! Winter sowing is a method of starting seeds outside in plastic containers in the winter so the seeds will have germinated by spring. In the spring, you transplant the seedlings to your garden bed. There are many advantages to winter sowing. It enables you to start seeds without indoor lights, get a jump on cool season plants, and provide the seeds’ requirements for stratification (a cold period) for those perennials that need it in order to break dormancy. Of course growing from seeds is more economical and provides a wider variety of plants from which to select.

Winter sowing is ideal for perennials, hardy annuals, semi or half-hardy annuals, and the cool season greens, veggies and herbs. Hardy annuals can tolerate cold soil and weather down to the 30’s, such as light frost and moderate freezing. Most hardy annuals expire in the beginning of the summer – they do not like the heat. Examples of hardy annuals are calendula, cornflower, annual larkspur, and pansies. Semi or half-hardy annuals can tolerate cool temperatures and cool soil down to the 40’s; they are damaged by frost. They too do not like the summer’s heat. Examples are baby’s breath, bells of Ireland, blue sage, forget-me-knots, and strawflower.

Cool season veggies, greens, and herbs include lettuce, peas, beets, radishes, broccoli, spinach, parsley, cilantro, and chervil. It is possible to winter sow the warm season veggies such as tomatoes and peppers but for these you would start later in the season.

Usually, seed packets and catalogs will not mention “winter sowing” but if you read the descriptions, you will see clues as to what plant would benefit from winter sowing. Look for words such as:

  • Hardy
  • Withstands frost
  • Self-sowing
  • Colonizing
  • Stratification required (cold period)
  • Scarification required (nicking or soaking in water)
  • Direct sow in early spring/late fall
  • Sow as early as the ground can be worked

In the DC metro area, we start winter sowing on or after the winter solstice which is December 21 and any time through January. It is January now and I have already started several milk jugs of seeds. There is no need to count days or weeks from average last frost date like you would if you were to start annuals under lights indoors.

To start winter sowing, look for plastic containers that can hold 3 to 4 inches of soil with about 2 to 3 inches headroom for the seedlings. You will often see gallon milk jugs but there are other options:

  • Clear, not opaque gallon milk, water, iced tea, juice, or apple cider jugs
  • Large plastic container of pretzels or Twizzlers that come in bulk size for the office
  • Coffee cans (cover with plastic)
  • Plastic container used to sell a roasted chicken (has a high dome)
  • 2-liter plastic soda bottles
  • Large plastic ice cream containers

Assuming you are using a gallon milk jug, make sure it is clean first and throw away the cap (do not need to cover the top).

Create several drainage holes in the bottom with a knife, exacto knife, box cutter, electric drill, or a hot glue gun without the glue.

Using a blade or scissors, cut around and below the handle or about 4 inches from bottom. Do not cut all the way across; leave a hinge on the handle side.

Fill the jug with 3-4 inches of potting mix. Do not use seed starting mix. Do not use soil from the ground or compost pile and do not use bagged soil with “moisture control” or water storing crystals. PRO-MIX works well.

Water the soil and sow seeds of one variety per container. If they are very fine seeds, press down so is in contact with moist soil. If very large, like coriander, press down, cover with a thin layer of soil. Water again and make sure seed is in contact with moist soil.

Close up the jug with duct tape and label or mark it some way so you remember what you sowed. Sharpies will fade so try grease pencils, colored nail polish/paint, or different colored ribbons. I used old lanyards and colored pipe cleaners from craft projects, tied around the handles.

Place the jugs outside in full sun where they can collect rain or snow. It is not necessary for it to snow in your area for this to work. Periodically check to make sure they are okay — dogs or foxes did not tip them over. You will have to make sure they have enough moisture. If it has not rained or snowed, you may have to add water through the opening. If you lift the jugs and they feel light, they will need water. If on a warm day you do not see any condensation in the jugs, you may want to add more water.

In the spring, you should see seedlings. When they are a few inches tall, or when they have two sets of real leaves, open up the containers and let the seedlings sit in full sun for a few days.

Depending on the plant’s preference for cool weather and the size, you may want to move the seedlings to a larger container to let them continue to grow or you may want to transfer to the garden bed. Also depending on the seedlings, you can either pick out individual seedings or take a hunk or chunk (like carving brownies). It really depends on the size/width of individual seedlings (i.e., if thin and fragile may want to take a chunk but if the stems are stout and strong, you can transfer each one). Needless to say, it also depends on your patience.

