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Easiest Edibles: Herbs

variegated sage

variegated sage

Herbs are the easiest edible plants to grow. Many are well suited for containers while others thrive as perennial plants in the garden bed. I find that I have no problems with animals and insects, probably because of the pungent oils in the leaves. Most of my herbs are for cooking and teas, but I also buy plants that I read about so often I just have to see what they are like (rue, for example). In order to remember what I have (or to inspire me to use them in meals), I keep a list on the inside of a kitchen cabinet. The photo is last year’s list; it is a computer file that I still have to update for this year. The notches are the plants that were large enough for me to take cuttings in April this year to bring to my garden club at the office. I was showing my colleagues the variety of perennial herbs that they could grow in the garden but this list also illustrates how early in the season you can harvest most perennial herbs.

lemon balm

lemon balm

On this particular list, the chives (put in eggs and butter), fennel (add to fish), hyssop (admire), lavender (cut flowers), lemon balm (put in fruit salad or make tea), oregano (pasta sauce), rosemary (potatoes, biscuits, chicken), rue (admire from a far), sage (biscuits and tea), salad burnet (green salad), winter savory (great winter interest plant), sweet marjoram (pasta sauce), and thyme (biscuits, chicken) are perennials. The basil (pasta, tomatoes and French bread), borage (beautiful blue flowers), cilantro (fried rice), dill (egg salad), lemon basil (fish), lemon verbena (tea), mints (tea and fruit salad), parsley (potatoes ), pineapple sage (tea and fruit salad), and Thai basil (fish) are treated as annuals in Virginia. The fennel and tarragon are coming back this year but were too small to cut in April. I think the neighborhood cats stole the catmint; I can’t find it. But no loss, it only opens up space to add my new Korean mint (because I read about it), tansy (to repel pests), and zinger hibiscus (also because I read about it but I think I will use for tea). I may still buy artemisia as it is the herb of the year and I hear that savory is the herb of the year for 2015 so I definitely will have to add summer savory to the list.

oregano

oregano

If you are interested in herbs make sure you visit the National Herb Garden at the U.S. National Arboretum or join the Potomac Unit of the Herb Society of America. Although you can easily buy herb plants and seeds at the major nurseries in this area (see tab above), two that specialize in herbs are DeBaggio’s Herb Farm & Nursery in Chantilly, VA; and Willow Oak Flower and Herb Farm in Severn, MD. The Herb Society of America also is a great resource and our public library systems have more than enough herb books for you to enjoy.

herbs in 2013 garden

herbs in 2013 garden

 

 

 

Five Basic Plant Selection Criteria

When looking at plants at a nursery or plant sale, there are five basic questions to ask before you make a purchase. This is the very basic information you need in order to make a wise purchasing decision and in order to put the plants in the best location in the garden for optimal survival. Ask yourself these basic questions:

  • What are the plant’s requirements for light and water? This will tell you immediately if you have a place for it in your garden. Does it need full sun, or morning sun and afternoon shade, or shade all day? Does it need to be watered often, or can it take dry spells?
  • What will be its ultimate size? If it only gets a foot tall, you probably have the space. If it is a little bush that grows into a tree, ask yourself if you have space in a few years.
  • What color is it? This is a placement issue. Know the color of the flower, fruit, and leaves in all seasons so you can plant it in a place where it won’t clash with other plants or worse, be camouflaged by the wall of your house.
  • What is its function in the garden? Is it going to serve as a groundcover, will it provide spring flowers, or will it have lovely fall foliage? Will it be a strong vertical shape or will it have a wispy appearance?
  • What is its life cycle? Is it an annual, perennial, biennial, or tropical plant? In other words how much plant life will you get for your money? Many plant tags will phrase this in terms of the hardiness zone. A tag that says zone 4-9 means that it will survive our winters since we are in zone 6-7. A tag that says zone 10-11 probably means it is a tropical plant that will die with first frost.