Try winter sowing this year, you still have plenty of time to get your containers, soil, and seeds.

Seed Swaps: Fun Way to Get New Seeds!

It is that time of year again — seed swaps! National Seed Swap Day is Saturday, January 31, 2026. This is celebrated annually on the last Saturday in January. Seed swaps are a great way to obtain new seeds, share your favorite seeds, and attend a fun event. A seed swap can be as simple as friends getting together to share seeds they saved from the previous gardening season to an all-day planned event with speakers, door prizes, and refreshments.

Seed swaps can be a vehicle to teach others how to save seed, the importance of seed diversity, heirloom seeds, and other aspects of gardening. Some events exchange more than seeds. Tables may be set up to collect used gardening books, magazines, tools, pots, and nursery catalogs. Some may expand their definition of seeds and allow bulbs, rhizomes, and cuttings. Others include related activities such as learning to make handmade seed envelopes.

Each seed swap is different but usually organizers have established guidelines for the seed such as the type of container to use, the number of seed in each bag, and the information required on the label. Organizers should clarify if commercial seed packages or hybrid seeds are accepted. Although swaps do not want seeds from invasive plants, the organizers should clarify the definition of an invasive plant in their area.

If you are interested in attending a seed swap, ask your local county extension agent or Master Gardeners if they know of seed swaps in your area. If you live in the DC metro area, Kathy Jentz, publisher of the Washington Gardener Magazine and founder of National Seed Swap Day, will host a seed swap at Green Spring Gardens in Virginia on February 7, 2026; and Brookside Gardens in Maryland on January 31, 2026. Tickets are available via Eventbrite. For Green Spring Gardens, register here and for Brookside Gardens register here.

If you are interested in starting a seed swap, visit a few first to see the range of activities that could take place and the number of volunteers required. Read Seedswap: The Gardener’s Guide to Saving and Swapping Seeds by Josie Jeffery and the Seed Savers Exchange’s article on How to Organize a Seed Swap. This online article also links to a presentation that Kathy provided at the 2024 Seed Savers Exchange’s conference entitled “Growing Together: Sharing Seeds, Skills, and Stories.” Seed swaps are fun and you come home with plenty of seeds to get you started for the 2026 gardening season.

Fantastic Fennel

fennel in the summer

I grow fennel, Foeniculum vulgare, in my Virginia garden for many reasons. Fennel is easy to grow from seed but you can purchase a small plant in the spring at local garden centers. Fennel can be a showstopper at five feet tall with many yellow blooms. Sometimes, the plant bends from the weight to weave among the perennials and shrubs. The foliage mingles with the pumpkin vines on the ground, rests on top of the chrysanthemums, and peaks through colorful zinnias.

Throughout the summer, I harvest the foliage for use in the kitchen. The anise flavored leaves add flavor to fish and chicken dishes and root vegetables. They are perfect for green salads, soups, eggs, and tuna fish sandwiches.

In the summer, the fennel blooms large, star-burst like structures, made up of many small yellow flowers which attract beneficial insects and pollinators. The flowers are edible so they make a great garnish on deviled eggs. Sometimes, I cut the flower heads for floral arrangements but I always leave some to go to seed.

In the fall, I clip the seed heads and put them in a paper bag. The seeds have medicinal qualities (the foliage does not) and are often served in restaurants to help with digestion and to freshen the breath. Eating the seeds or making a tea from the seeds can relieve flatulence, bloating, gas, indigestion, cramps, and muscle spasms. Fennel seeds are called “meeting seeds” because when the Puritans had long church sermons they chewed on the seeds to suppress hunger and fatigue.

fennel with zinnias

Seeds can be used for baking sweets, breads, and crackers, or in sausage, or herbal vinegars and pickling. The seeds have a much sweeter anise flavor as if they were sugar-coated. For me it is like eating small candies.

I also grow fennel for the caterpillar form of the black swallowtail butterflies. The caterpillars love to eat the foliage and it makes me happy to grow food for them and to support the butterfly population.