Much of this information would be on a plant tag but if there is no tag, ask a staff person or look it up in a book. In addition to these questions, of course, you need to buy a healthy plant. Make sure there are no signs of disease or pests. Consider all of these factors in relation to the price. Only you can determine if it is worth buying and there are no guarantees that the plant will survive the summer. However, if it does well, you know that you have found a plant that does well for you. Remember that there is no right or wrong, this is a personal choice.

You can also add more questions that are relevant to your area and your needs. For example, if you live in a deer infested area, you would want deer resistant plants. Make that your sixth question. Or you have many small children who play outside in the garden so you want non-poisonous, child friendly plants. Make that your sixth question.

If possible, before you buy the plant, find out from the nursery staff or the plant label, the plant’s individual botanical or Latin name in order to truly understand the type of plant you have. A common name can be used for many different species, all with different requirements.

It is not necessary to know how to pronounce the botanical name, it is only necessary to know how to spell it. If you want to hear how the name is pronounced, there are several web sites that can pronounce the name via your computer speakers. The Fine Gardening website has created a list of botanical names that you can hear on the computer. Books that have pronunciation guides are the Dictionary of Plant Names by Allen Coombes, 1994, Timber Press; and Stearn’s Dictionary of Plant Names for Gardeners by William Stearn, 1996, Timber Press.

If you don’t know the name, you can:
call your extension agent;
look it up in a gardening book;
look it up on the internet;
take it to a public garden that has staff horticulturists;
take it to a nursery;
take it to a farmers market;
take it to a Master Gardener plant clinic booth, which can be at a farmers market or at a public library;
take it to a local gardening club; or if you know the type of plant (a dahlia) but want to know the particular name (the cultivar), take it to the local chapter of the specific plant association such as the National Capital Dahlia Society.

I strongly recommend that you write the name down and keep a journal. Record what you bought, the scientific name, where you put it in the garden, and how it performs throughout the season. That way, at the end of the year, you can evaluate how well it did for you and you can either buy more next year or plants of a similar genus.

Gaultheria procumbens teaberry or wintergreen

Gaultheria procumbens
teaberry or wintergreen

Garden Summer Battles: Imported Cabbageworm on Kale

cabbageworm butterfly on kale

cabbageworm butterfly on kale

cabbageworm butterfly near lettuce

cabbageworm butterfly on lettuce

I was harvesting my lettuce this morning when a flash of white flitted by the kale. My heart stopped: spring was over; the summer battles have begun.
Last year, I spent an enormous amount of time fighting the dreaded imported cabbageworm. The white butterflies, the adult form, are attracted to members of the cabbage family. In our family that means kale. The small, whitish butterflies lay yellow, bullet-shaped eggs under the leaves. Within a few weeks, the larva, the disgusting green worms, decimate leaves and stems. They then pupate and more adults emerge so within a growing season there are several generations. Surprisingly, they continue until late fall in my Northern Virginia area. I thought a cold nip in the air would help with a fall crop of kale but not so, butterflies and worms continued to appear after Thanksgiving.

At first, I tried picking the worms off but quickly concluded that: first, it’s gross; and second, it’s easier said than done. It is difficult to pick them a continuous basis especially if you are working full time and raising a family. It seems eggs are always hatching, larvae are always present from very tiny to very large, and the green color of the worm blends in with the green leaves. I know the other recommendation is to use row covers but my kale plants are in pots on the deck or tucked in the landscape, not in rows. I do not have a traditional vegetable garden where there are rows of one crop. I could put the row fabric on top of a bunch of kale but this would look ridiculous. Finally, I resorted to Thuricide®, a liquid form of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), thinking that I would just have to spray once or twice. Bt is a form of bacteria that kills the larvae thus a non-toxic, biological insecticide. However, it got to the point where I felt that all I was doing was spraying instead of growing and eating.

By the end of the year, I was fed up and vowed not to grow kale again. It wasn’t worth it but it did make me wonder, what do farmers do when they grow kale in my area? They would be faced with the same problem. If they used row covers that would be great, I would be willing to buy their kale. But if they used a chemical pesticide, I would want to know.

This spring, the kids wanted me to grow kale again. Of course, they did not know my travails; they did not pick worms off or spray plants. Like the good mom, I planted some in containers and some in the front garden. Can’t wait to try that new battery operated bug zapper!

Alpine Strawberries

 

Close up of Alpine strawberry leaves

Close up of Alpine strawberry leaves

 

It’s Mother’s Day, time to move the seedlings out into the big wide open garden and hope they do well on their own. Cutting the apron strings for my Alpine strawberry (Fragaria vesca) seedlings has been hard though. For months now, I have been coddling them from seed, growing them under lights, hardening them off on the deck, and protecting them from heavy rains. I first read about them last year in Rosalind Creasy’s Edible Landscaping book, published in 2010. Although Rosalind lives in California, these small, fruit bearing plants seemed perfect for a typical suburban home in Northern Virginia. Coincidentally, my colleague in my garden club had just visited Switzerland and shared the packet she bought but it was too late in the season to start them. This year, Renee’s Garden is offering two types, a yellow fruited variety called Heirloom Pineapple and a red fruited variety called Mignonette. I started the Swiss packet and the two varieties from Renee’s Garden months ago, under lights, and surprisingly they germinated well but the seedlings were very small. After the true leaves appeared, I transferred them to small, plastic containers, still under lights. When the days warmed up in April, I put the tub of containers outside, and even then, only during the day time.

Unlike regular strawberries, Alpine strawberries do not produce runners, are not as productive and have smaller fruit. Also known as fraise des bois, these are herbaceous perennials, hardy to my zone 7. They grow to a mound shape, about 8 inches tall, and prefer well drained soil high in organic matter. In my garden, I will give them morning sun and afternoon shade or dappled shade. I know it looks like I have a lot but I have read that birds like the fruit which hang above the plant like beacons – I am sure the devil squirrel will find them too. To deter such nonsense, I will plant them in various places around the garden and on the deck in containers.

As a “have-to-have-it horticulturist,” I am the type who will read about a plant, buy it, and grow it without having actually tasted the fruit but I have read that the Alpine strawberries are even sweeter than grocery strawberries. According to the Renee’s Garden seed packets (the Swiss packet was not in English), the Heirloom Pineapple tastes like “delectable flavor of pineapples and roses” and the Mignonette has “ambrosial woodland flavor.” I am looking forward to this summer!

Alpine strawberry seedlings in plastic tub

Alpine strawberry seedlings in plastic tub

Pak Choi Babies

"Green Fortune" pak choi in container 2013

“Green Fortune” pak choi in container 2013

Last year, I planted pak choi (also known as bok choi or bok choy) in a large, plastic container on my deck. Pak choi is a type of a Chinese cabbage, a member of the brassica or cabbage family. I had never eaten pak choi before but I had a new seed packet of baby pak choi “Green Fortune” from Renee’s Garden, an online seed source for veggies, herbs, and flowers in California. Renee’s Garden has distinctive seed packages: the fronts have beautiful, colorful drawings while the backs have an extra flap of paper to provide more than enough information to start seeds successfully.

Unlike the species which can grow to a foot, “Green Fortune” was bred to remain short, only six inches tall. Thus, it grew well in the container which was about a foot wide and tall. The stems were thick and white; the leaves were light green and as broad as a Chinese soup spoon. I harvested by cutting the outer leaves and was surprised to find that the stems were sweet enough to be eaten raw. The crunch texture was similar to celery. My family enjoyed the leaves and stems in our chicken stir fry dishes and I even tossed some pak choi into our crock pot stews.

Because I successfully added a new vegetable to our family’s repertoire, I decided to plant more pak choi this spring but in the ground. In March, I planted three rows of seeds from the “Green Fortune” package (yes, the seeds were a year old by now) and “heirloom” seeds from Lake Valley Seed Company in Colorado which I must have gotten from a seed swap I attended in February (more on that in a future post!). The Lake Valley Seed package was packed for 2012 so between the two packages I did not expect much. I usually do not have much luck with broadcasting seed and right after I planted three rows, it rained so hard I thought for sure the seeds would be washed away.