Sometimes the fennel comes back the next year, it really depends on the winter. I have heard that in warmer climates it gets out of control but in my zone 7 garden, it has not been an issue. After a hard freeze, I cut back the old fennel stalks revealing new foliage at the base. In December, the new foliage is just as lush and green, providing a nice garnish for holiday meals.

fennel seeds in the fall with the mums

Fennel prefers full sun but can tolerate some shade and need well-drained soil. Treat them like summer annuals and sow seeds every year.

fennel in December

I grow the “leafy” type, Foeniculum vulgare. I have grown the bulbing type, Foeniculum vulgare var. dulce, which is shorter with a bulbous base. It is harvested for the bulb before it flowers and sets seed. The bulb is sliced fresh for salads or cooked with fish and vegetables.

Bronze fennel is a popular ornamental type which grows like the leafy fennel but the foliage is dark bronze, not bright green. Bronze fennel is edible, it can be used in the kitchen but not as tasty. Think of it as a garnish.

Try growing fennel in your garden. You will be pleasantly surprised at its versatility.

Stunning Streptocarpus

flowerIf you are looking for the perfect houseplant, try a streptocarpus. This beautiful flowering plant is a cousin of the African violet but with more flair. These are easy to find now in the winter at local garden centers that sell houseplants.houseplant

Native to Africa, streptocarpus is commonly called a Cape primrose. There are more than 135 species, and the size varies. The plants you see in the garden centers will have long, strap-like leaves with tubular flowers high above the plant. There are some though with only a single leaf that can range from a few inches to a few feet in length.

Grow these plants like you would grow an African violet. They need strong indirect sunlight by the window or fluorescent tubes. They grow best with day temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees and night temperatures between 65 and 68 degrees. They do not like heat so if you put them outdoors in the summer with your other houseplants, they may perish.streptocarpus

The soil should be evenly moist, but not wet. Let the soil begin to dry out just a little bit between waterings. Do not let water get on the leaves. There is specially formulated African violet soil which works well for streptocarpus plants. They need to be fertilized with a diluted balanced fertilizer. A balanced fertilizer has the same proportion of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, the three numbers below the name of the fertilizer. To prevent a build up of fertilizer salts, periodically leach the plant by letting water run through the soil and out the drainage holes.

A streptocarpus is a type of a gesneriad, member of the Gesneriaceae family. These include the African violet, espiscia, columnea, sinningia, and aeschynanthus to name a few. If you really enjoy growing streptocarpus, try your hand at growing other gesneriads and consider joining the local National Capital Area Chapter of the Gesneriad Society. 

cape primrose

Parsley: Easy to Grow Culinary Herb

parsley

flat leaf parsley in January

Parsley is one of those easy to grow culinary herbs that adds beauty to your garden and flavor to your cooking. Here in Northern Virginia, parsley can stay green above ground in mild winters.

Parsley is a biennial, it produces foliage the first year and flowers the second year. I have set aside a small area in the ground I call the parsley patch. There are enough plants so that some are in the first year (when I want to harvest foliage for the kitchen) and some are in the second year (when I want them to flower and develop seed). For extra luck, I also scatter seeds every spring. This way I can harvest fresh parsley year round.

Recently I have discovered that I can winter sow parsley seeds and then transplant them to my patch. After Christmas, I sow seeds in a plastic milk jug and then just let the jug sit outside all winter long. In April, I open it up and transplant the tiny seedlings to the parsley patch. They do not mind the cool spring, in fact I think they prefer it to the hot summers.

Parsley likes organic matter, moisture, and morning sun or dappled sun. My plants are in the ground but parsley can be grown in containers and window boxes for the summer. I grow flat leaf or Italian parsley, which is best for culinary purposes. The curly leaf type is best used as a garnish.

curly parsley in the summer

To harvest parsley, cut outer, older leaves at the base, leaving the core or inner, younger leaves.  Cut with scissors (don’t pull) and put in a large bowl of cool water for about 20 minutes (to wash the foliage and drown any bugs). Pat dry and cut the leaves and stems into small pieces with scissors or a knife.

I use parsley for my bean stew, roasted vegetables, pasta, and salads. I also use the foliage for garnish for holiday dinners and plates of fruit. I have heard of folks using it in smoothies. In addition to its flavor, parsley has high levels of vitamins A, C, and K, plus a high level of chlorophyll that freshens your breath!