However, within a few days, the ground was littered with many green buttons, popping out of the ground. There were too many, too close together but the seedlings were too small to lift and separate – there was no “stem” for my fingers to grab. Fortunately, I facilitate a garden club at work and we meet every other week during lunch in a conference room. The morning of our next meeting, I took my trowel and scooped out a section of soil with seedlings on top and placed the chunk in a plastic strawberry container. I used the clear plastic containers that strawberries are sold in, about six inches long and three inches wide, perfect size for a wedge of soil. For each container I inserted a wedge of soil with seedlings on top, snapped the lid closed, and placed in a plastic bag (the containers had holes and I could ill afford to spill dirt in the conference room). I put six plastic bags in a large brown bag and distributed the bags to my colleagues. They really appreciated receiving pak choi seedlings where all they had to do was just plop the chunk of dirt in their own garden bed when they got home. Later, when the seedlings get larger, we will have to lift and separate each plant to allow more space but giving bags of instant pak choi was just as much fun for me as it was for them!

pak choi seedlings in spring 2014

pak choi seedlings in spring 2014

Reap Benefits of Online Gardening Magazines

Today, magazines are no longer “just” magazines. Many have a parallel existence on the Internet, offering sweepstakes, free downloads of books & handouts, webinars, videos, and even more articles. I used to subscribe to a wide variety of gardening magazines but now I am interested in a few, partly because so much information is on the Internet now and partly because my interests have narrowed from everything that grows to everything that grows that I can eat. Fortunately, my Fairfax County Public Library allows me to check out back issues of magazines (free magazines!) and reading a spring 2013 issue in 2014 is still “in season.” Many times, themes are repeated with each season: spring issues encourage you to start plants from seeds; summer issues tell you how to prevent blossom rot on your tomatoes. The advantages of checking out gardening magazines from the library are: 1) its free, and 2) they are thin enough to tuck into the purse on the way to your son’s soccer game!

At home though, on my computer, I explore the parallel universe of my favorite gardening magazines. For example, Horticulture magazine, http://www.hortmag.com, offers webinars that are presented during the work week but if you register and cannot make it, you can still watch the webinar whenever it is convenient for you. This past month I was able to listen to Jessica Walliser’s Grow Organic: Making the Transition Smart Gardening Workshop for one hour in the afternoon but missed Nicholas Staddon’s Urban Farming. Because I had registered though, I can listen whenever I have a quiet hour. I am looking forward to his Heaven Scent presentation this month and I just registered for Allan Armitage’s Greatest Perennials and Annuals workshop. Hortmag also has sweepstakes, which I love to enter, succinct articles about new plants, free downloads, blogs, cute gardening tricks, videos, and more. Vegetable Gardening, http://www.vegetablegardener.com, has feature articles on edibles, recipes, videos, new books, and do-it-yourself projects. Its cousin, Fine Gardening, http://www.finegardening.com, has the pronunciation guide allowing you to hear how Latin plant names sound, free downloads, extra articles, featured plants, forums, videos, and blogs. Organic Gardening, http://www.organicgardening.com, has articles, blogs, podcasts, videos, sweepstakes as well as links to other companies’ sweepstakes (okay, I am a sucker for winning free things), recipes, and free downloads. With so much information on the Internet, it is easy to learn about gardening any time of the day.

The White House Spring Garden Tour, 2014

Rose Garden

Rose Garden

South Lawn toward the Ellipse

South Lawn toward the Ellipse

South Lawn looking behind at White House

South Lawn looking behind at White House

My ticket for the 2014 White House Spring Garden Tour was for noon but I got in line at 11:40 a.m. and there were yards of people ahead of me. It took about an hour to actually gain entrance but it was such a beautiful day, I did not mind. Visitors were from different countries; I could hear different languages. People were dressed in Sunday best or Saturday jeans, which surprised me because I thought of it as a walking tour so I wore tennis shoes. I know the White House Garden Tour, as is the White House itself, is a tourist attraction but I thought it was great that the natural beauty of the gardens is what brought different folks together. Gardens can be a common denominator, talking about gardening identifies commonalities and builds relationships.

After getting through the security check point, we entered the South Lawn area and proceeded toward the back of the White House. We received a souvenir brochure with a message from Michelle Obama, courtesy of the White House Historical Association. People immediately began to take photos of their families against the backdrop of the White House (ah!, that is why they are dressed up!) Along the perimeter of the lawn and gardens were photos of past First Families, either planting a tree or with their families in the garden. I took several shots of the view away from the White House, towards the Ellipse, with a fountain in the middle. The South Lawn is very green and has a very cooling atmosphere. It is surprisingly large but feels enclosed, private, and quiet. The large trees contribute to the peace and the awe – they capture the sense of time and history. Since the 1870s, most Presidents have planted a tree while in office and according to the brochure the oldest surviving trees are the two Southern Magnolias planted by Andrew Jackson in 1830. I walked past the formal Jacqueline Kennedy Garden and the Rose Garden, which had a podium similar to the one the President uses. I took a few shots of the Rose Garden, the putting green, and the playground. We were not allowed to view the Children’s Garden which was created by Lady Bird Johnson but I could see a glimpse of the tennis courts through the trees.  The crowds were directed toward the Kitchen Garden, which is actually quite a distance from the White House.

First created in 2009, the White House Kitchen Garden has over 30 raised beds of vegetables and herbs, including one bed devoted to plants raised from seeds of Thomas Jefferson’s plants from the Monticello gardens. I could see lettuce, cauliflower, mizuma, garlic, kale, mustard, carrots, peas, and arugula. Only a few weeks ago, Michelle Obama invited school kids to help with the sixth annual planting of the Kitchen Garden, and this time they planted the first White House Pollinator Garden. These beds will have flowering non edible plants to encourage pollinators such as bees and butterflies. Because the plants were just planted they were a little too small to see but the signage was lovely. In fact, all the vegetables and herbs were identified with the same type of signage and all the rows were clean and weed free. Behind me a lady said the vegetables were so beautiful and large, they were ready to be harvested but staff were probably waiting until the Spring Garden Tour was over in order to cut the leaves. I am sure someone is going to enjoy fresh produce next week!

White House Kitchen Garden

White House Kitchen Garden

White House Kitchen Garden

Sign for Lettuce

Pollinator Garden

Pollinator Garden

White House Spring Garden Tour

whitehousegardentourapril2014 015  I’m going to the White House!! I was not planning this but my agency received several tickets and I was asked if I was interested. The White House opens its gardens to the public twice a year, spring and fall. On April 26 & 27, visitors will be able to see the Jacqueline Kennedy Garden, the Rose Garden, the Kitchen Garden, and the South Lawn. The National Park Service distributes timed tickets to this free event on a first come, first served basis. The best part is that you can bring your camera! Visitors can use the hashtag #WHGarden to share photos; some of which may be featured on WhiteHouse.gov.

Stay tuned!

Do You Prefer It Cold or Hot?

Heat loving peppers

Heat loving peppers

One of my first lessons in growing veggies is to learn the plant’s preference for temperature. To keep it simple, there are cool season and warm season crops. Getting to know what the plant prefers determines when to buy/plant, what to buy/plant, where to buy/plant, and when to harvest/eat! In the mid-Atlantic area, typical cool season plants are anything in the cabbage family (cabbage, broccoli, collard, Brussels sprout), lettuce, pea, kale, chervil, dill, cilantro, leek, scallions, radish, spinach, arugula, beet, pak choi or bok choy, carrot, mustard, parsnip, turnip, and Swiss chard. Some can carry on during the summer such as spring onions and Swiss chard; others “bolt” as soon as it warms up in May/June. For example, cilantro will “bolt,” that is, flower and go to seed, as it warms which is good if you want the seed but bad if you want to harvest the leaves. When the plant bolts and goes into flower/seed production stage, the leaves tend to taste bitter.