Try growing parsley from seed this year to create your own parsley patch. You can either direct sow or use the winter sowing method. Here is a list of more than 100 seed companies.  Or purchase small plants in the spring at local garden centers and either plant in the ground or in a container. Even if you don’t use it in the kitchen it makes a nice green filler.

A Holiday Houseplant: Lemon Cypress

lemon cypressAs Christmas approaches, lemon cypress plants emerge, draped in holiday costumes. You have seen these small, yellow evergreens at garden centers and food markets. Wegmans has them in red containers with a single one red ornament. Trader Joe’s has “Grump” trees inspired by Dr. Seuss’ How the Grinch Stole Christmas. The trees are wrapped to droop with a large ornament. Admittedly, these would make great gifts but then what? How do you take care of these live plants?

The lemon cypress is a yellow-colored form of the Monterey cypress (formerly named Cupressus macrocarpa, and now called Hesperocyparis macrocarpa). The ‘Goldcrest’ cultivar is commonly found during the holidays. The foliage will give off a citrus or lemony scent when brushed. In its real life, it is a narrow, columnar evergreen that can grow very large. Here, it can live a dual role of houseplant or outdoor plant in the summer.

As a houseplant, the lemon cypress prefers cool temperatures in the 60s, but as much light as possible. That is hard to do indoors. Also, the humidity indoors in the winter is low so you may have to increase it around the plant. Water when the soil is dry in the top inch.  Make sure the container has drainage holes. You may have to separate the plant from the holiday décor after Christmas and repot the plant in a container with drainage holes and better potting mix. Also, keep in mind that pests such as spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs flourish during the dry winter months.

Outdoors, a lemon cypress plant can eventually grow to 6-10 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide. It can be grown as a specimen, hedge, bonsai, or container plant. If you bought one for the holidays or received one as a gift, keep it indoors until the last spring frost, usually mid-May. Plant either in the ground or in a container.

Lemon cypress prefers cool, moist summers. It should be grown in full sun, but here in the DC area, it may need protection from the afternoon sun when temperatures get in the nineties. Plant in well-drained soil and water well after planting. Continue to water to make sure it has water until established. The lemon cypress is hardy to Zone 7. If you are lucky, you may be able to keep it alive and decorate it yourself for the next holiday season. Happy holidays!

A Gardener’s Holiday Wish List

I always thought it was easy for my family and friends to select gifts for me because I am a gardener. A gardener always “needs” a particular plant or seeds; the latest gardening book; supplies like pruners, snips, and gloves; and all the accoutrements that exist in the gardening world. I thought having the word “gardener’ branded on my forehead meant everyone knew to give me gardening items for the holidays. But recently I learned that non-gardeners may be in a conundrum. They may be mystified – after all what is a secateur? What plant would do well and how many seeds should be bought?

In an effort to help these lost souls, I asked fellow gardeners for gift suggestions for gardeners. I could create my own list, but it would just end up being my wish list for myself.

Here are ideas from fellow gardeners across the country. I especially like Amy Martin’s suggestion of the Clever Fox Gardener’s Journal. I have not heard of this brand before and I know Amy speaks from experience, as she is a local landscape designer with many years of experience.

An accomplished speaker, writer, and radio and podcast host in Massachusetts, C.L. Fornari has published many gardening books. She has several gift suggestions including book recommendations. I have both Carol Michel’s books and Ellen ZachosMythic Plants. Plus, I know Brent and Becky Heath and have ordered from their family-owned, Virginia-based bulb store. Speaking of Carol, earlier this year, she asked fellow garden writers what book impacted their lives, which I have linked here.

In her “Goddess Gardener’s Gift Guide for 2025,” California-based writer, author, speaker, and radio personality Cynthia Brian recommends both adult and children’s gardening books as well as tools. I also can endorse the CobraHead Weeder & Cultivator which I have. The sharp, pick-like end is very good at tearing up weeds.

Based in Colorado, Randy Schultz, well known gardener, writer, author, and founder of the Home, Garden, and Homestead website just published best gardening gifts for the holidays on the website.  I especially liked the Changshou kumquat tree from Logee’s Plants which I could probably grow here if I brought it indoors in the winter. Logee’s Plants sells indoor tropical plants, including edible and unusual plants. I highly recommend visiting their website.