Most people associate the warm season edibles with summer itself, fresh tomato and basil, eggplant, pepper, corn, summer/winter squash, zucchini, melon, watermelon, cucumber, okra, and pumpkins.

The idea is to plant the cool season plants/seeds in mid-March – beginning of April and the warm season plants/seeds in early May – end of May in my zone 7 area. Several good ways to figure this out:
Read the seed packet or label
Read seed catalogs
Research on the internet
Read local gardening books
Visit garden nurseries and ask knowledgeable staff.

Most catalogs put their plant/seed offerings in alphabetical order but really it would be useful if you read them in order of the calendar year. My 2014 Botanical Interests catalog has “warm season” or “cool season” to the right of each plant type, making it very easy to identify. I have often thought that it would be better to cut out the pages of the plants I was interested in and re organize them to place them in order of season, not alphabetical, as a way of determining which to should start first. Then I discovered that the Botanical Interests web site allows you to sort the veggies by warm or cool season – very smart of them!

The three books I found most useful books for determining a time table are:
The Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardener’s Handbook by Ron Kujawski & Jennifer Kujawski (Storey Publishing, 2010)
The Timber Press Guide to Vegetable Gardening in the Southeast by Ira Wallace (of Southern Exposure Seed Exchange (Timber Press, 2013)
The Year Round Vegetable Gardener by Niki Jabbour (Storey Publishing, 2011)

Weeding and The Pursuit of Happiness

2014AprilMeadowlark 011

I spend a lot of time weeding in March and April, partly because I have to clean up from the fall (we never do get all those maple leaves off the garden beds) and partly because the spring warmth and rain encourages weeds to take over like crazy. You have to get them out of the garden bed before the perennials wake up or you just have a tangled mess.
The best time to pull weeds is when the soil is moist, after rain or in the morning. It is an easy thing to fit in for an hour at a time if you have all of your supplies ready. I wear old garden clothes and tennis shoes and literally pull the weeds with my hands. I love my Foxgloves gloves because they fit like a surgeon’s glove; they make it very easy to get down to the base of the weed and pull it out. Afterwards, I can rinse the dirt off with water from the hose, put them in the washing machine, and hang up to dry. I discard the weeds in the large cardboard boxes in which reams of copying paper are sold; we always have plenty at the office. These boxes and lids are very useful for lots of gardening chores and it is best to get the ones with the cut out openings at each end for handles. When the box is full, I dump the weeds in to my Fiskars Kangaroo, a very large collapsible gardening bag – much larger than a kitchen trash can. Lined with large plastic bags clipped on with binder clips, the Kangaroo is really useful for large cuttings of plants or large amounts of plants.
I also use an old kneeling pad but this year, my daughter gave me a new one for my birthday. They are surprisingly expensive but in the spring you can get them at a much reduced price at dollar stores. For dandelions, I use a fish tail weeder. Mine is so old it is bent but still useful for digging them out the long tap roots of dandelions one. Dandelions in the grass don’t bother me but this past spring we had so many large dandelions in the garden beds I used another Fiskar product, Uproot Weed and Root Remover. All you have to do is position the four claws over the dandelion, step down on a lever and pull it out. There is a part of the handle that makes the claw retract so it lets the dandelion loose and it drops to the ground. You don’t have to kneel or bend. I let my son use it on all the dandelions in the garden beds and he loves it (Hint: get a cool tool and you have helpers!!).
The good thing about weeding is that it is a no brainer activity. It lets your mind wander about life and the pursuit of happiness, more plants, more garden beds, and yes, more garden tools. So if you get interrupted three times by your kids, you are okay, you haven’t accidently whacked a new shrub or pulled out the radish instead of the hairy bittercress.