All of these are good suggestions. I am going to make a cup of hot cocoa and modify my list before I mail it to the North Pole. Happy Holidays!

Versatile Kalanchoe Houseplants

Kalanchoe plants (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) or florist’s kalanchoe are popular holiday gift plants. These blooming succulents are relatively small, no bigger than a foot tall. You may see smaller versions, about 6 inches high, that are perfect for offices.

Kalanchoe plants have dark green, thick succulent leaves with scalloped edges. Plants can have orange, red, pink, or white blossoms. Because they are succulents, water them sparingly and provide as much light as possible.  Fortunately, they tolerate low humidity, which is common in homes in the winter. Make sure they have been planted in a porous, well-draining potting mix in containers with drainage holes.

The flowers last for a long time. When they are past their prime, simply snip off the flower stalks and grow the plant for its foliage. You can keep the plant as a foliage houseplant in the home. When summer comes, you can either leave the plant as is in the house or take it outside on the patio after the last frost date. If you move it outside, put it in the shade first so the foliage does not get sunscald. Later in the summer, give it a well-balanced fertilizer.

It is possible to make kalanchoe plants re-bloom. Like poinsettias and holiday cactus plants, kalanchoe plants need short days and long nights to trigger flower bud formation. In nature, this would occur naturally as the days get shorter and the nights get longer in the fall. However, since you must bring these back in the house before it gets too cold, you have to mimic the transition by putting the plant in a place that has an extended period of darkness every night.

In the fall, put the plant in a room where lights are not turned on (i.e. gets dark naturally) or in a dark closet in the late afternoon for 14 to 16 hours every day. Water less often and do not fertilize. After six weeks, put the plant in a place where it receives light, either natural sunlight through the window or lamps. The plant should start to flower.

If you visit garden centers and plant stores now, even grocery stores, you will see plenty of blooming kalanchoe plants. Purchase an orange flowered one as a Thanksgiving centerpiece and a red flowered one as a hostess gift when you attend a holiday party in December.

Should I Grow Catnip or Catmint?

Catmint blossoms up close

Recently I gave a lecture to a local garden club about herbs. A woman asked the difference between catnip and catmint. The names make them sound similar, they both are herbaceous plants that grow in the DC metro area, and they both are in the Nepeta genus, which is in the mint family.

Catnip blooming, photo courtesy of Mountain Valley Growers

Here are the differences. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is the plant we grow for our cats. These plants have nepetalactone, a chemical that is structurally like feline pheromones. You can purchase the catnip plant in containers at garden centers, or you can purchase a seed packet (easy to grow from seed). At garden centers, the plants are in the herb section, not the perennial section. However, catnip is a perennial, hardy to Zone 3, but it is considered weedy looking. The plant grows to 3 feet tall with spikes of small white flowers. The gray-green leaves look like lemon balm leaves. After the plant blooms, goldfinches will flock to eat the seeds, but the plant may also re-seed readily in the garden. People can make herbal teas with catnip for a soothing, calming effect.

Cats’ reactions to catnip vary – some roll around in it in a state of euphoria while others get very mellow and calm. The foliage dries well, and bags of dried foliage are sold commercially to be given to cats as treats.

Nepeta ‘Cat’s Meow’, photo courtesy of Proven Winners

Catmint is a desirable, ornamental plant for the garden. Catmint is edible but no one eats it or uses it as an herb. There are many Nepeta cultivars and species on the market. In the perennial section of the garden center, you will find containers of cultivars with names such as Walker’s Low, Cat’s Meow, and Cat’s Pajamas. Depending on the variety, catmint will grow to 1 to 3 feet tall and bloom spikes of purple, pink, or white flowers. The plants can be grown in full sun to light shade, in well-drained soil. Part of catmint’s charm is that the plants are summer bloomers, drought and heat tolerant, and deer and rabbit resistant. After they bloom, the flower spikes can be sheared to encourage a subsequent flush of color. Although catmint is commonly sold at local garden centers, one can also order plants from online sources such Digging Dog, Monrovia, and Proven Winners.

Cats may prefer both catnip and catmint or just catnip. If they do roll around in catmint in the garden, the plant will bounce back. Both can be grown in the garden but the one you select depends on if you have cats.

Nepeta ‘Cat’s Pajamas’, photo courtesy of Proven Winners

Hooked on Flowering Tobacco Plants

flowering tobacco white flowers

Nicotiana alata in summer

This year I grew a type of flowering tobacco called scented jasmine (Nicotiana alata). I purchased the seed from Renee’s Garden and sowed them indoors in the spring under lights. It is now November and the 3-foot-tall plants are still blooming, unfazed by cool nights and strong winds. The long, white trumpet-shaped flowers open when the sun goes down, facing me like beacons of light. They are known for their sweet scent which I am sure the night pollinators can pick up. Our winters are too cold for this variety to overwinter. The plants self-seeds but mine are hanging over the lawn’s edge so I doubt I will see more next year. However, I have been saving the seedheads since summer.

Nicotiana alata on left and Nicotiana sylvestris on right, in November

I grew another species called woodland tobacco or as Botanical Interests labeled it: Indian peace pipe (N. sylvestris). Again, easy to sow and grow. I transplanted several plants throughout the garden — some flowered this summer while others just produced a rosette of large leaves. Those that flowered were about a foot taller than N. alata and had similar white trumpets blooming at dusk. However, the blossoms faced downward so it was hard to see the face of the flower. Nice plants but I prefer N. alata smiling and saying hello to me every evening when I come home from work.

I am now hooked on flowering tobacco plants and want to try more next year. In the genus Nicotiana, there are about 60 species including the real (smoking) tobacco. Real tobacco grows up to 5 to 6 feet but most of what we call flowering tobacco plants are shorter, making them the perfect size for the home garden. The flowers have five petals that are fused to create the tubular shape. Many will open their flowers at dusk so you will be able to enjoy them in the evening and early morning. They attract moths, hummingbirds, and butterflies. The plants need well drained soil with more moisture than not (I had to water mine when we had dry spells here in Virginia). They are better in part sun/part shade, and don’t need to be pruned, deadheaded, or fertilized. I never had a pest/deer/rabbit issue. Usually, you must start the species from seed because garden centers do not sell them in containers. However, garden centers sell containers of compact hybrid plants that have been bred to open their flowers during the day.

Bronze Queen flowering tobacco

Bronze Queen, photo courtesy of Botanical Interests

For the 2026 gardening season, Renee’s Garden is introducing Lime Green, a form of N. alata with green flowers. There is another heirloom green flowering type called Langsdorf (Nicotiana langsdorffii) which grows higher at 3 to 4 feet with very long slender tubes. Botanical Interests has a variety of N. langsdorffii called Bronze Queen with chocolate-purple flowers. I prefer the chocolate (who doesn’t) to the yellow-green.

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds also sells Bronze Queen. They have other forms of N. alata: Purple Perfume with dark purple flowers, Crimson Bedder with cherry flowers, and Sensation Mix with a mix of pink, red, lavender, rose, and white flowers. They also carry Marshmallow (N. mutabilis) where the flowers are rose to cream with very dark throats or centers. This plant grows very tall, up to 5 feet.

Select Watercolors flowering tobacco

Select Watercolors, photo courtesy of Select Seeds

Select Seeds has the largest variety of heirloom flowering tobacco plants including some unusual species.  They sell Select Watercolors (N. x sanderae) which reminds me of when the Queeny series of zinnias came out – a complete game changer. Select Watercolors blooms flowers with muted, antique looking shades of green, pink, lavender, and blush white. Cranberry Isles (N. x sanderae) has pink and purple flowers. These plants are relatively short at 2 feet tall. They also have a N. mutabilis called Select Misty Dawn with white, rose, and pink flowers and Bella which is a cross between N. alata and N. mutabilis with white, pink, and rose flowers. Select Misty Dawn should be very tall while Bella should be shorter at 3 feet.

It is hard to pick which one I want to grow next year but one thing is for certain, these plants are winners in the garden. They perform well despite Virginia’s hot and humid summers, bloom from summer through fall, come in a variety of sizes and flower colors, and are relatively pest and disease free.  Try growing some from seed next year and you will be pleasantly surprised.